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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    Clearly nothing should rattle, so the first step should be to secure any loose parts you can find. That includes exhaust mountings, air ducts around the brake discs, heat shields around the exhaust, etc. If you still have a rattle after securing every source of the noise that is external to the engine, it must be from within the engine or gearbox.
  2. cliffcoggin
    When you say you "have looked under the car", do you mean you peered under the bumper from the front, or you put the car over a pit and rattled every component you could grasp?
  3. cliffcoggin
    No joy (sic) with this one Gareth.
  4. cliffcoggin
    It's worth looking. Postage from Germany would be less than from England, plus I assume Denmark is part of the EU, or at least in the Schengen zone, so import duty will not exist.
  5. cliffcoggin
    There's no harm in asking Stephen, but it would be miraculous if you found somebody able and willing to do the job nearby.
  6. cliffcoggin
    I think I hear it, but not sure. I do hear a creak at about 3 seconds which might be CV joints (bad news) or just one of the steering column bearings (good news).
  7. cliffcoggin
    I think it unlikely that sort of repair would withstand the temperature and pressure of the cooling system for very long. Have you considered having one made as I suggested earlier? Kev pointed out this company in the UK, but possibly there are similar companies in Denmark? https://www.apd.co.uk/car-parts/heater-hose/car/audi/100-c1-saloon-801-803-805-807-811-813-f104-1968-1976/5798_514517
  8. cliffcoggin
    In principle, yes, but if you make the wheels one inch smaller you must make the tyres one inch bigger (higher profile) so that the overall diameter remains the same. That takes no account of physical limitations such as space and clearances for all the moving parts of the suspension and steering, so unless you know what you are doing you should consult a specialist.
  9. cliffcoggin
    Adding surplus oil is not without risk. Better to establish whether the sensor is faulty than to take a chance by over-filling. As Magnet suggested, the only way to be certain is to remove and measure the qualtity of oil.
  10. cliffcoggin
    Peter. See this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/26979-rattle-when-engine-under-load/
  11. cliffcoggin
    Sorry John, all I hear is the usual diesel clatter. It oftens happens that owners post a recording of a noise that is very apparent to them because they become attuned to it as a result of hearing it every day, but we rarely hear anything strange from a short recording.
  12. cliffcoggin
    Thanks for that detailed information Mohammed. It will defintely be useful for others.
  13. cliffcoggin
    I have no specific knowledge of those warranties, but in general secondhand car warranties are not worth the paper they are written on. I suggest you look very closely at the exclusions before committing money to any of them. Look too at the relevant section of this forum for your model to see if there are any common faults. Also look at professional reviews, though they tend to be cautious about criticisms.
  14. cliffcoggin
    Niso. If anybody was able to help I am sure he would have done so by now. All I can suggest is that you take the car to a garage.
  15. cliffcoggin
    Some of the cheap code readers are worthless. Look through the recent forum posts for a recommendation from one of the Steves who knows more about the matter than me.
  16. cliffcoggin
    You won't get useful comments unless you first give us all the relevant facts. Your assumption of attitude is just that, an assumption, and a false one at that.
  17. cliffcoggin
    It's likely the remapping and other work is responsible for the turbo failures, in which case I can not help. Perhaps somebody more knowledgable will offer advice.
  18. cliffcoggin
    Sorry, I have no idea.
  19. cliffcoggin
    You might be lucky in pricking the jets with a pin, but it is possible the blockage will simply be pushed back up the pipe, only to be pushed forward into the jet again by the water. If that happens you will need to remove the jet and back flush it with water to get rid of the dirt.
  20. cliffcoggin
    So what is the fix Kev? Don't keep it a secret.
  21. cliffcoggin
    Oscar. As you have discovered, there are few parts available for a 32 year old car. I suggest you try Ebay in the first instance. If that fails I believe there are companies that can fabricate new hoses at considerable expense.
  22. cliffcoggin
    Gary. I am not sure I completely understand the problem even now, so let me summarise the symptoms as I read them. [1] The engine fan continues to run after switching off the ignition and removing the key. Correct? [2] The cabin fan runs when the fan switch is in the OFF position and the ignition is switched on, but when the ignition is switched off the cabin fan stops. Correct? We need to properly understand the problem before suggesting a solution.
  23. cliffcoggin
    Thanks for the information Steve. That's something new I have learned.
  24. cliffcoggin
    Hmm. I am not convinced. The lower flange of the crankcase still has to be cleaned so why not the upper flange of the sump?
  25. cliffcoggin
    The headlights click? I am not familiar with xenon lights but I'd be surprised if there are relays within the lights. Tungsten lamps for instance have their relays well away from the light fittings, usually on or close to a fuseboard.
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