cliffcoggin

You are mistaken. It is not so much group knowledge that main dealers have, it is a set of detailed instructions from Audi on how to do each job. The parts to be fitted, the time it must take, the charge to the customer are all laid down. Knowledge plays no part in the process, and if their computer says no then all bets are off. However if you as a non-mechanic prefer to believe the marketing nonsense put out by Audi I shall not try to dissuade you. If you ask your dealer what he recommends should be done at the same time as the cambelt I have no doubt he will be only too pleased to make suggestions.

There are good and bad independants, just as there are good and bad main dealers. You will have to research the reputations of those near you for yourself. As a generalisation I recommend independants because they give better service and are more approachable. Often they are also cheaper. Bear in mind that independants survive solely on their reputations; unlike main dealers there is no central organisation behind them to prop them up.

If chrome polish will not deal with the corrosion, you can buy new chrome trims.

Electronic oil level sensors can be unreliable. Search the forum history for examples. Is there a dipstick you can read the true level from?

I was too until the car suffered simultaneous unexplained electrical problems that all magically disappeared on fitting and coding a new battery. It was a hard lesson to learn. I know of two other threads on the forum in which the owners refuse to accept their batteries are defective because a meter reading says it still has 12 volts. As the old adage goes "you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink."

16% looks rubbish because it is rubbish, and needs to be replaced. As I said on Jabuary 10th "The ability of a battery to crank the engine is not proof that it is in good condition."

What were the results of the retest Andy? Please transcribe to text as reflections in your photos make them difficult to read.

I have no idea as I have never seen inside a A6 door. It might be rod, it might be a cable. Have a look online for specific guidance.

Nigel. I have moved this topic to the Q2 section as it does not belong in Stickers. I have also hidden your duplicate of this topic.

Fair enough. I wish you luck finding the parts you want.

Please let us know the outcome. The information may be of use to others.

Doesn't the test kit tell you how to interpret the results? All I see is a picture of four graduated bottles containing a liquid I presume is diesel fuel.

I believe the mechanical linkage from door handle to lock is defective. You will need to remove the door card to get access to it.

Your dealership is lying to you, either through reluctance to pay out under the terms of their guarantee or from incompetance in the workshop. No car should have perceptible clicking or knocking in the steering. I suspect the dealer is hoping you will live with it until the guarantee has run out and he can wash his hands of it.

Chris. If you manage to get the heater unblocked, or if you have to replace it, consider what caused it to become blocked initially. It's possible there is a burst bag of silica gel that will give you another blockage. See this for an explanation of a problem that I only recently became aware of: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg

Ben. Get a good quality battery such as Varta, Exide etc, not one of the cheap ones which will let you down in short order. Ensure you code it the car using something like OBD11 and the like. This explains how and why the coding is done, albeit with a different gadget: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SDeewdrTmX0&t=1s

Well that's a very nice, and rather unexpected, result.

Shane. Was the above of any help to you?

It's worth trying to claim on the warranty, though like you I have a good idea what they will say. I doubt that any modern car has such an inherent clutch fault. That sounds like an excuse a secondhand car dealer would trot out.

It is very possibly the immobiliser from the symptoms you describe. If Audi will not touch it I suggest you find an auto electrician or an independant VAG specialist to test it. I assume such people exist in France.

I find it hard to believe all those modules failed simultaneously, so what were the circumstances of the failures and what were the symptoms? Did your electrical friend do the diagnosis on OBD11 or similar equipment?

Ron. Have you checked the wiper linkage is undamaged? The problem may not be the motor at all.

My first thought was a broken engine mounting, but that usually causes an audible clunk as it moves. Nevertheless it is worth checking them all as a first step. My second thought is a broken spring in the driven plate. Clutch removal will be needed to confirm if that is so.

Liam. Do you hear any knocks or bangs when the car lurches?

I am curious about checking the chassis alignment. Has it been crashed?