cliffcoggin

It will depend how thick the wall thickness of the new hose is. Vacuum hoses have either more rigid reinforcement than pressure hoses, or thicker walls, because it is easier for a hose to resist internal pressure than external pressure.

Don't trouble yourself about the video, your words are good enough. After that I am at a loss so let's hope somebody will have a suggestion.

Sorry to teach granny to suck eggs, but are you certain that all the indicators are working? I read of a similar problem recently where one of the mirror or wing indicator lamps had failed yet the front and rear main indicators were still working.

Daniel. I can not answer your question, but surely a two year old car is still under guarantee from the dealer who sold it to you.

I am being "testy" as you call it because the forum is being plagued by people like yourself who pose questions and never bother to look at the replies that others have spent time and effort on. If your problem was important enough to spend time composing your questions, surely it is worth a little more time to read and aknowledge their replies? Is that really too much to expect? If nothing else, the matter is one of good manners.

You should not need to be brutal with the bonnet or even slam it hard. If it can not be secured by lowering gently then pressing above the latch, it needs adjustment to the latch.

I would not spend money on a new motor without testing the fuse first. I am surprised the fuse is not shown in the handbook. Look at the underside of the fusebox cover. You may find some information there.

It may be a poor connection at the bulb or a plug. It would be worth having a look before spending money on new lights.

No, your key will not fit another lock barrel. Furthermore if you change one lock barrel you will need to change all the others (such as doors and boot) if you want to operate them all with a single key. On the other hand it may be possible to fit your old barrel into a new switch. It is not something I have done so I am unsure. Perhaps others here can advise.

You didn't even look? It seems that two people wasted their time answering your questions.

It could be either. Take the tension off the belt and rattle the pulleys to discover which is loose. The AC fault may not be related. By the way, you have posted two previous topics about odd noises from your car without letting us know the outcome. How about responding to the replies you received, or at least aknowledging that you have read them.

Kevin. I imagine the market for such an old car is very small, unless it has some significant history such as a famous owner or the winning of a rally for examples. That two traders are uninterested seems to confirm its lack of appeal, so Ebay is the only thing I can suggest that will reach a wide market, but be prepared for a nasty shock at how little money you will get for it there.

Gordon. Just to add, even if the wheels were balanced when the tyres were fitted, pot holes and kerb climbing can dislodge the weights. If balancing does not solve the problem we need to investigate elsewhere. Although I had a 2 litre diesel A3 2007 until three years ago I don't really remember what the fuel consumption was. I recall it was typical for its type and not unduly thirsty, but beyond that I do not know. In any case a car's consumption always depends on how it is driven and on what roads.

Gordon. The most likely cause is the wheels being unbalanced. Get this checked at a tyre shop before looking for other causes.

Why?

I imagine it is the same bonnet as the hybrid, but without the insulation. It's cheaper to make one bonnet that fits both models than it is to make two different ones.

This bizarre tale is becoming more and more convoluted and confusing, so shall we start again? How about you tell us what the symptoms of the problem are, rather than making false assumptions about the clutch and the need for a donor car. We can then perhaps home in on where the fault is located, and where to spend money wisely. And please, no more pictures of shiney bits of metal. They add nothing to the narrative.

I had a couple of Ohme Home Pro units for a while, but the IP rating did not concern me as I had them fitted inside a garage. I had to get them removed under guarantee for a couple of reasons. Firstly they rely on a mobile phone signal for scheduled charging, a signal that was too weak inside the garage with the door closed for them to work reliably. The second reason was my particular car model that I belatedly found was notorious for going to sleep and ignoring any wake up calls. That's why I have reverted to a portable dumb charge unit, albeit one with a built in delay timer so that I can use cheap overnight electricity.

Paul. It all hinges on the rating of your charge unit which you have not mentioned. That is what controls the power delivery. There should be label on it that tells you what the rating is. If it is rated for only 3 kW, then 3kW is all that can be extracted from it no matter what other equipment you install. If that charge unit is capable of delivering 7kW, then yes you could get 7kW charging if you also get an electrician to install a suitably rated cable from the fuseboard to to the outside wall, and install a suitably rated MCB in the fuseboard. However it does not end there. I have only a limited knowledge of electrical regulations so you will almost certainly find that a variety of earth and neutral leakage detectors and other equipment are required. The long and the short of the matter is that you need to consult an electrician in order to achieve 7 kW charging.

Paul. As you know, IP55 is inadequate for full weather protection, IP65 would be necessary for that. However a simple canopy over the unit that keeps the rain off yet allows good ventilation should be enough. My main concern is your expectation of drawing 7kW of power from ordinary domestic wiring. That is far too much and would trip the breaker instantly. The maximum load a normal 2.5 mm ring main can supply is 3kW, and even that is only sustainable for a short time. 3kW continuously for several hours may well overheat the wiring unless it is in top notch condition. There have been many instances of such loads melting the plug and coming close to igniting. Having said that, your charge unit likely is only rated for 3kW anyway so there is no chance of getting more out of it, however I would still be concerned about the heat generation. I have my own charge unit turned down to 10 Amps (2.3 kW) specifically to avoid this problem. Consequently my plug is warm but not hot after 8 hours charging. As an extra precaution I have a temperature indicting sticker on it that will show if it ever reaches 80 degrees.

It sounds like a worn bearing. Slacken the belt and feel for loose bearings on the alternator, idler pulley, and everything else the belt comes into contact with.

I do hope not. Such agreements violate the old principle of " justice should not only be done, it should be seen to be done".

Shelley. Now that the matter has been settled please let us know the identity of the dealer who caused so much grief.

In the absence of a service history everything becomes suspect, from battery to ECU to damaged wiring. I suggest you get it tested professionally, because we could be here for weeks trying to locate the problem with endless questions before coming up with a solution.

O dear indeed. Welding a spline bit into the socket head is the only option I can think of, short of mounting the car onto a giant milling machine and cutting the bolt out with a carbide tool. The high temperature involved in welding may help break the thread loose.