cliffcoggin

Clean the oil off the pulleys and fit a new belt. Belts rely on friction to transmit drive so it makes no sense to spray oil on it.

Is this a recent change in behaviour or a problem that has been present since you owned the car?

If the heater was working prior to losing coolant there is a fair chance that the system is now airlocked. Try applying suction to the reservoir to make the air expand and find its way up. Of course that will be a waste of time unless the cause of the coolant loss is rectified first. Was there a high temperature warning or any other symptoms of overheating?

Happy to oblige. Do please let us know the outcome.

Are you aware that water is formed as condensate from all heat exchangers that cool the air passing over them? Refridgerators, freezers, aircon systems all work the same. Whether you call the water stagnant or something else, the odour comes from the mould that grows in it. Most of the green moulds are harmless but smelly, the black and red moulds are less innocuous. Either way the solution is drain the water from the AC as it was designed. Do that and you won't need bombs, perfumes, or other chemicals.

John. The first thing to check is the battery. Get it tested professionally because a simple voltmeter will tell you nothing about its internal condition.

Ian. You have two identical topics running in separate forums which are both attracting replies. Please delete one or the other to avoid any confusion. Let me know if you can not do that and I shall sort it out somehow.

Masking the odour of mould with perfume does not solve the real problem, which is stagnant water. Eventually that water will rot the carpets and rust the steel, so it would be better to get it out of the car.

Do let us know the outcome.

John. Believe what you want, but 911s have positively old fashioned electrical systems compared to your A3, which requires a stable electrical source to avoid erratic and seemingly unrelated electronic problems. The voltage you measured tells you nothing about the real condition of your battery, so Gareth's recommendation to get the battery professionally tested is spot on. That means a high rate of discharge during the test in the region of 250 amps rather than the 0.005 amps of a simple voltmeter.

If you still have the noise Spenser I suggest you take it to an independent VAG specialist to be assessed, and simultaneously inform the car vendor in writing that he may face a claim against him for any repair. It seems from reports on this forum that dealers are increasingly averse to admitting to, and rectifying, faults on the cars they have sold. I guess squeezed margins are leading them to cut corners and become more deceitful if that is at all possble.

Any progress on this Steve?

That's the price we pay for having so many electronic gadgets on our cars.

Ah, the notorious dealer warranty. Sadly, none of them are worth the paper they are written on.

Michael. While the problem may be any of those that Gareth listed, there is also a good chance that the battery may be at fault if it is more than say six years old. The 12.8 volt reading tells you nothing about the internal condition of the battery so I advise you to get it tested professionally. The reason is that the car's electronic systems are sensitive to seemingly trivial power variations.

Anything is possible if you throw enough money at it, but I doubt you would recover the cost of a fully rebuilt engine in the sale price of the car. Alternatively you could buy a secondhand engine from a car breaker at lower cost, but any guarantee he might provide will be essentially worthless. Is that a risk you are willing to take? It's a sad fact of modern life that it is often cheaper to renew damaged goods that it is to repair them. I suggest you look at sellling the car in its present state, after getting quotations for repair to the standard you want.

How do you know it isn't? Is the pedal spongy? Unequal braking as a result of air will try to spin the car but ABS may be masking that. In the absence of answers to my questions all we can do is sit and theorise all day long, but the fact remains that something about your clutch is defective, so either you get under the car and look for yourself, or you put it into a garage for investigation and repair. If it is to be the latter I suggest you find an independent VAG specialist rather than an Audi dealer.

Fair enough. Sorry I can not recommend a specific company. It has been too long since I had a need for a rebuild.

Duncan. An engine rebuild is going to cost several thousand pounds. Are you sure you want to invest that much of your own money rather than pursue the garage responsible for wrecking the car?

I can't help with that. I have no idea who or what Carista is.

Any news on this Damian?

The proper OBD2 tool supposedly will do the job, (often called coding the battery to the car,) but the cheap copies from Amazon and the like usually will not. Coding the battery is essential to avoid damage.

The HPFP relies on fuel to lubricate it, running it dry will cause damage. That's why pre-filling the filter and priming as much as possible with the lift pump before cranking the engine is necessary.

What news on this Gethin?

How is the repair going Adrian?