cliffcoggin

Didn't you ask at the garage that failed it?

Fair enough.

See the last entry on this thread: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/31051-new-a4-arrival/ which says "Had a few Japanese cars in the past & the underside protection is primer!"

No, he only looks in once or twice per year, and I suspect that is just to see if we are still alive.

Well done. That engine bay looks impossibly clean. Has Mr. Sheen been assisting?

Jerome. Every car has two latches for the bonnet. The primary one is operated by a mechanism inside the car; there is also a secondary latch to prevent the bonnet flying up in case the first fails, which is operated usually by a lever under the lip of the bonnet. Evidently both of yours have failed if the bonnet was flying up. Has the car been crashed?

You can't stretch a steel cable, so what is really wrong with it? Why do you want to change it?

I echo David's suggestion of repairing the existing wiring rather than a new loom. Looms are individually made at the factory to suit each specific car specification. Apparently it is cheaper to do that than to fit universal looms which wastes wires that are not used in some specs.

So it's a matter of length not which side of the car it fits to? What length do you need?

Which if you look at the original listing says "This item is specific to right hand drive vehicles". So what is the problem?

Try car breakers. Many are online nowadays.

Thanks for the update Barry. Glad the problem is now solved and that your mechanic owned up. In your position I too would have paid for the new parts, even if not strictly necessary, as a gesture to him.

Hear, hear.

Well done, though it's not the simple plug in bypass that I believe you were hoping for.

No amount of charging will correct a defective battery. I am told Kwitfit and Halfords offer free battery testing.

So not not new at all. Best include them in the soapy water tests.

Good man.

It's a common problem across many models. Glad you managed to repair it.

The dealer is talking rubbish. Normal voltage in a new car is 12.4 while the engine is off. Before returning it under guarantee check that you are not leaving any lights on when you exit the car. Have you fitted any extra electrical gadgets such as sat nav, dash cam, phone charger etc?

Reg/Stephan. Your experiences make interesting reading, but may I ask you to keep them out of this topic which is trying to help Leah with her possibly dangerous brakes. The Club Lounge forum may be a more suitable place for reminiscing.

OK we have established there is a real drop in pressure rather than an erroneous TPMS warning. The wheels are new so they can't be at fault. That leaves only the valves and the tyres that can lose air. Have you sprayed soapy water onto them? Any air loss will show as bubbles.

It seems that "certainly will" has become "can't be bothered".

Without access to the car all I can is suggest the most likely problems. If you believe there is a bad earth but can not find one an auto electrician may be your best bet.

Not so, the delicate electronics of modern cars require a stable power source which a dying battery can not supply, even if it can crank the engine normally. That's why I suggested professional testing on a deep discharge tester, which will measure voltage while drawing at least 200 amps.

So what? Even new a battery can fail if it it is unsuitable or the charging circuits are faulty. That's why I suggested getting tested. However if you want to work on the assumption it is in good condition then I refer you to my first reply regarding the instrument cluster.