cliffcoggin

Was the above comment of use to you John? I know you have seen it.

Thanks Adrian. I have seen Erwin mentioned a few times in the forums, but never looked at it.

There is nothing you can do at home to test it. I suggest you remove the cluster and post it to one of the companies that specialise in the testing and repair of such things. ECU Testing is one such company.

Faults could include a blocked heater matrix or a faulty air flap motor amongst others. Best get the vehicle scanned on a decent quality code reader.

Thanks David. So you had to buy a new subscription. This is a nasty underhand practice that is becoming prevalent throughout the motor trade. It verges on deceipt because car sellers never reveal its existence when you buy a car. No wonder car dealers are viewed with suspicion. Arther Daley still lives.

Never did. Another P&R merchant.

If the liquid is definitely not washer fluid then forget about the seals I mentioned. The water leak must be elsewhere.

It sounds as if the steering lock is not disengaging. When turn the ignition off are you still turning the wheel or do you release it first?

Sorry to mislead. What I meant to say was run the washer pump (which is actually under the bonnet) and watch the rear wiper motor and the pipe that runs through it. It is the seals in the wiper motor that often fail.

Was my reply of any help to you Martin?

Given that I can not see which warning light you refer to, I can not advise.

If the car is less than three years old the original guarantee may still be valid, however your signature line shows it be four years old.

Which warning light is showing? Pads? Handbrake? Fluid level? ABS? Brake lights? Look in your handbook.

This is worse than drawing teeth. I give up, and leave it to you Gareth.

Tanzeel. You are only giving us part of the story. Without more detail any diagnosis is going to be incomplete and slow in coming, so how about you tell us more of the background to the problem? Also please reveal how you tested the compression, and where you can feel air coming out?

Do please let us know if you solve the problem.

Thank you Carl. A pity it took a warning to get that response. Whether the mirrors will need coding, or if OBD11 will do the job I do not know.

Possibly the original subscription has expired and you need to buy another.

John. I think you will find that roof mounted driving lights are illegal. There are limits to how high and low such lights may be placed, though I don't know the detalis off hand.

John. Do yourself a favour, throw your meter in the rubbish bin, and then get the battery and alternator professionally tested. Until you can prove that the battery and alternator are in good condition any warning light or message is likely to be false. A defective battery can easily be responsible for all the map and radio problems your car is suffering.

Sean. To add to Magnet's comment, and to answer your question, yes the matrix is part of the coolant system. To use an electrical analogy it is in parallel not in series if that means anything to you. In other words you can have perfectly good flow in the part that keeps the engine cool, but no flow through the matrix part.

Told you so. It is now standard practice for Audi to deny all responsibility and deny all warranty claims for all defects. What was once a prestigious car brand is now a maker of shoddy unreliable junk. O how the mighty are fallen!

Does that mean the engine now starts and the lights work properly?

I seem to recall many similar or related problems to recent models reported in these forums, so it would be worth spending an hour reading them. I know that's not much help, however my car precedes such electrickery so I did not take a lot of notice and can not point you directly at the appropriate topics.

As you wish Michael, but I can state that a simple multimeter voltage reading is useless in determining the condition of a battery. Only a deep discharge test under a heavy load will reveal internal faults, hence my suggestion of a professional test. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249