cliffcoggin

And in that other thread it was pointed out that the battery needs to be brand new and coded to the car. Until that is done, all the electrical faults and error codes you are suffering are meaningless gibberish.

Ah. That was last year not a few days ago, hence my confusion.

What thread do you mean? The only one I saw was about a fuel pump.

If the car genuinely has a TPMS there must be a reset switch or menu item. Therefore either you have not found the reset, or there is no TPMS and the warning light is false.

This topic comes to mind: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/21817-electrical-fault/ otherwise earch for "instrument panel".

Daryl. It's probably a faulty instrument cluster. If so your options are a new one from Audi or to have it repaired by one of several specialists that you can find on the internet. Search through previous queries on this forum to find others with the same problem. I seem to recall a cost of £200-250.

Alastair. I have no certain knowledge of those clips, but I don't believe Audi would add to the cost of the car by fitting them unless they were necessary. When every penny of manufacturing cost has to be justified to the bean counters the design engineers must have had a good reason to fit them. I also don't understand how the clips got into the sump. Clearly they were not fitted correctly to the rockers by whoever has had that engine apart in the past, but I don't recall a passage between head and sump large enough for the clips to fall through. Of more concern to me is the fact that the engine has been run without lubrication, a potentially destructive operation. Have you driven the car yet, and if so how does it sound and what is the oil consumption?

Well I'm damned. Does that mean the ECU adjusts the injection according the age of the injectors?

Possible culprits are injectors, mass flow meter, CPU amongst many others. I agree with Gareth that diagnosis by somebody knowledgable is better than renewing parts at random.

There are plenty online: https://duckduckgo.com/?q=a3+owners+manual&ia=web

Still under guarantee. Thanks for letting us know.

Let me repeat what I wrote five days ago. "Be wary of any computer diagnosis if there is the slightest chance of a dodgy battery. A3s are known to suffer a variety of seemingly unrelated electronic faults and their associated "diagnoses" if the battery is at all below par."

"they charge like wounded bulls" That's a phrase I must remember. Good luck. Do let us know the outcome.

Good luck and do let us know the final result.

Thanks for the update Ricky. Here's hoping no significant damage has been done while the car was without lubrication.

No. The battery needs to be coded to the car. I don't really know what is involved to do that, but I know it needs to be done.

You could avoid time wasters by publishing your prices openly. People who advertise without prices are, for some of us, also time wasters.

The remap could undoubtedly have been the cause of the problem if it was not matched exactly to the engine, which of course the remappers are not going to admit. The only way to prove the point is to revert to standard settings. Equally it could be any of the other factors mentioned. They should all be investigated. That is going to be expensive if done by Audi; you would do better to find an independant VAG specialist. Whatever the cause, running rich will block the DPF.

David. It depends which seals you mean. If the leak was external to the outside of the engine then it can not have contributed to excess soot in the DPF. On the other hand if the leak was internal then it may have caused the engine to run rich and choke the DPF. You have since rectified the injector problem so a regeneration should have cleared the DPF.

If that is true then you are in for an expensive repair bill to get the car into good condition. I hope you have deep pockets.

Be wary of any computer diagnosis if there is the slightest chance of a dodgy battery. A3s are known to suffer a variety of seemingly unrelated electronic faults and their associated "diagnoses" if the battery is at all below par.

John. I have just remembered the starting problem you mentioned initially. It would be worth getting that properly diagnosed before investing a lot of money in the gearbox in case that also leads to a hefty bill.

That's doubtfull, but it wouldn't hurt to try if you can afford the possible waste if it does not work. The fluid is expensive, though vastly cheaper than the alternative of a full gearbox overhaul.

Grant. I am still concerned that the warning comes on at high revs not low revs, however given your work on the oil pump, and the lack of noise from the engine, it's looking increasingly likely that the pressure switch is defective, but like you I would not want to assume that all is well. Add to that the suspicion that the switch was not in fact changed despite the old invoice I would certainly want a new one fitted before being confident in the engine. If you can not change it yourself your only options are to trailor it or drive it to a mechanic who can. I don't know your local road conditions but if the journey can be done slowly and avoiding any hills I would be tempted to drive it. That's a risk only you can decide on.

One of the clutches has worn out, which means the other is likely to be little better, therefore the whole gearbox needs an overhaul. That's going to hurt the wallet. Any chance of returning the car for a refund from the seller?