cliffcoggin

A simple multi meter voltage test will be no good. It needs a professional one on deep discharge equipment. Most Halfords and Kwikfit (pardon me for swearing) will do it at no charge.

If you bought it from a dealer in the last 30 days take it back and let him sort it out at no cost to you. On the other hand if you bought it privately and are responsible for repairs the first step is to get the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause the sort of faults you experienced. Let us know the outcome.

See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Sorry Colin, but it is not clear to me what the problem is or what you are asking. You mentioned limp mode and heating and an error code but I don't see a connection between them.

It seems we, including myself, are making assumptions based on an imprecise story, so can we establish some facts? 1/ Was the soft pedal only discovered during the retest? That would point to a poor repair technique, but as long as it was corrected before issuing a certificate it's nothing to worry about. 2/ Is the pedal now still soft despite having a certificate? 3/ Did you Leah comment or complain at the time and what was the response?

Thanks for letting us know.

And did you calibrate them? Have you even measured the actual tyre pressures to confirm the TPMS warning?

Just as I thought. Please desist from any further misleading and damaging claims if you wish to continue as a member of these forums.

Ales please provide peer reviewed evidence of your outlandish claims.

Be wary of advertisement photos. They are often copied from ads for similar but non identical cars, probably without the advertiser's realisation that features may differ. Extreme example are TV ads for cars in the UK that usually show top spec LHD European models, with just the tiniest subtitle pointing that out that fact.

Leah did write "there is a fair bit of travel in the pedal before they start to slow the car".

If you can not find ready made kits at Audi or VW, there is the expensive option to have custom hoses made. Somewhere on the forum home page was a company advertising just such a service, though I can not find it at the moment.

I am not aware of any members, VW trained or otherwise, who work for other members. You could ask in the appropriate forum but don't be surprised if there is no response. We have no published lists of parts suppliers, though various members have their own personal reccommendations if you ask specific questions about the part you seek. Contact to individual members can be done using the forum message system by clicking on the envelope symbol to the top right of each page, though I caution against abusing the system for questions that are better addressed to the forum.

That testing station staff are clearly a bunch of cowboys, and should be reported to the DOT for issueing a certificate for a defective vehicle. I suggest you take the car to another garage without delay and get the repairs done properly before getting it tested. Note that air in the brake hydraulic system is regarded as dangerous because the brakes will work unevenly, and in the worst case can cause the car to spin. Make no mistake Leah, your car is dangerous in its present condition!

If servicing was done by Audi or an Audi accredited agent you can apply to Audi for a print of all the work done on the car during its life. If servicing was done elsewhere or skipped then there will be no record of it. I can't help with your other questions.

If the coolant level is dropping but there is no visible leak, then the leak must be internal, in which case I'd agree with Steve's suggestion of EGR cooler.

Letting you do the searching is saving me a lot of keyboard tapping.

There are plenty of automotive locksmiths around if you don't fancy Audi prices.

It could be a faulty switch, a faulty limit switch, or even damaged wiring between door and frame. A scan on a code reader should give some pointers.

Was a new tyre pressure monitor installed with the new tyres?

John. Search other sections of these forums for mild hybrid to see if symptoms described there match yours.

If Audi have no idea I suggest you try an independent gearbox specialist. I suspect the mechatronic control unit needs overhaul.

See this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TFK0JPs6aO0

Maris. I do not know it there is a different clutch on stop/start and non stop/start cars, but logically there must be else nobody would fit the more expensive one. Note Stevey Y's comments about the ring gear difference between DMF and standard flywheels, so if you plan to change to standard you need to check whether the starter motor also needs to be changed.

I believe all Audis for the last 18 or 19 years needed battery coding. Certainly my 2007 A3 did.