cliffcoggin

An early Christmas present perhaps?

If you are prepared to open the fusebox cover at the end of the dashboard, you will be able to connect a wire to an ignition switched supply. It's what I did to power a satnav.

Surely the mechanic neighbour who found the leak can also advise on its repair?

My guess is that either a clip or a battery contact is damaged causing an open circuit. You might be able to bend the contacts for better connection, but I know of no way to repair a broken clip. As you have only the one defective key it is probably time to save some cash for a new one.

Craig. Are you sure it is coolant, not screen wash fluid or brake fluid? Coolant leaks are normally worse when hot because the pressure increases. How much is the level dropping in the coolant header tank over a week?

Sorry Lamar. I don't download anything from strangers. If you put the video on a public platform I'd be happy to watch it there.

Callum. How do you know it has lost its gas? There may be another fault such as compressor drive failure, which I assume is a belt. Whether the AC should have developed any sort of fault in two years is debatable. The fact remains that it has and if the guarantee does not cover its repair you will have to foot the bill yourself.

I had those symptoms a few years ago on mine, together with loss of cruise control and loss of air conditioning. Turning off the engine for half an hour restored normal operation. The problem was caused by a defective battery, so fitting a new battery solved all the problems entirely. I am not saying that is definitely what is wrong with yours, but it has become apparent to me since then that defective batteries can cause all sorts of strange electronic faults that do not show up on code readers, a fact confirmed by the mechanic who rectified mine. What makes it harder to diagnose is that a simple voltage test of the battery will not show anything untoward; it needs a deep discharge test, which most owners do not have the equipment for, to reveal the fault. If you can not find any other fault and if your battery is more than four years old I suggest you get a new one, not a secondhand one. It will have to be coded to the car by the installer.

I recall a similar topic here within the last couple of years if you care to look through forum history. I have a feeling it was related to a faulty instrument cluster but have no certainty of that. Other than that, get the car scanned with a decent professional grade reader.

Ujku. This topic is five years old and Nervous never returned to update us he promised, so I suggest you start a new topic of your own with a lot more detail of the symptoms.

I have no idea what you mean by that. Please explain.

I told you how to test it three days ago.

Alan. Try a car breaker. Many are online and will post the part to you.

As James said, if you really love the car and can afford another engine do it, but be aware that the engine will cost much more than the car will be worth after being fixed.

PS I meant F19 not F9. Slip of the fingers.

I have no idea what circuit the F9 fuse protects, which is why I suggested the test I mentioned previously. Have you done it yet?

Some fuses are permanently live for the purpose of powering such things as interior lights and alarm for examples. I suggest you remove your F9 fuse and check every electrical appliance and system to find what no longer works. That should narrow down the field of culprits. If it proves to be the CD player its supply needs to be moved to a fuse that is ignition controlled.

I don't know the part number, but I do know a new one will be expensive. Have you considered a secondhand part from a car breaker? Many breakers are online nowadays and will post the part to you.

I can't really suggest anything except perhaps a poor earth connection at the coil pack. Beyond that I have no idea.

You won't know until you look.

Does the car have a dual mass flywheel? If so, that could well be the problem. The springs have a tendency to break allowing the secondary flywheel to rattle.

So it's getting worse. What do you expect?

Sadly Jade, you have been misled about the glow plugs. They are only used to start the engine, and have no function once the engine has fired and is running. Your garage should know this even if the diagnostic scanner indicated a glow plug fault. I leave you to draw your own conclusions. There are numerous possible causes for the juddering and the engine management light, and we are unlikely to find the right one purely from your written descriptions of the symptoms unless you have some technical knowledge and are ready to get your hands dirty. Is that possible? However there is one question that might obviate a lot of investigation, even though it may sound irrelevant. How old is the battery?

Looking OK is not good enough. When you take them off measure their length. Old springs will be weak and short.

Time to find a mechanic who knows what he is doing Arron. Three of us on the list have said repeatedly that at least one of the ball joints is clapped out, and there are suspicions about other parts of the suspension and steering. What more can we say.