cliffcoggin

That looks to be useful company to know about for anybody in North London, Leicester, or Lamia (Greece).

Mechatronic units can be troublesome after a few years causing symptoms including erratic gear changes. Apparently they can be repaired by specialists at a fraction of the cost that Audi charges.

It would be interesting to know if that provides a long term solution. Do please let us know.

Your own cable or a tethered one on the charge point?

Hmm, I'm not convinced, but I guess we'll never know for certain.

This could get complicated and confused, so let's clarify some of the terminology involved before going any further. [1] The charger is always, without exception, within the car. It is the inverter that transforms 230 volt AC to 400 volts DC (or 800 volts in some new cars) plus associated electronics for control purposes. [2] The equipment you plug into the car is called in the industry an EVSE or a charge point. It is either [a] a slow charge 230 volt AC electrical power supply plus electronics to communicate with the car, or [b] a fast charge 400 volts DC electrical supply that bypasses the car's charger and goes straight to the battery, plus electronics to communicate with the car. See what I mean about complicated? Having got that out of the way, the fact you can charge at home on 230 volts AC means the car's charger is working. My questions then are whether the motorway charge point was a slow (230 volt AC) one or a fast (400 volt DC) one, and whether you were using your own charging cable or one fixed (tethered it's called in the industry) to the charge point? Answers to those questions may help us point to the fault.

To be honest Tony, I misread it as you suggesting TFSI not Steve. Apologies to you both. It's time I closed the computer and opened the wine.

Glad to hear you have solved the problem. It goes to show how ineffective or misleading low quality OBD readers can be. The website you linked to could prove very useful to us in the future when we are asked about fuse locations. I'll try to bookmark it where I can find it again. https://car-box.info/

What! The video clearly shows it to be a diesel. It has TDI on the boot lid.

Masontonylee. I have merged your identical topics because duplicate topics lead to confusion and dilution of effort. Please do not create duplicates. It won't get you any extra attention.

Never mind what the seller told you, can he provide written evidence of the car's service history? If he can not, walk away from the deal unless you fancy some expensive repair bills. Relying on a video and the vendor's patter to inform a purchase decision is something you will regret for ever. Go see the car, drive it, and examine the paperwork. If you don't feel confident enough in your own judgement take a knowledgeable friend or get the car independently examined. I believe the RAC or AA can provide that service. Above all don't rush into a decision. If you miss out on this one there will always be another.

Steve. I have hidden your original duplicate topic. It's perfectly fine to reply to your own topic if you have extra information to add.

Undoubtedly they will help if you pay them lots of money. Subscription services are a nasty increasing trend amongst car makers recently. BMW tried it a few years ago in regard to some of the luxury features that required an annual payment for continued operation.

My wife's Yeti has the stop/start system which I surmise from watching its operation works as follows. The stop/start control constantly measures the battery voltage when the engine is stopped to ensure there is enough power left to restart the engine. Urban driving involving many stops/starts without enough time between stops to fully recharge the battery will be sensed by the control which then prevents engine stops when stationary. Add to this the load imposed by the AC system in hot weather and stops may not happen at all. All of this requires a special kind of battery (AGM) which needs to be in tip top condition for the function to work. That's why one of the first symptoms of a failing battery is that the stop/start system does not engage. Personally I am undecided if the system is worthwhile if you take the wider view of the overall impact on the environment. Does the fuel and emission saving balance the extra wear on starter motors and batteries which then require replacement using more materials and energy? I don't know because I can not quantify the two sides of the equation, and as a scientist at heart verifiable facts are important to me.

One tenth of Audi cost is a good result indeed.

Congratulations on a successful repair.

Is it possible something you did has secured a poor electrical connection caused by corrosion/weak spring/unfastened clip etc?

Any comment Brad on the two replies you have received? I know you have seen them.

Sorry, I have no idea.

The exhaust gas recycle (EGR) valve returns some of the exhaust into the engine intake in order to reduce harmful emissions. It is water cooled. You can not turn it off, but the whole valve can be removed and the cooling circuit bypassed, however that will increase emissions and possibly cause other problems such as higher engine temperature and rapid blocking of the exhaust system. Whether such a modification is legal in your country is something you will have to discover for yourself.

Is there a reason for the question Amanda, or just curiosity?

The likely culprit is the EGR cooler which can leak coolant into the engine causing the white smoke. It's expensive to replace.

So what did they do to the brakes, and has it cured the noise?

I am really not getting a clear idea of the situation here. Some sort of software was updated, but it is not known which and why. The battery was tested, but no results have been presented to support the "all good" conclusion. The mechanic's "cpu is good but not perfect" so its conclusions can not be relied on. In the absense of firm information about the diagnoses I really cannot add anything further to this topic, however I wish you luck in solving the problem.

If you have almost eliminated a fuel fault, perhaps it is time to consider an electric or electronic problem. Have you had it on a decent diagnostic scanner?