cliffcoggin

I'd agree with Steve Q. Old software and maps should not affect the ability of the sat nav to detect satellites, even if it can not use the satellite data.

Derrick. Where do you feel the vibration, at the steering wheel or through the seat?

I know what you mean as I am the same. I prefer to not have a particular function or service or product at all if it does not work as it should.

Allow me to put my chemist's hat on again. Silicones are the best thing for plastics and rubbers because they do not soften or dissolve them, unlike mineral oils, however they are much more difficult to remove than mineral oils. If you have ever smeared silicone mastic on a glass shower door it will be forever water repellant.

£140 diagnosis in addition to the £160/year subscription? I reckon that's a positive all right...for Audi's balance sheet.

Good guess. See this https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/ Yours is a similar model but the technology will be the same.

Oh I have in the past. The manufacturer is notoriously tight lipped about the constituents of WD40. All one can get out of them is the MSDS (material safety data sheet) which reveals only that the solvent is similar to white spirit. https://sichdatonline.chemical-check.de/Dokumente/3275/EUF-0002_0012_27-02-2024_EN.pdf As a chemist in a past life I recognise that WD40 is a mixture of oil, white spirit and a powerful perfume to cover the solvent stink. I suspect it also contains drying agents to congeal the oil. Drying agents were commonly used at one time in oil based paints and varnishes. (I used to be involved in the manufacture of two such agents: cobalt siccatol and manganese siccatol so I know a little about them.)

I have to agree with Mark on this matter. WD40 is evil stuff that slowly congeals to a sticky muck that frequently makes the problem worse. If you get to it before it has completely dried you can free it by adding more WD40. It is like becoming addicted to a drug in that once you start using it you have to keep buying more. What a wonderful strategy to increase sales! Despite the manufacturers claims, WD40 is a poor lubricant. Bear in mind it was developed as a rust preventative because of its water displacement properties, (hence the WD in its name,) which require it to dry to a firm well adhered coating on steel. That's the last thing you want from a lubricant.

Glad to hear it's sorted. Giddy up Neddy.

It might be the hydraulics that operate the clutch. At what point in the pedal travel does the clutch start to bite or grip? It should be about half way. If it bites close to the floor you have a problem with either the master or slave cylinder.

What news on this Lee? Have you had the battery tested or renewed?

Roshan. Was the information in the linked video of use to you?

In that case I suspect a fault in the car.

What was the state of charge when you began recent charging sessions? Are you aware that the charge rate will drop considerably as the SOC approaches 80%? It is usually said that it takes as long to charge from 10% to 80% as it does to charge from 80% to 100%.

Ma. Was the information in the replies of any use to you?

Harvey. 1/ I'd be concerned about any part of the suspension being misaligned whether through corrosion or crash damage. Does the car have a recent MOT? 2/ I can't help with the fault codes. 3/ There is bound to be steam from the exhaust in cold weather on start up, and if it disappears once the engine and exhaust are fully warmed up then all well and good. What does the vendor have to say about the AA report?

Well if there is no flow through the matrix then it is blocked. Have you tried flushing with mains pressure water in the reverse direction? Some folk suggest a pressure washer but I have reservations about whether the system is capable of withstanding 100 bar pressure. If you are searching for a water flow control valve, there isn't one. That system was dropped years ago in favour of flaps in the air ducts to regulate temperature.

Odd noises and a persistant oil leak are never going to turn out well without some rapid intervention.

Tony. Before delving into the dashboard consider if this might be the cause of your problem: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg

Simple answer: cheap, cheap, cheap. Audi have abandoned all but the pretence of quality in recent years. Be glad it is only cupholders that are absent; other buyers are finding their hybrid cars don't actually run after less than a year, pointing to a systemic lapse in standards in the company's efforts to reduce costs.

Not true. Guaranteed for eight years does not mean it will expire in eight years, any more than a seven year guarantee on a liquid fuel car means the engine will implode after seven years.

I hope you have that in writing because it could be horrendously expensive.

