cliffcoggin

Yes, it's true the battery/car will need coding, however it isn't only VCDS that can do the job. Others can as well, though I don't know specifically which ones.

Yes there are a few of us. That's not to say any are available or able to help with your particular problem at the moment, so best to wait a couple of days. Patience is a virtue.

Search these forums for "satnav update".

Take it elsewhere then.

That makes no sense at all. Either the staff are incompetent or they are trying to defraud you. Either way, take it back and give them another chance, then refer the garage to Trading Standards if you don't get a satisfactory response.

Jules. You can see for yourself how few responses have accumulated in nine years, and probably half of them were questions like yours rather than answers. Nevertheless the regulars here usually recommend an independent over an Audi dealer for a variety of reasons, but you will have to do your own research. I hope you can bring us some good news soon.

Hundreds of people have had those symptoms, but that does not mean the causes were the same as yours. Your best bet would be to get the error codes scanned. I am surprised your garage did not do that in the first place before possibly wasting money on a fuel pump.

Jules. Please let us have a report on whichever one you choose to do the work.

Richard. I have merged your two identical topics.

You have more patience with these P&R merchants than me Gareth. One unanswered reminder from me and they're out.

You're right, I don't know. I expect any garage capable of testing the battery properly will also be able to code one as well.

It could very well be a weak battery, which can cause the symptoms you describe and erroneous error codes, so the first thing to do is get it tested along with the alternator. If it needs to be changed ensure it is coded to the car. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249 Winter always reveals dying batteries.

I'd want it gold plated for that price.

Good.

The ability of a battery to crank the engine at normal speed is not proof that it is in good condition. Only a deep discharge test can do that, so it never hurts to carry out a test. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249 Nevertheless I am inclined to think the ignition switch is at fault here.

That's good to know.

The car port is type 2 only. Good luck finding a working public charge point, and definitely take your own cable. See this for more detail of the different plugs: https://electriccarhome.co.uk/charging-points/charging-point-connector-types/

Your description certainly sounds like an ignition switch fault, but don't entirely disregard the battery. The cold weather always reveals weaknesses in batteries.

That is a type 2. You will be lucky to find a working type 2 charge point in my part of the world, and if you do you will often need your own cable. Having said that, a picture of the charging port of your car would be more helpful because it may be a CCS (combined charging system) having the 7 pin AC connection you showed plus beneath it a separate 2 pin connection for DC. The point being that CCS allows AC charging at home and DC charging in public.

You don't have to rotate the wheel quickly, not does it matter if the transmission is connected. It is the sound and feel of a worn bearing that you are trying to detect, not the resistance to motion.

If your car has a CCS connector you can charge almost anywhere, because CCS has become the dominant charge point connection, invariably with a tethered cable. Type 2 is nearly extinct, while Chaedemo is not far behind.

Cian. I have merged your latest topic with your previous one on the identical topic. Did you read Sid2020's comments?

It will depend on what you pay for electricity and petrol which varies across the country, and also changes with time. I did the calculation a year ago when motorway electricity prices were an extraordinary 83 pence per kWh, which made the electric fuel cost equivalent to petrol. Given that I run an electric car solely for economic reasons I refuse to pay those prices and only charge at home with electricity costing 16 pence per kWh, a fifth of the motorway cost.

Does your mechanic not know how to test a wheel bearing? In essence you jack the wheel up clear of the ground. Roll it while listening for a rumbling or grinding sound, then rock it side to side feeling and listening for movement. Having changed the F/N/S bearing two years ago it's likely the other side needs to be changed.

Check the battery voltage. It is less than 12.4 volts it then needs to be professionally tested, along with the alternator, because it may be dying.