cliffcoggin

Indeed it is only new cars. My apologies.

It would help if you mentioned the engine size and fuel, but it is likely it would need to be calibrated with computer diagnostics.

That's like asking how long is a piece of string. As long as it has a full service history, the features you want, and is affordable, then take your pick. Naturally you will only get what you pay for, so the higher mileage cars will generally be cheaper, however a carefully driven and well maintained 100000 mile car will be better than a 50000 mile car that has been thrashed by a boy racer. That's why condition and service history are so important. If you are not mechanically minded, take somebody with you who is when you look at possible purchases. Let me add two things to the above. [1] Don't be sucked into any dealer supplied extended warranty. They are all worthless. [2] Bear in mind the big changes to car tax that are coming in April.

I couldn't help but chuckle at that.

That recharging the battery immediately allows the doors to lock strongly suggests that the battery is weak. If it is the original battery it undoubtedly needs to be renewed. Note that the ability of a battery to crank the engine is not an indication of it being in good condition,

Lee, you wii not get a reply from Gillian as she has not returned to the forum since 20th November.

Yes.

Are you now saying your car has a timing chain instead of a timing belt? The two are very different in terms of scheduled servicing.

Sorry Richard, I will not download software from untrusted sources. Perhaps you could put them Youtube.

Steve. Have you used this Forte stuff in any of your cars? A personal recommendation from you would carry a lot of weight if it was effective. Incidentally I looked up three MSDS (material safety data sheets,) for Adblue and all give the concentration as 32.5 % urea, which is well below its solubility limit so I can not explain the cause of the crystallisation problem. (I like to look into these things because I was a chemist in a previous life.) Also noteworthy is its freezing point of -11 C, an uncommon temperature in this country.

You are mistaken. It is not so much group knowledge that main dealers have, it is a set of detailed instructions from Audi on how to do each job. The parts to be fitted, the time it must take, the charge to the customer are all laid down. Knowledge plays no part in the process, and if their computer says no then all bets are off. However if you as a non-mechanic prefer to believe the marketing nonsense put out by Audi I shall not try to dissuade you. If you ask your dealer what he recommends should be done at the same time as the cambelt I have no doubt he will be only too pleased to make suggestions.

There are good and bad independants, just as there are good and bad main dealers. You will have to research the reputations of those near you for yourself. As a generalisation I recommend independants because they give better service and are more approachable. Often they are also cheaper. Bear in mind that independants survive solely on their reputations; unlike main dealers there is no central organisation behind them to prop them up.

If chrome polish will not deal with the corrosion, you can buy new chrome trims.

Electronic oil level sensors can be unreliable. Search the forum history for examples. Is there a dipstick you can read the true level from?

I was too until the car suffered simultaneous unexplained electrical problems that all magically disappeared on fitting and coding a new battery. It was a hard lesson to learn. I know of two other threads on the forum in which the owners refuse to accept their batteries are defective because a meter reading says it still has 12 volts. As the old adage goes "you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink."

16% looks rubbish because it is rubbish, and needs to be replaced. As I said on Jabuary 10th "The ability of a battery to crank the engine is not proof that it is in good condition."

What were the results of the retest Andy? Please transcribe to text as reflections in your photos make them difficult to read.

I have no idea as I have never seen inside a A6 door. It might be rod, it might be a cable. Have a look online for specific guidance.

Nigel. I have moved this topic to the Q2 section as it does not belong in Stickers. I have also hidden your duplicate of this topic.

Fair enough. I wish you luck finding the parts you want.

Please let us know the outcome. The information may be of use to others.

Doesn't the test kit tell you how to interpret the results? All I see is a picture of four graduated bottles containing a liquid I presume is diesel fuel.

I believe the mechanical linkage from door handle to lock is defective. You will need to remove the door card to get access to it.

Your dealership is lying to you, either through reluctance to pay out under the terms of their guarantee or from incompetance in the workshop. No car should have perceptible clicking or knocking in the steering. I suspect the dealer is hoping you will live with it until the guarantee has run out and he can wash his hands of it.

Chris. If you manage to get the heater unblocked, or if you have to replace it, consider what caused it to become blocked initially. It's possible there is a burst bag of silica gel that will give you another blockage. See this for an explanation of a problem that I only recently became aware of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg