Magnet

Hello Lucy,
How old is the current battery? I ask since there maybe a current drain on it, rather than it just being well passed it’s best. If it’s over 5 year old, it would be wise to renew it anyway.
What brand are you intending buying? Important, since these cars are certainly battery-efficiency sensitive.
To ensure you don’t lose any codes then you would be wise to invest in a a cheap saver device, which acts to keep 12v to the battery cables when they are disconnected.
Finally, you will need to code the new battery to the car, otherwise it could be seriously damaged by being overcharged.
A forum search will come up with the advice you need.
All in all, a DIY replacement may not be your best option in your case.
Regards,
Gareth.

Hello Cair,
Always made up as a complete new pipe by your local garage, using the existing one as a pattern.
Regards,
Gareth.

You will certainly not polish this out, and it is the result of strong chemicals being blasted onto surfaces with high pressure lances. Goodness knows what effect it has had on the soft top fabric. Look out for milky patches in the paint lacquer.
It’s the high cost penalty for using low cost car washers.
Regards,
Gareth.

Apologies for the contra opinion Cliff, but I think this 12 year old car would have been supplied with the owner’s cased handbook pack. Post 2020?? models seem to be accessed on-line, but I’m unsure when this change was actually implemented.
Way forward Philip:- contact seller, but many ex lease etc. vehicles seem to suffer from a lack of a retained owner pack. 
Well worth searching EBay, and I’d be surprised if you don’t come up with what should have been there.
Please let us know how you get on.
Regards,
Gareth.
p.s. I take it you have a print out for the computerised service history -? 
 

No shame intended Paul. Just respect for your wallet, and appreciation of buying quality parts at competitive prices. 
Recommendations:- have a look at Brembo from reputable EBay sellers. I’ve always had good service from Parts in Motion - if it helps. 
Regards,
Gareth. 

Thanks, 
Was it serviced at c18K or 18 month intervals? 
Sounds like you would be wise to give/get it serviced ASAP and include oil changes and all filters. 
You will need to check whether you engine is running on a belt or chain.

Hello Paul,
If it were mine, I would be listing it on EBay with a starting price of the scrap value you have been offered ( or can seek).Yes, you maybe messed around a bit, but someone might save it, and there little to lose except a week of time.
Regards,
Gareth. 

Hello Jill,
If it were mine, I’d shop around for non-Audi ones, many of which have ‘cut lines’ to allow trimming to fit (if necessary). Your card will very much appreciate you staying away from Audi.
Regards,
Gareth. 

You are wise not to trust EBay compatibility charts John - even they state that!
Part no. searches? Have you searched recent posts on here where other members have asked similar questions regarding where to find part numbers? 
The solution is there - to save repeating. 
Re. Flywheel. You may find they are not available as aftermarket parts, meaning you might have to go to Audi and seriously offend your wallet.
Let’s hope not in your case.
I would only recommend LUK/Sachs clutch components. 
Please let us know how you get on.
Regards,
Gareth. 

Jumping in Rabin. No point in over thinking this. The benefits of using ‘super’ petrol are debatable for bread and butter cars. 
For what it’s worth, our 176k miles A3 has consumed supermarket fuel until about 10 years ago when its annual mileage was higher then normal. Over the last 10 years it’s generally run on Texaco ordinary, simply because it’s only 1p/litre dearer than Tesco 200 yds down the road - and I admit to be mistakenly brand conscious!
Regards,
Gareth. 

And dare I say, the originals don’t look to be the best quality. 

Hello Ants,
Apologies for the delay in responding. 
Personally, I don’t like warranties, particularly those sold by salesmen on a ‘only £x a month’ basis.
Possibly pessimistic, but I wouldn’t enter into any contract without copy of the warranty to be able to judge the all important exclusions - of which there are likely to be many.
If you are happy with those, then fine.
Service plans:- if it were mine, I would just put that money away per month, and get the car serviced at a trusted independent. 
Main dealer service plans can result in say ‘ your brake pads and discs need renewing’ and that will cost you £x hundreds of pounds’ and you could well be tied into it. 
What is your anticipated annual mileage Ants? 
Regards,
Gareth. 

