cliffcoggin

Not that I am aware of. A3 cluster faults happen from time to time so it is very possible yours is defective. How much is the repair shop quoting for a test?

Is this the same clunk you posted about on June 11th, and which you failed to respond to Gareth's suggestion?

Samuele. The car should respond much more rapidly than that to an increase in engine speed, so I suggest clutch wear or a fault in the Mechatronic clutch control mechanism. Probably the latter as they have a reputation for being troublesome. 76000 miles is an unusually small mileage for a 17 year old car. Can you be sure it is correct?

Somewhere or other, I don't know where or when, I recall reading of high temperatures causing problems with the instrument cluster. By itself that information is of no use to you, but perhaps it may prompt other folks memories to add some detail.

Ryan. Unless you can be absolutely certain, which seems unlikely in this case, that your car has not been bent I suggest you get the chassis checked and straightened before attaching sub frames or anything else to it. If the the chassis is not correct nothing else will line up and the car will crab along the road, destroy its tyres, and drive like a pig.

A simple voltage check will not reveal an internal fault in the battery. It needs a deep discharge test which involves measuring the voltage while drawing a heavy current. I don't know if Halfords do that.

Alaster. This may seem an odd question but how old is the battery? Intermittant electronic faults can sometimes be caused by a battery that is apparently fine in terms of starting the engine and powering the lights and windows etc, but has a defect that interferes with the correct operation of the ECU.

David. If by "clocks" your mechanic means the instrument panel, it's a known failing in A3s. They can be easily repaired for about £250. There are several companies in England that can do it so I daresay there might be a few in Eire. You or a mechanic would need to remove the panel and post it to the repair companany, who will then fix it and post it back. Search through this forum's history and you will find some reports of owners who have had theirs successfully repaired.

So the problem is dependant on temperature, which may give a clue to somebody familiar with that engine. Unfortunately I am not and don't know what to suggest.

Undoubtedly.

You imply that there is no stall on a hot start. Is that correct?

Congratulations. That's a substantial amount of work and expense on a fourteen year old car.

Aleandra. Flexible pipes are fitted because engine vibration and movement would fracture rigid pipes, which is exactly what happened to yours. By the way, dealership warranties for secondhand cars are not worth the paper they are written on.

Sorry Catalin, your pictures require me to sign in to Google which I will not do.

No it should not need doing now, but it will do in another 30000 miles. If you plan to keep the car that long then it will save you another strip down if you do it now.

So you would buy the car on that assumption, would you?

Do the water pump while the engine is stripped if you have not done so already.

Yes that bush undoubtedly needs to be changed. As a general rule, if there is movement in any rubber bush it is worn out. The static appearance of rubber bushes tells you nothing; the bush must be stressed or loaded to test it.

For oil to blow out of the filler cap there must be pressure in the crankcase. The most likely reason for that, though not the only one, is worn cylinder bores and or pistons. A compression test should be able to confirm that diagnosis. While it is perfectly possible to repair your engine the cost of doing so will not be far off the cost of a rebuilt secondhand engine in which all worn parts have been replaced. Look here to find the cost https://enginesrebuild.co.uk/reconditioned/Audi/A3 Considering your car is 12 years old I doubt that a brand new engine would be worthwhile.

If it did not go into limp mode people would ignore the problem and continue belching nasty emissions into the atmosphere.

Adam. I vaguely recall reading of a similar problem to yours on this forum a year or two back. I can not find the topic myself but it might worth you scanning over the history for it.

Let us know the outcome.

I'd agree there is no servo assistance, and since it is newly repaired I would take it back. Jordan can you hear the servo motor charging the reservoir when the car is first started after standing overnight. It should run about 20 seconds.

It might be the caliper has seized, but I think it more likely there is something jammed against the disc, such as a broken fragment of pad, a stone, or a broken spring clip. If so, it should be easy to remove if you have any tools with you.

Jordan. Just to clarify the problem for me, are saying the pedal is really locked solid, immobile, and impossible to move no matter how much force is applied; or is it just very difficult to push down and lacking any servo assistance?