cliffcoggin

If the battery is more than five years old it would be worth getting it professionally tested. A dying battery can cause these sort of faults even though it can crank the engine at normal speed.

I'm glad to hear the minor problem of temperature control has been solved. It's a shame it failed to solve the major problem with oil consumption. Changing the engine is a big job so it is worth testing cylinder compressions before committing to the work. If you do need to change the engine be aware that it may also need the donor car's ECU, and also some coding work with VCDS or similar. I am not familiar with the details of the work so wait for advice on this forum from those who do know, or search for professional advice elsewhere. The hoist and another pair of hands will be worth several cases of beer, or even Fosters if that is preferred.

New battery needed. Remember to get it coded to the car. See: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Don't forget to code the new battery to the car with VCDS.

Yes, my mistake. It is for NOX reduction not soot reduction. Sorry to mislead.

I don't know enough of the details to advise. There are a couple of men on the forum who can advise if they should happen to read this.

I imagine that if you take that photo into the part dealer you won't need a part name or number.

I know nothing about the MyAudi application, but you had not mentioned it so I had to ask. I use an opensource app for my own non Audi car and after six years the SOH is 92%, which is more or less what one would expect. Your expectation of a perfect battery when you sell the car is unrealistic. Every battery degrades from the moment it is first used. I don't know at what SOH Audi guarantees the battery for, it will be well below 100%, probably 85% at a guess, but even then it will last for many years afterwards albeit with gradually decreasing range. Treat the battery with care and it will outlast the rest of the car.

Look at this thread: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29630-constant-tone-when-engine-started-but-no-dash-warnings/#comment-124249

Get the battery professionally tested. A dying battery can cause the symptoms you report, such as limp mode, loss of cruise control. When mine was dying I also had loss of radio pre-sets as well.

Does the MyAudi app not suit your model?

At what price?

So the warning is "coolant temperature too high", not "coolant level too high" as you first reported? That's why I was confused.

I am confused, which happens easily. Are you referring to coolant temperature or coolant level?

How long was water sitting in the fuel system Jonny? It may have caused corrosion of the HP pump and/or injectors. Bare in mind too that remapping can itself cause problematic running.

Is the level genuinely high when you get the warning? In other words have you looked at the reservoir? Are you having to top up coolant frequently? Did the problem start after renewal of thermostat and coolant pump or before?

If you can hear or feel it click when energised it is definitely a working relay. If you can not hear or feel anything the question is still open what it is.

Sorry, I somehow missed your mention of an automatic. I reckon the best starting point is to get the car diagnosed on a professional code reader. The cheaper domestic readers are often inadequate to read every available code.

I think picture 4 is the relay rather than the fuse.

Thanks Steve. This is a something we have been trying, often unsuccessfully, to convince owners of for a few years. Any unexplained electronic problem should always start by having the battery tested professionally, which involves measuring the voltage while drawing a large load. A simple multimeter measurement without a load does not reveal faults such as sulphation of the electrodes that causes high internal resistance.

A forum member wanted to change or update his maps a few months ago without paying Audi prices. He reported successfully buying from a company called something like mapsofbritain. I can't find the post and did not bookmark the website so you would have to do your own search.

Well that's excellent news, particularly on a four year old car.

Dabir. The function of the Adblue is to help is to help the soot burn off during regeneration. Unfortunately the Adblue system itself is prone to blockage, which is probably why you saw it counting down despite being full, so DPF regens were not happening, or at least were not effective. Mapping out the Adblue has not solved that problem; it has merely masked it so that you don't see Adblue warnings. Bear in mind that the DPF light is brought on by a pressure switch on the exhaust system, which measures the difference in pressure before and after the DPF. I'd say either the switch is faulty or the DPF is choked. In this case I believe your DPF is choked with soot despite what Carly is telling you about ash levels. The only way to be certain is to have the DPF chemically cleaned.

Glad to hear you are satisfied with the Bridgestones.

Unfortunately Ingrid, unless you can find in the paperwork that came with the car a guarantee covering the cambelt you are fighting a losing battle. The only recourse I can see is legal action in the courts, but that would be horrendously expensive and unlikely to succeed against the resources of a huge company like Audi. Sorry that I can not offer much hope. I wish you luck.