cliffcoggin

As Gareth mentioned, we do not have access to the vehicle, so we can only give you likely diagnoses based on experience. If you choose to believe other "points of view" you can find opinions to suit your preferences. You mentioned some codes but did not expand on it. Was it a decent code reader or a Chinese cheapy?

My impression, unsupported by any real knowledge, is that few cars are sold via these forums. You would be better off advertising in Autotrader and the like.

I like your three times rule Gareth. I wish I had known that when I was still active with spanners.

Maria. I have merged your three identical topics into one. A little restraint would be appreciated. Please name the price you are asking.

I know of none unfortunately.

A worthy project Michael, and I hope we can help. I suggest you also find classic car clubs which may lead you to sources of parts and specialised restorers and reconditioners.

Ah, a fleet car. There's the answer. You were sold a lemon unfortunately, and I imagine any guarantee has long since expired. Would the finance company take any responsibility do you think?

I meant knocking sounds not collisions. I also asked about oil leaks or excessive consumption. Given your careful driving style I guess the engine was thrashed by the previous owner, because with good maintenance and gentle driving the engine should easily last 150000 miles.

Clutch wear does not happen suddenly so it's most likely air in the hydraulic system. Top up the fluid if it is low and it might restore enough action to get you home. If extra fluid makes no difference it would risk gearbox damage to drive it.

Try car breakers which are often online nowadays.

I don't see that could be possible without ripping off the wheels and the cross member that is below the engine. What about knocks and leaks before the pothole incident?

Abigail. Crankshafts don't just "go", whatever that means, instantaneously. They wear slowly and give plenty of warning knocking sounds as they do. The same applies to the bearings the shaft runs in. The oil leak could be from the engine or the gearbox. Either way they will have to be removed for a very expensive repair. The oil leak is probably why the pressure has dropped, though it could also be an indication of bearing wear. Dual mass flywheels do indeed disintegrate and make a hell of a racket. That would also need engine removal to fix. A new starter and alternator is odd, unless the car is a mild hybrid which have a poor reputation, but I don't see this being related to the oil leak or damage to the crankshaft or the pothole crash. Taken together, the symptoms are of an old poorly maintained engine, yet it is only seven years old. How many miles has it done? Are you a conservative or an enthusiastic driver? Were there any knocking sounds before the breakdown? Were there any oils leaks before the breakdown? I think you need to have the engine removed and stripped for a proper inspection. Be prepared for some bad news.

Any comment or reply Shahadur?

Thanks for letting us know. Evidently you had two distinct faults: one being the Ad-blue sensor, the other being the dying battery. I could go on about batteries, but I'd sound like an audio on repeat which must be boring for regular readers here.

Glad to read it Joseph. A shame it has taken three months to resolve, but it demonstrates something I have written of repeatedly, which is how difficult it is to convince people that their batteries are defective and that the replacements need to be coded in cars of the last two decades.

The engine problem is unrelated a broken DMF, but would make the knock more noticable by its erratic running.

That the glass moves front to back suggests a window channel is loose or broken.

So it is. Sorry I missed it.

Beware of air suspension problems. The bags and level sensors seem to be fragile going by what I read on these forums.

It's true that water will dribble below the car if the air condioning is running. It's condensate and perfectly normal. What seems to be in doubt here is whether the liquid is coolant or condensate. If the coolant level has not dropped in the reservoir than it's likely to be condensate. If you want to have it professionally checked search for independant VAG specialists in your area. We usually recommend independants over franchised dealers for several reasons.

Lots of details and pictures Jay, but I could not see a price.

Can you also feel the click with your foot?

It's always extremely difficult to pursuade people that a battery can be defective when it still cranks the engine normally, and has a voltage of 12.4 at rest.

The knocking sound could be the DMF (dual mass flywheel) if you have one. They have a habit of disintegrating.

I guess the clowns at Halfords/Kwikfit didn't test it properly. I shall not be recommending them again.