cliffcoggin

Thanks for the update Chris.

Any progress on this James?

You have not answered the question, which was " what brand is it, and ideally where did you buy it?"

That fact alone should stop you right now.

Sam. It is very possible that your car's wiring loom will not have the appropriate wires and connectors for the wheel you want to use. Unless somebody can confirm otherwise you should visually check that such connections do exist before buying a new wheel.

Lucy. If you can not get a service history, whether from the vendor or Audi or a previous owner, I suggest you walk away from the deal. That's not to say the car is definitely dodgy, it may actually be pukka, but without evidence to prove its condition I would not commit several thousand pounds to its purchase. Bear in mind the well deserved reputation of used car salemen being unscrupulous lying scoundrels.

I vaguely recall a similar topic from a year or two ago which I believe was traced to the instrument cluster. I may be wrong so search the forum before taking action. Are there any error messages or warning lights showing?

Thanks for letting us know.

Well done Mike, I admire your perseverance and dedication, not to mention your detailed guidance and reporting here. I hope anybody who follows your hints adds his thanks to this topic. Personally I would not consider spending more than a year in changing, to put it crudely, one radio for another no matter how much better the new one may be, but then my requirements of a car are much less than they used to be years ago.

You are preaching to the converted here David. You need to get your message to the gullible public.

Agreed. It doesn't sound tinny enough to be an exhaust knock.

Follow your nose.

Hmm, I smell a rat. Joking aside, there may well be a mouse, a bird, or some other rodent corpse rotting inside the car. Are there any rodent droppings in the car? In case you are not familiar they resemble black beads about 3 mm across. Mice in particular will try to burrow into upholstery so it is worth taking the seats out of the car for a thorough internal examination of the stuffing. Also look under the carpets and look into any insulation under the dash. The same applies to the boot. Good luck with finding the cause, and do let us know the outcome.

Good man. I wish others were as obliging as you.

Sorry Martin, I will not download anything from an untrusted source. If you would care to put it on Youtube for example I will be happy to watch it.

Why would one push rod be longer than the other? Is the floor pan a different shape on either side?

Kevin. I have merged your two identical topics into one and moved them from the Introductory section to the A3 section. Please do not create duplicate topics.

Sorry to read of your plight Kevin. It sounds like Audi and the gearbox builder are each clutching at straws in their diagnostic guesses, then trying to pass the buck onto the other when the guesses prove to be wrong, all the while happily taking lots of money off you. All I can suggest is that you find another gearbox specialist to diagnose the fault, one who is prepared to back up his diagnosis with a guaranteed fix if you should award him the work. I am not in your neck of the woods so I don't know of anybody suitable. Whether you can recover some money from the clowns you have consulted so far will depend on the success of the final repair. Professional legal advice may be needed on this matter.

I have no idea where it is. Fortunately my Audi was from before the advent of Adblue so I never had to concern myself with it, and my little knowledge of the matter comes from these forums. Essentially the system is known to become clogged with crystals. You will have to search for the information yourself on how to deal with it, or wait for somebody more knowledgeable such as Stevey Y for detailed information.

Search the rest of these forums and you will find that Adblu systems are becoming notorious for the problems they create and the cost of fixing them. You will also find possible solutions.

He did not unlock it he broke it, so it's only right that he pays for a new one.

I have locked this topic as it is a duplicate of one in another section.

Fair enough Matt. You probably know more about the coding aspect than I ever will, however as a chemist I do know enough to realise that one can not treat all batteries the same when it comes to charging. For example lead-acid batteries will tolerate a lot of charging abuse, calcium chloride batteries less so, while lithium batteries (particularly LMC) must be treated with kid gloves when it comes to charging. I assume that aspect is at least part of the reason for battery coding.

While coding a battery to the car may not be a good description, it is the term used by those I have met in the trade. I have no idea how it is done but there is no doubt that the car's software needs to be informed of the batteries capacity, type, and chemistry for the charging circuitry to operate correctly. Long gone are the days of dynamos charging lead-acid batteries to any value from 12 volts to 15 volts with no impact on the battery's performance.

Approved by whom? What sort of guarantee did the approver offer?