cliffcoggin

Chris. Please clarify how much damage there is to the radiator. At one point you mentioned minor damage; elsewhere you mentioned it was caved in and had lost all its coolant. The ticking noise could be the fan contacting damaged radiator fins. I assume "the lid of the overflow tank"which you left off, is the pressure cap of the expansion tank. To run without it will allow the coolant to boil away because the system can not develope the necessary pressure.

Congratulations.

That's because you used a different email address previously.

There are two types of foam structure: open cell which is permeable, and closed cell which is impermeable. I assume the lamp unit seal is or should be closed cell. Don't be surprised if the electrical fault is permanent.

Glad you got it sorted Dan. Such a shame you felt the need for snide comments about those who put in time and effort trying to help you. I'll bear that in mind for next time.

Who knows? Water can create electrical faults that are invisible.

Sorry Tomas. I will not download anything from untrusted sources. Have you searched the forum for questions similar to yours?

Better start saving for a new light unit, or try your luck at https://www.thepartfinder.co.uk/

Angela. Let me emphasise Gareth's comments. The crankshaft oil seal may be a small and relatively cheap component, but it requires an enormous amount of work to get access to it. That's why the job costs so much to have done. At nearly a quarter of a million miles I'd say the seal has done remarkably well to survive this long, and it would be unreasonable to expect more from it. I also suspect it won't be long until other major components start to fail leading to more repair bills. I reckon its time to assess whether it's economically viable to keep the car running. Do so if you really love the car, but don't expect it to be cheaper than buying something newer.

Thanks Greg.

There is bound to be more resistance from a wheel that is moving a differential than a wheel that is not, but that's more a matter of greater inertia than greater friction. From a purely logical point of view, if the problem started after work was done on the brakes, then surely that work was the cause of the problem. If we assume the standard parts are correctly sized and correctly fitted, that only leaves the non-standard parts i.e. the hoses. I know I dismissed them earlier but I now wonder if they are kinking or twisting as the suspension moves up and down. It seems unlikely but I am clutching at straws and don't know what else to suggest.

Why add to this old topic Renato, when you already have an open topic on the matter? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27161-rear-suspension/#comment-106442 I am locking this topic now.

I would have thought so. Nevertheless the only causes of friction that occur to me are the bearings and the pads. Perhaps we can get some insight from others.

You say the discs are hot, but how hot is hot? Do you have a temperature measurement? I can't imagine that smaller bore hoses would cause this. It is possible the bearings are too tight. Have they been changed? Perhaps the handbrake is not releasing fully. That would cause rubbing of the rear pads, assuming the handbrake is on the rear wheels.

What is a HPFP? It's not an abbreviation I am familiar with.

Colin. You mentioned long motorway journeys so I assume the pads have bedded in by now. Is it definitely the discs that are the source of the heat, rather than the wheel bearings? If so, the pads must be rubbing, which points directly at the changes you have made to the braking system. Are the new parts standard Audi components? Thicker than normal pads and discs are a possible explanation, but I fancy it is more likely the pistons are not retracting as they should.

I think it very unlikely that the same fuse serves the both the non-essential radio and the essential canbus system. You need to refer to a wiring diagram.

David. You have nothing to lose by trying to clean the connector with fine abrasive and contact cleaner fluid, because the alternative is a new light unit. Make sure you also cure the water ingress or it will happen again.

I'm afaid I can not change it, so I'll pass it to the forum adminstrator who I am sure can do so.

Congratulations. Want a job?

As an example of main dealer fraud, though not specifically Audi, see this https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9LyzCzI1xw

Under no circumstances should you buy a warranty extension from a car dealer. They are all legalised robbery.

Search the recent history of this forum and you will find many examples. Please let us know how you get on.

Only you can say if you can or should attempt a repair. It depends how good your welding is, whether you have a suitable jig to align all the parts, and how important it is to get a 31 year old car roadworthy again. Economically it makes no sense at all, but if the car has sentimental value to you then the size of your bank balance is the only limiting factor.

Sadly Audi main dealers will disappoint you, both in terms of customer service and cost. Others here would use less temperate descriptions of them. Hint, hint.