cliffcoggin

Please let us know the outcome.

A dying battery is a common cause of stop/start failure, so get the battery professionally tested. If a new battery is needed ensure it is coded to the car.

Congratulations.

The greater the offset, the more the rim is moved away from the hub, so you need more offset to clear the leg.

Tyres that rub on the suspension leg will certainly cause problems, to put it mildly. While spacers might solve the problem they are bodge. You would do better to buy wheels with a greater offset.

Was the above response helpful to you Suheel? I know you have seen it and the responses to your other question.

Fair enough as long as it was coded.

I had the same last week with my car at a main dealer. I was told the battery was due to be changed, yet it is only five months old and perfectly good. I was told two tyres needed to be changed, yet a local tyre shop that I know to be sound said they were more than legal and refused to sell me new tyres. Warnings of significant wear are all well and good, but to pervert those advance warnings to a need for immediate action is deception, to put it mildly, but typical of main dealers.

Code readers may point in the right direction, but they should not be taken literally. Interpretation based on experience is always needed. How old is the battery? A defective battery can cause unrelated codes and error messages.

I bet it took longer to wash the car than it did to fix the MMI.

Zac. It is not advisable to buy secondhand gearboxes for a car of that age, unless direct from a transmission reconditioning company. They will all be worn or damaged no matter what the seller tells you. Before buying any more gearboxes I suggest you get the car onto a diagnostic code reader to find out what is wrong. It may be that repair of the existing box will be cheaper than a reconditioned one or the purchase of another car.

That's remarkably cheap for a garage fitted wiper motor. I suggest you give them the job and save yourself the hassle of broken boot liner clips.

There's a fair chance one or more of the air duct flaps are not working. Motor or linkage failure is common.

It needs to be done using a decent code reader & diagnostic machine. If you don't have access to one, most garages and battery suppliers will be able to do it for you.

Don. If you can smell the coolant it must be escaping somewhere, though at a mere 1500 miles per year the loss may be so small that you don't get a warning before the garage tops it up during annual servicing.

Thanks for the information which suggests that the old caliper was indeed at fault, even if nothing was visibly wrong with it.

The more you drive a slipping clutch, the worse it will get, causing high fuel consumption, and eventually the car will not move. Do you have good breakdown insurance?

The stop/start system may be present in your car, but if the battery is defective it won't work. As Steve said, find out if the system is installed. Whatever type of battery you fit ensure it is coded to the car.

That makes sense, and fits Audi's push for subscription services.

An impossible question to answer because you have not revealed the brand in question.

Thanks Scott. That's useful information.

The vendor has not returned to the forum for three years so it may pay you to direct message him.

Mark. Sorry to disappoint you but the days of Audi being a prestige brand have gone. It is now just another run of the mill manufacturer cutting costs at every opportunity to retain market share in a world where Chinese manufacturers are making huge inroads as a result of their better specifications and lower prices. Regarding tyre pressures, they are dictated by car weight, suspension resilience, power output, and top speed, not size, so it isn't surprising they differ from the Ford.

In general, hybrids will try to maintain a high state of charge so that electric reserve power is always available, however many other factors can influence when or if the electric motor will run. Perhaps yours is behaving normally, and you had not previously met the conditions for petrol to override electric.

Andy. In what sense do you mean "worth doing"? If you are looking to recover your financial investment by selling the car at a profit after restoration, that is unlikely so it is not worth doing. On the other hand if you love the car, have endless funds in the bank, and will enjoy the resulting transformation, then it is very worth doing.