Or just buy 5litres Quantum Longlife 3 which is VAG’s own brand. I never extend oil changes out to c18k or 18 months, but change it annually if you do an average mileage. 
Quantum is available from a number of reputable EBay sellers. 5 litres will allow you to have enough ‘top up’ oil for hopefully a couple of years.
Regards,
Gareth. 

Welcome Adam,
The light could be as a result of numerous components, so it’s simply a guessing game prior to a diagnostic assessment. 
Re. Outstanding recall:- If it were mine, I would not (in caps) pursue this. It is possible that it was as a result of emission recalls, and this forum has been dotted with horror stories in the past, following actioning these recalls. 
Your car, but a definite DON’T DO IT from me. 
Please let us know how you get on with the diagnostic check.
Regards,
Gareth.
p.s. Did you buy this from a dealer? If so, you should have redress, but I would notify them by e-mail, otherwise they may wriggle out of it, on the basis that you have been fiddling with it without reference to them.

Hello Stephen,
Yes, best to avoid Halfords if you have respect for your wallet - also main dealers.
Of possible help:- 
I now avoid Varta/Bosch due to recent dissatisfactions.
I currently favour Exide ( their Premium grade for  those without stop/start.
Have a look at Tayna Batteries website and tap in your registration number, and that should point you to the correct battery - beware, Tayna will likely to point you towards their own brand ( sorry cannot recall the brand name at the moment) but I would simply stick with Exide.
Also have a look at Parts in Motion website - they now do Exide.
For both these companies, look on EBay before committing since they are generally listed as free shipping on there. 
Double check your current battery spec. for Ah and CCA figures and ensure the recommended replacement meets/exceeds these figure. Also check dimensions, but do not ( in caps)use a metal tape for fear of touching terminals! 
New battery will need coding.
Regards,
Gareth. 

Hello Steve,
There are normally two metal clips fairly near the top of the cover ‘plate’, and these clip over metal pieces on the seat back. Glue has been some bodge for broken clips etc. 
Regards, 
Gareth.

Sticky caliper piston/s sounds more probable. 

Thanks Rit,
Motorway miles will be easy on brake pad wear, and unless you are ‘last seconds on the brakes’ then standard pads should do you fine. In case it helps, I’ve been using Brembo of late on family cars to good effect. Same with discs if needed. I buy mine via. EBay at competitive prices from reputable suppliers. You could try Parts in Motion for example. 
If you want something a bit more ‘performancy’ then you could choose from the EBC product range. 
Please let us know how you get on.
Kind regards,
Gareth. 

Hello Michael,
You seem to have posted your plea and not returned to view the responses. 
We trust you are OK. 

The only way you are going to know is to get it on a lift and see what the behind- grille access is like when the front undertrays are removed. 

Hello Angela,
Do an Adblue search on here and you will find all the potential issues, but bad news travels fast. 

I believe so Greg - something like 5 degrees. 
I do understand your frustration if that is so. Our non-Audi does the same, and you do need to clear them of mist. 
The 2006 A3 appears to demise them at any temperature, but latest one - probably not, but I could be wrong. 
Kind regards,
Gareth. 

Hello Nick,
Handbooks cover all options, but the only way to establish what yours has and hasn’t got is to obtain a build record for it. 
A visit ( rather than e-mail) to your local dealers Parts Dept. might well come up with that if you talk nicely with them. 
Kind regards,
Gareth. 
p.s. Take your V5 with you as proof of ownership in case needed. 

Hello Simon,
Not sure if you have asked the question about heavier springs of Parts in Motion - ideally over the phone-? 
 My feeling is the answer will be no, and it’s likely the estate springs will be heavier than the saloon anyway, but ‘heavier than heavy’ ?? 
Might be worth looking at LLL Parts website to see if there are varying part numbers. 
Perhaps you could keep us updated on both avenues. 
Kind regards,
Gareth.

Welcome Paul and thanks for joining. 
No doubt you would know, or be able to find out if all three are identical or not.
If they are identical - option:- 
Buy one from Audi, then buy 2 matched tensile strength ones from on-line suppliers such Kay’s. 
Appreciating that buying from Audi will not be the most economical route, it will be the safest, and factoring in the labour-free DIY replacing, it’s always better to ‘invest’ in the known correct parts. 
Kind regards,
Gareth.