cliffcoggin

You may well be right for all I know. My point was more that if the master cylinder seals are perished then the slave cylinder seals will also be in poor condition and liable to let go in the near future, so it makes sense to my mind to do both at the same time. I have always believed that if you do a job properly, you only do it once; whereas if you do a job poorly it will have to be done again. Anyway that's a decision for Mohame to make. We have presented him with two options to choose from, both equally valid for different reasons.

I think we can eliminate front tyre balance. That still leaves rear tyre balance, loose wheel nuts and a host of other possibilities. What is the engine speed when the vibration occurs in 5th gear? What happens when you drive the car in 4th gear at that same engine speed? On reflection I re-read the question and realised you have just bought the car from a dealer, so my response changes to take the thing back and let him resolve the problem free of charge.

I suggest you renew both the master cylinder and the slave cylinder. It may be that only one is defective at the moment, but at 13 years old the other will soon follow it into retirement.

Mornington Crescent.

Like Magnet I would go with the suppliers recommendations rather than be guided by what you have in the car at the moment, which will undoubtedly have been renewed a few times in an 18 year old car.

I'd agree with Steve Q. Old software and maps should not affect the ability of the sat nav to detect satellites, even if it can not use the satellite data.

Derrick. Where do you feel the vibration, at the steering wheel or through the seat?

I know what you mean as I am the same. I prefer to not have a particular function or service or product at all if it does not work as it should.

Allow me to put my chemist's hat on again. Silicones are the best thing for plastics and rubbers because they do not soften or dissolve them, unlike mineral oils, however they are much more difficult to remove than mineral oils. If you have ever smeared silicone mastic on a glass shower door it will be forever water repellant.

£140 diagnosis in addition to the £160/year subscription? I reckon that's a positive all right...for Audi's balance sheet.

Good guess. See this https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/ Yours is a similar model but the technology will be the same.

Oh I have in the past. The manufacturer is notoriously tight lipped about the constituents of WD40. All one can get out of them is the MSDS (material safety data sheet) which reveals only that the solvent is similar to white spirit. https://sichdatonline.chemical-check.de/Dokumente/3275/EUF-0002_0012_27-02-2024_EN.pdf As a chemist in a past life I recognise that WD40 is a mixture of oil, white spirit and a powerful perfume to cover the solvent stink. I suspect it also contains drying agents to congeal the oil. Drying agents were commonly used at one time in oil based paints and varnishes. (I used to be involved in the manufacture of two such agents: cobalt siccatol and manganese siccatol so I know a little about them.)

I have to agree with Mark on this matter. WD40 is evil stuff that slowly congeals to a sticky muck that frequently makes the problem worse. If you get to it before it has completely dried you can free it by adding more WD40. It is like becoming addicted to a drug in that once you start using it you have to keep buying more. What a wonderful strategy to increase sales! Despite the manufacturers claims, WD40 is a poor lubricant. Bear in mind it was developed as a rust preventative because of its water displacement properties, (hence the WD in its name,) which require it to dry to a firm well adhered coating on steel. That's the last thing you want from a lubricant.

Glad to hear it's sorted. Giddy up Neddy.

It might be the hydraulics that operate the clutch. At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch start to bite or grip? It should be about half way. If it bites close to the floor you have a problem with either the master or slave cylinder.

What news on this Lee? Have you had the battery tested or renewed?

Roshan. Was the information in the linked video of use to you?

In that case I suspect a fault in the car.

What was the state of charge when you began recent charging sessions? Are you aware that the charge rate will drop considerably as the SOC approaches 80%? It is usually said that it takes as long to charge from 10% to 80% as it does to charge from 80% to 100%.

Ma. Was the information in the replies of any use to you?

Harvey. 1/ I'd be concerned about any part of the suspension being misaligned whether through corrosion or crash damage. Does the car have a recent MOT? 2/ I can't help with the fault codes. 3/ There is bound to be steam from the exhaust in cold weather on start up, and if it disappears once the engine and exhaust are fully warmed up then all well and good. What does the vendor have to say about the AA report?

Well if there is no flow through the matrix then it is blocked. Have you tried flushing with mains pressure water in the reverse direction? Some folk suggest a pressure washer but I have reservations about whether the system is capable of withstanding 100 bar pressure. If you are searching for a water flow control valve, there isn't one. That system was dropped years ago in favour of flaps in the air ducts to regulate temperature.

Odd noises and a persistant oil leak are never going to turn out well without some rapid intervention.

Tony. Before delving into the dashboard consider if this might be the cause of your problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg

Simple answer: cheap, cheap, cheap. Audi have abandoned all but the pretence of quality in recent years. Be glad it is only cupholders that are absent; other buyers are finding their hybrid cars don't actually run after less than a year, pointing to a systemic lapse in standards in the company's efforts to reduce costs.