cliffcoggin

Good man. I wish other new members would do the same. Welcome.

Ouch! That's going to be an expensive welding repair because it cannot be done in situ.

That is the right technique, but the ignition needs to be on.

Parts for all models less than ten years old should still be available from Audi. Have you tried?

David. I recall reading about that problem a couple of times in the forum. Sorry, but I don't believe a solution was found.

A pity you did not mention that earlier. Given how cheap the car was, you must have wasted almost as much money on the new pedal and the new master cylinder. Money you could have spent on a slave cylinder.

Realistically Dillon, and assuming you have shopped around for better prices, with your age against you all you can do is swap the car for an older, cheaper, less powerful vehicle, and park it in a garage overnight if possible.

Good luck with that Adam. You'll need luck when the clutch fails miles from home and you can't engage any gears without grinding them.

Evidently the matter is not doing Stuart's head at all as he has not returned to the forum since joining, and he has wasted everyone's time. Oh well, that's another one for the blacklist.

The difference between front and rear is only the tyre widths, not the diameters, so in that respect they are safe. Whether they should be the same width in regard to wear and handling may be a different matter as I am aware that Quattros are sensitive to mismatching of tyres. I'll leave that for somebody more knowledgeable to answer. I too wonder why narrower tyres have been fitted to the front. Was it for economy or could it have been because the suspension has been modified to need more clearance from wheel arches? It would be worth investigating the suspension before spending money on new tyres.

It wouldn't hurt to grind a small chamfer on the bolts to ease them into the holes.

And was it coded to the car?

Hello sorry i wasnt sure how to reply i have now figured it out. It is worth only what somebody will pay for it, whether that is £800 or £8000.

A dying battery can cause all those symptoms so the first thing to do is get tested professionally, not a multimeter voltage reading. If a new battery is needed get it coded to the car. Only after proving the power supply is sound is it worth investigating any remaining symptoms.

Do please let us know the outcome.

If the Audi dealer found no faults at the first diagnosis how much reliance can you place on his second attempt? Then there is AI which has given you a list of possible faults, but no certainties. Are you going to spend money on that basis? I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist who can test the car with a decent code reader such as VCDS, and let him do the diagnosis before committing to any expenditure.

You can leave if you want, but the topic will remain intact for the benefit of other members.

Mike. Read the whole of this topic, then tell us if you are still going to buy the car. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system

John you are not the first, and will not be the last, owner to discover that Audi's reputation as a reliable prestige brand went down the pan a decade ago. Engineers have been replaced by bean counters and mucketeers.

Could the answer be as simple as inverting either the disc or the wheel?

Thank you.

Would you publish the source for the new impellor for the benefit of the forum please?

Well done. Have you found a new replacement, or will you have to repair the broken impellor?

Stuart what is the point of asking a question on the forum if you don't return to read the replies?

Well done.