As a driver of an all electric car for the last three years I have refrained from joining this discussion until I gained some more experience and knowledge. The whole subject is a minefield of misinformation and myth which, being a scientist at heart, I am happy to dispel, or at least argue. These are my observations. ECONOMY. I bought the car for reasons solely of economy. Fuel costs of 2.5 pence per mile can not be matched by any liquid fuel car. However the car is tiny and only charged at home on cheap electricity; those with bigger cars charging at public charging stations on a motorway will get comparable fuel costs to petrol & diesel. CARBON EMISSIONS. The electricity has to be generated somehow. If that is done by burning fossil fuel at power stations then all we are doing is moving the combustion from our cars to the power stations, and nothing is gained environmentally. Electricity generation needs to done by an alternative process that does not involve burning stuff. CARBON FOOTPRINT. If the carbon footprint of the manufacturing process for both types of cars is considered, then electric cars will need to travel a greater distance before achieving carbon neutrality. ROAD WEAR. Electric cars are heavier than the equivalent non electric models so it is inevitable that more wear and damage will be caused to the roads. DIESEL vs BIO DIESEL. These two forms of fuel are virtually identical chemically, so they both emit the same amount of CO2. To argue that bio diesel is better for the environment are therefore nonsense. The only difference is that one is extracted from under ground while the other is grown on the ground surface. Both need processing of some sort to become a commercial product. BATTERY LIFE. Early lithium car batteries (such as the Mk1 Nissan leaf,) had little or no temperature control so they degraded and only lasted a few years. Later cars have much better liquid cooling/heating and hence last a lot longer. Typically they are guaranteed for eight years. BATTERY CHEMISTRY. The current lithium/cobalt/manganese batteries require sophisticated battery management systems to control their charging and discharging to avoid damage, and yet they do eventually degrade. They also suffer uncontrollable fires if damaged. Newer lithium/iron batteries are more durable though their capacity is less. They are also less prone to uncontrollable fires than LiMnCo. Both types are difficult and dangerous to recycle at the end of their useful lives. Newer chemistries such as sodium batteries have the potential to perform better on all counts though, like nuclear fusion, that goal is always at least ten years away. RANGE. The range of most electric cars is much less than their petrol/diesel equivalents and the availability of public charge points is also less so careful planning was needed for a long distance journey. Thankfully that is now changing but the two are still not comparable in terms of convenience. PUBLIC RECHARGING. [1] The ability to recharge in public has been spoiled by each electricity vendor requiring its own particular RFID card or phone application and account. Only recently has that started to change with the introduction of credit card payment. [2] The CCS plug is becoming the standard for Europe, but there are still plenty of Type 2 and Chademo plug cars on the road, so vendors should provide all three types of outlet, though few now do so. The situation in the USA differs in that Type 1 plugs have been the standard so American cars can not be used in Europe and vice versa. [3] Maintenance of charge points has been notoriously poor in the past, though that is at last changing. (The vendors received a government subsidy for installation of charge points but were not required to maintain them.) The consequence for anybody wanting to recharge in public was that one had to find a charge point that (a) functioned, (b) suited the accounts and cards in ones wallet or phone, (c) was within range. I have written much more than I intended, but I could not make it less without ignoring some essential factors.

The 1.4 litre petrol engine was notorious for a few years for its enormous oil consumption. I don't recall which years were affected so it would be worth researching to determine if yours is one of them. Whatever the result, take it back to the dealer.

Well having now sorted our volts from our amps, and are talking the same language, let's see if we can get a little closer to the problem. The normal background drain from a battery is typically about 50 milliamps. If yours is losing significantly more than that, then some electrical circuit is still in operation. Removing each fuse in turn and measuring the current flow across the contacts with your meter should reveal what is still live, though be aware that some multimeters will be damaged by high currents. On the other hand if the only loss from the battery is a few dozen milliamps yet it still goes flat then the battery has an internal fault and must be replaced. It doesn't matter if it still starts the engine, it doesn't matter if it is still showing 12.4 volts, it is clapped out. Many owners, and I was one once, refuse to accept that a battery can be defective and still start the engine, but it's true. The nature of modern car electronics is a need for a stable power supply not just a minimum voltage. In fact I suspect the "parasitic drain" I see mentioned from time to time in the forum is more likely a weak battery most of the time. Anyway, if and when you fit a new battery you will need to have it coded to the car. See this for an explanation of how and why. Blithely swapping batteries around as we both did forty years ago is no longer feasible. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ysatH73_gM PS. I have hidden your earlier duplicate reply for neatness. Let me know if you want it exposed again.