cliffcoggin

Test it as already described earlier in the thread. Look for continuity in the element when switched off, and voltage at the element terminals when switched on.

A simple "Thank you" would have been enough, but evidently even that is too much effort.

I'm glad to read it, but what exactly was the problem, and how did you solve it?

Matthew. I have hidden your duplicate topic.

The voltage is too low. Get the battery tested professionally on deep discharge test equipment.

I knew in general terms how catalytic convertors and oxygen sensors worked, but was not aware of details, and yet I did not feel inclined to delve into technical discussions. Then I came across the following video on a Youtube channel that I subscribe to. It clearly explains the role of cats and O2 sensors in plain language, so I am posting a link here as a reference for everybody on the forum . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Aytf6ARcs8s

It's unfortunate that cars with those dreadful engines are still permitted to be sold. Even worse is that the trade knows about the fault and yet conceals it from buyers. Be aware that you might have a problem at the next MOT test. All the oil the car is burning will be measured as emissions in the exhaust.

Any comment on the above responses Mark? I know you have seen them.

So is it your wife or the car that is in a bodyshop?

The pictures are too dark for me to see any detail. Is the height from wheel centre to wheel arch the same both sides?

Thanks for letting us know. You mentioned a price in dollars so does that mean you imported it from America?

My guess is that it is related to cruise control. If you can post a photo it may be useful to others more knowledgeable than me.

Any comment on the above responses Jake? I know you have seen them.

You think so, or you know so? What other companies have you contacted?

There are several company's doing this sort of work. ECU Testing is one that comes to mind.

It could be any number of things from the sparse information you have given. The only way to know is to have it diagnosed with a code reader and maybe some measurements of such things as injector flow rate and compression.

The best way to achieve the comfort of a Q5 is to buy one, and get rid of the SQ5.

That's gratifying to know. It's possible that repairing the driver's door wiring will restore operation of all the other doors/windows/mirrors, however it would still be worth checking inside them all including the boot lid.

Vagcom I guess is from VAG (Volkswagon Audi Group) so presumably is equivalent to VCDS.

I can't help on that score. A current similar thread came across the same problem and was lucky that repeated attempts at the door handle eventually worked. Note that a new door lock may need to be effectively coded to the car. I am not sure.

VCDS is a high quality scanner that plugs in to the OBD port of the car. It is connected to a computer for scanning of fault codes and diagnoses. There are a few other decent code readers available which are usually used by professionals. There are many cheaper code readers available that are aimed at domestic users, but they generally don't have the discrimination of better units which means they mislead users with wrong codes. I recommend you either buy a good quality equivalent or get the car diagnosed professionally. Don't waste your money on cheap readers.

A good decision. Did you phone the garage?

That's up to you, though I'd still check the other doors. They may not have been used as much as the driver's door, but brittle insulation will affect them all.

The driver's door lock is indeed the master lock, however the A3 is known for broken wires in the rubber bellows between doors and pillars. I suggest you remove all the door cards and inspect the wiring.

That's good news. WD40 should not be considered a long term solution because it congeals, so I suggest you add some ordinary mineral oil.