cliffcoggin

Is thus the same boot on the same car that you reported as fixed an hour ago? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/28341-a4-cab-issues/

Thanks for letting us know.

I can't help on that score. Do please let us know the outcome.

Even that could be an expensive waste of money. Just because another car has the same symptoms as yours does not mean the cause or its solution is the same as yours. Diagnosis is the key to getting a repair at the lowest cost. If your current Audi specialist can not find the problem, find another specialist.

I agree that a 12 tooth pinion would have 11/12ths of the mechanical advantage of an 11 tooth pinion if all other factors are the same, so does the replacement motor have increased torque to compensate?

Brandon. In your position I would not be worrying about a wiper/washer repair when the engine does not work. The engine problem could be far more expensive to solve so surely it would make sense to solve that first?

Mateusz. Does that happen with both keys or only one of them?

Thanks for letting know.

The wrong fluid may well have degraded and swollen the rubber seals in the pump and the ram. If so they will have to be replaced.

Possibly the cooling fans are not turning off at low temperatures, but I would have expected your garage to have spotted that.

Very true. A highly visible anti-theft device like a steering lock in bright yellow may well deter an attempted theft and avoid the damage, however I know from experience that such devices soon become too inconvenient to fit and remove after every journey, not to mention where to store them in the car during a journey. The occasional instance of not fitting it for a few minutes outside the shops eventually becomes not fitting at all.

Raj. Audi recommendations in respect of cambelt and water pump have changed over the years so it is not surprising you can not get consistent answers from dealers. Personally I stuck to the old suggestion of 70000 miles. Nobody suffered an engine failure by servicing it ahead of schedule. When it comes to the gearbox you are on your own. You are pushing more power through it and the rest of the transmission than normal, so you can not rely on normal service recommendations. Yet again, nobody suffered a gearbox failure by servicing it ahead of schedule.

Glad to read the problem was non existant. However I believe you still need to code the new battery to the car despite maintaining 12 volts during the swap.

Very true, but best done out of the tourist season.

My guess, and it is only a guess, is that VCDS will not accept the code for your new battery because it is the wrong capacity. Why have you fitted a 70 Ah battery when Audi wants 92 Ah?

So are you talking about third party cards ready loaded with maps etc? If so, be wary. The reputation of such suppliers varies a lot. Some good, some bad. I first assumed you were trying to copy the navigation system from a source to a card.

I doubt it is an electrical or sensor fault because the electrical system is off when the car sags. It is more likely to be an air leak from the bag, valves, or pipe. I would spray or brush soapy water on all the components and watch for bubbles.

I wasn't aware you could get Audi's navigation system from anybody but Audi. Or do you have something else in mind?

Where?

Thanks for that.

Mansour. Have you come to a decision on this? Were the responses of any help?

I suspect the drop soon after starting is when the thermostat opens and allows cold water to reach the temperature sensor. Perhaps other owners can confirm if this behaviour is normal.

Count yourself lucky it is only a noisy pedal. Audi are selling hybrid cars which irretrievably break down after a year or two. Audi is no longer the highly reputed company it once was.

I don't believe it, but if the test was done by Halfords I am not surprised. Were you supplied with a report of the voltage drop during the test, or an indication of the remaining capacity?

Thanks for putting the recording as an attachment in today's message; I refuse to download anything from untrusted sources. The noise sounds very abnormal, though I have no idea what it could be. Is the braking normal when in motion, with no odd noises or pulling to one side?