cliffcoggin

Thanks for letting us know.

I am not sure what is not working so please clarify whether you mean the electronic fob, the metal key, or the central locking mechanism within the car.

Fair enough, but if you don't mean a delayed response what do you mean?

Perhaps I am misunderstanding what you meant by "taking a while to get some bite." Please explain.

The springs (there are several of them,) separate the two lumps of metal that constitute a DMF, thus providing some rotary cushioning between them. The arangement is similar to those in a clutch friction plate if you are familiar with one of those. When one or more springs break, the two lumps of metal (the dual masses in other words) smash against each other, which is why you hear a rattle initially that soon becomes a knock as more metal disintegrates.

Which is precisely why neither pads nor discs should need to be changed. If you have a delayed response when pressing the brake pedal I suggest the fault is elsewhere, such as an air lock, a partially seized caliper, a defective servo etc. Be sure what the cause of the problem is before throwing money at the car.

It's possible a spring has broken in the DMF, though other possibilities should be considered before booking it for repair. It's a common fault in old DMFs, and will inevitably get worse. It would be worth getting the clutch done at the same time, even though it will add a lot to the cost, much of which is the labour charge involved in removing the gearbox.

Is it a manual transmission with a dual mass flywheel?

Light scoring should not affect braking effect once the pads have bedded in. Are you sure you don't have a soft pedal caused by air? Or perhaps a faulty servo? It would be worth taking it back to the dealer who sold you the car for rectification before the guarantee, such as is, runs out. If you are concerned about the degree of wear you could measure the disc thickness.

I don't understand. If you have found one online why do you ask here?

You can not be sure, which is why you need an alternative opinion from somebody you do trust. Do you or an aquaintance know of a Audi specialist who can be trusted, preferably an independant specialist rather than an Audi dealer? I can recommend such an independant company in Biddenden, Kent if you are prepared to travel that far.

The price of a new fob battery will not break the bank, and would eliminate the obvious and most likely fault.

Cath. The dealer's incompetance in diagnosing and rectifying the fault is surpassed only by his audacity in offering further work as a courtesy. In my estimation he should be resolving the fault without further charge, but can you now trust him? I would take the car elsewhere for another opinion on what is wrong with it before further discussion with your dealer.

If such a thing is possible I imagine the Audi dealer you are buying from would be the best guide.

Paul. Assuming you refer to a manual gearbox, the most likely cause is a defective clutch. Is the "bite point" of the pedal approximately half way? Are there any signs of leakage at the master and slave cylinders? How old is the clutch in terms of mileage? Does the engine rev up more than expected under load?

I don't even see a question.

In addition to Gareth's suggestion of a broken pipe, check the rear wiper motor for leaks. The water runs through the motor and has been known to leak past defective seals.

Stephen. A defective battery is well known to cause a variety of electrical and electronic faults, so in fact your problem is absolutely unrelated to Hax's problem. Please do not assume that because your car shows the same symptoms as somebody else, it has the same fault. I suggest you start a topic of your own. In the meantime I am locking this topic to avoid it being derailed by irrelevencies.

Lauren. You did well to go to a specialist. An Audi dealer would have been much more expensive. Although your frequent long fast journeys should keep the DPF clean, there is no knowing whether the previous owner did the same, so the DPF could have been partly choked when you bought the car. I see no alternative but to get the work done no matter what the cost. It's worth pursuing a claim against the dealer who sold you the car and/or the RAC, but I don't hold much hope for a successful outcome, as you would have to prove the problem is more than fair wear and tear.

If you read the entire thread you will find the problem, the solution, and the cost all thoroughly explained'

Boris. Have you ground the crankshaft journals to smaller dimensions? In practice it is difficult to measure either the clearance or the bearing accurately, however one can accurately measure the journal diameter with a micrometer. I suggest you tell Audi what journal size you are dealing with and let Audi worry about the colour.

Fair enough. I have not seen one.

My A3 had two fuseboxes so it would not surprise me if yours also had two.

I see no reason to change the reservoir if only the level sensor is defective. Have you searched the forum history for similar topics? I seem to recall there have been several threads on this subject.

To clarify: there are two clutches in a DSG gearbox. One for 1/3/5/7 gears, and another for 2/4/6 and reverse. Two clutches allow for rapid gearchanges by preselecting the next gear before the current gear is released. It's a complex system as you may imagine. I am surprised the clutch slip was not noticed at the service. Did you mention the problem when you took the car in? I suggest you get the gearbox tested, preferably by a specialist gearbox company rather than Audi, as it is possible that it will need to be rebuilt or replaced. If so, the specialist will only charge a small fortune whereas Audi will charge a large one. A secondhand gearbox is something I would be very wary of. One that fits your car will be a similar age and likely have only a short life before it developes similar problems.