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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    I see no picture.
  2. cliffcoggin
    Russell. The prime candidate is a weak or defective battery. I suggest you get the battery professionally tested before looking for other causes of the fault.
  3. cliffcoggin
    There is no magic solution to this unless you are prepared to spend hundreds or even thousands of pounds on engine modifications. For the average motorist who does not want to modify his car the recommendations are same as they have been since the dawn of motor cars a century ago: 1/ Service it regularly. 2/ Maintain the correct tyre pressures. 3/ Be as gentle on the accelerator and brake pedals as possible.
  4. cliffcoggin
    I would fit a new chain while I had access, to avoid doing the job a second time at a later date. Chains stretch over time until eventually they are longer than the tensioners can accomodate.
  5. cliffcoggin
    Probably the compressor as mentioned in: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/27161-rear-suspension/#comment-106137 https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26506-front-suspension-strut/#comment-102910
  6. cliffcoggin
    I wonder if the previous owner of the car was, shall we say, rather large, and has damaged the seat. Try the passenger seat for comparison.
  7. cliffcoggin
    Are you running them at the correct pressures for that particular size of tyre? Look in the handbook rather than relying on a tyre vendor's recommendation. What pressure guage are you using? Those on garage forecourts are notorious for errors, as are the cheapies from the likes of Halfords. The cost of a decent guage will be repaid many times over in longer tyre life. Are you testing the pressures cold or hot? Cold is normal.
  8. cliffcoggin
    Overhead switches, if such things still exist?
  9. cliffcoggin
    Worn alternator belts make that sort of sound.
  10. cliffcoggin
    Dogbone link. I like that name Stevey, and must try to remember it. It describes the part exactly.
  11. cliffcoggin
    Ir would be worth getting the battery professionally tested because defective batteries can play havoc with the car's sensitive electronics. I stress a professional test because a simple multi meter reading of 12.5 volts will not reveal any internal faults. Let us know the outcome of the test before we explore other causes for limp mode.
  12. cliffcoggin
    How old is the battery?
  13. cliffcoggin
    Does your car have anti-rock strut connecting the top of the engine to the bulkhead? If it does, check the rubber bush.
  14. cliffcoggin
    So did you get the sidelights to work? I've never heard of rain lighting. Can you explain further?
  15. cliffcoggin
    The most likely culprits are the CV (constant velocity) joints. Does the knock become worse when the steering is at full lock?
  16. cliffcoggin
    Neil. I imagine that has all the necessary connections. The next step is to inspect and test the wiring harness to the door.
  17. cliffcoggin
    Simon. If you frequently have a heavy load in the boot it would be worth investigating whether upgraded springs are available, and of course change both for a matched pair as Gareth mentioned.
  18. cliffcoggin
    If that means you are unsure which fuse to use you should choose carefully. You need to find one that is not permanently live (i.e. only comes on with the ignition,) else you will flatten the battery overnight. Your plan of using a piggy back fuse is a good one as it maintains the principle of one device per fuse. Check that you can close the fusebox cover once the extra fuse is fitted. Doing precisely this job on my A3 some years ago was what led me to this forum.
  19. cliffcoggin
    If the 7.5 amp fuse supplies some other circuit in addition to the satnav I suggest you leave it, or even uprate it depending on the total electrical load it carries.
  20. cliffcoggin
    Does courtesy not exist any more?
  21. cliffcoggin
    Did the new lock have an integral switch, or did you attach the old switch. The other thing to look at is the wiring between door and pillar. The wires had a habit of breaking in the older A3s.
  22. cliffcoggin
    Kelly. For information there are two stages to starting an engine: 1/ cranking, (or turning over,) when the starter spins the engine to suck air and fuel into it; 2/ ignition, (or firing,) when the fuel/air mixture in the engine ignites. Yours is clearly not turning over so likely it is an electrical fault somewhere between the switch and the starter relay. I doubt that the starter motor itself is faulty because the instrument lights stay bright. Your plan to recover it a garage is a good one.
  23. cliffcoggin
    An internet search found this place at Barnard Castle, which is a county away from you. Perhaps you can find others a bit closer. https://www.carrosserie.co.uk/
  24. cliffcoggin
    In that case I would agree a servo fault. Quite how to fix it I am not sure, so let's wait for other opinions.
  25. cliffcoggin
    You'll be lucky. Bear in mind that the more it slips, and it will get progressively worse, the more fuel the car will burn.
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