cliffcoggin

Look though this forum and you will find dozens of owners facing the same problem. Few have had a satisfacory resolution.

Sounds like the gas expansion valve is not opening. I don't know how to test or repair it so you may need to visit an aircon specialist.

I believe DAB relies on a separate aerial to FM, so check its connections as a first step.

All's well that ends well, even if a mystery remains.

I am not convinced. The purpose of illuminating every warning lamp initially is to test them and ensure they are working. (It is known in industry as a lamp test function.) If a genuine oil pressure was ever detected how would you know it if the lamp does not work?

Good luck Davie. You deserve it for the effort you put into investigating the fault. I seem to recall reading that crank angle sensor is a common fault.

Do please let us know the outcome.

Did you get to the source of the fault Davie?

How did the new motor work out David?

If it had blown off as a result of excess crankcase pressure there will oil be sprayed around the engine bay. Otherwise...

Whoever does that clearly values his wallet more than his life. I nominate him for a Darwin award.

Bear in mind that remapping might be counted as a modification as far as your insurer is concerned, particularly if the power is increased, so unless you declare the modification the policy may be invalid.

That appears to be a blanking plate to cover the hole where headlamp wipers would be if they were fitted.

Do you have an update for us Sian?

Duplicate topic.

Thanks for letting us know.

Thanks for letting us know.

Nothing in life is free Steve, least of all engine power. Extracting more power will mean increased wear that will lead to lower reliability. It's a trade off that only you can decide its worth for your circumstances and wealth.

The shells look pretty poor and in need of renewal, but the big end journals are unmarked. Nevertheless it would be worth measuring the journal diameters with a micrometer at several points to ensure they are still round and parallel. The chances are that the crankshaft main bearings are in similar condition so they need to be inspected. The oil pump has a mark where the rotor has scuffed it. Whether that is enough to cause a pressure reduction depends on how much end float the rotor has. You would need to measure that end float and compare it to specification to be certain. Check also the amount of side play in the pump bearings while it is open, and look at its drive shaft to ensure it is undamaged. Given the state of the bearings and the low compression you ought to pull the pistons out and inspect the bores and the rings. There's no point repairing the bottom of the engine without fixing the top as well. If all the above is in need of repair you are heading for a very expensive repair which will cost several times the value of the car. That is fine if money is no object, just as long as you are prepared for it.

I agree with your logic that a temperature sensor fault is the likely cause of the problem, probably the ambient or external sensor. Unfortunately I have no idea where it is.

No signal means an aerial fault or the car is in a dead zone. Check the connections from antenna to back of radio.

Is there supposed to be question included?

Thanks for letting us know.

I can't imagine how the chain could jump a tooth in a stationary engine, but if that has happened the last thing you should do now is to turn the engine over else it could be damaged further.

Thanks M. Steam or water vapour is inevitable because water is one of the combustion products of any engine burning a hydrocarbon. It will be even more pronounced from a hydrogen fuelled engine if such things come to pass.