cliffcoggin

Tony. Look through recent forum history. I recall seeing a few weeks a post about something similar. I believe it was a limiter for seat travel adjustment.

Peter. What I see in the pictures are places where the lacquer has peeled off, not cracks. Are the wheels the original factory fitted set or have you changed them?

That's a shame, but understandable. In your position I would do the same.

It all depends how hard it has been driven. As long as the price reflects the cost of the work needed to repair I would not dismiss it. More importantly does the car have a full service history?

Colin. Those are classic signs of a defective battery. When you buy a new one ensure you get it coded to the car else you will get even more problems.

I don't have your wide experience of different brands Gareth, so I would tend to take the safer option of only VAG parts despite their higher cost, particularly on this sort of job where the labour costs are very high compared to the parts costs.

Fair enough Dale. I know there are complications when converting non-original lights, but as it was never relevant to my car I have not kept up to date.

There are file size and compatability limits to the various formats, which have caused me problems putting music on USB sticks. My main computer runs a Linux OS formatted to ext4, so I have to make a point of remembering to format USB sticks to either FAT32 or exFAT if I want to use them in the car.

Jim. It's strange that the water pump was not renewed with the timing belt. They are normally done together because the same amount of expensive work is needed to get access to them. It is possible therefore that the water pump now needs to be replaced, though it would be worthfirst checking the alternator bearings and belt before booking the car for a pump change.

Glad to hear you have solved the problem, and thanks for letting us know. It may well help others. Unfortunately your modified lights may fail an MOT test, but wait for a better opinion from Steve before doing anything.

I give up.

If you are prepared to crawl under the car and get your hands dirty, it is easy to test the CV joints yourself. Clamp each drive shaft in turn with self-locking grips (e.g. Mole grips) and rotate to and fro. If you hear clicking and feel movement the joints are clapped out.

Nobody is asking about resetting the battery. The question, which has now been asked twice without an answer, is whether the battery was coded to the car. Unless that is done various electronic systems in the car will not work. Having said that, battery draining in 10 hours suggests there is some electrical equipment running (dashcam, radio, lights, satnav for examples) while the ignition is off, or an electrical fault. Be aware that if the new battery is completely flat it may have suffered damage and need replacement again, so it's essential to resolve the electrical fault before buying another. It would also be worth getting the alternator tested as they normally put out approximately 14.5 volts.

It sounds like a dry bearing, but beyond that I do not know.

You may have sorted it, but you have not provided a solution. If you have had a problem, then others will have as well, so how about telling us how you got it sorted?

Luke. A twenty year old low mileage car in good condition sounds too good to be true. I suspect the previous owner was an enthusiast who did more modifications than just a filter and dump valve. Is there a way to check if the ECU has been mapped for more performance?

Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It needs to be done. What in particular is "playing up"?

Your description sounds like the CV (constant velocity) joints are worn, but if the problem started immediately after work was done on the car I have to wonder if something was refitted wrongly during the gearbox repair.

It would be worth trying Ebay which has a variety of door card clips for sale.

Is this the same remapped gearbox you asked about two years ago, and failed to update us about? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/19949-rs5-2014-help/#comment-72407

What I meant by inspecting the cylinder walls was looking and feeling for a step near the top of the bores, which would indicate wear of the cylinders and/or piston rings. Ideally one would use a micrometer to measure the diameters of the worn and unworn sections, but feeling for a step is a good indication. Heavy scoring of the bores would also be bad news. Whatever the cause of the soot accumulation it still has to be dealt with by removing the head in order to clean it. The process was called de-coking back in the day when I regularly got my hands dirty and people knew what coke was.

Good Lord Gareth. Does it also have a wick carburettor and desmodromic valves?

Ricky. As Magnet said, the test needs to be done with all plugs out and the throttle wide open. Hot or cold makes no significant difference as long as all tests are done under the same conditions. Crank the engine until the pressure reading is stable, which should only take a few revolutions. The absolute readings for each cylinder are not as important as differences between cylinders, so if you find one cylinder or one bank is much lower or higher than the others you have a real problem. In your position I would not be spending money on new injectors or any other parts until the head has been taken off for inspection of the valves and cylinder bores. I would find the fundamental problem before spending, possibly wasting, money on unnecessary new parts.

I recall reading on this forum that some folk have replaced the DMF with a one piece solid flywheel. I have no idea how it affects vibration or what it costs, but it is worth reseaching.

Your first port of call should be the dealer who sold you the car.