cliffcoggin

When the battery of my 2007 car was changed it had to be coded.

The new battery will certainly need coding to the car, even if it does not solve the steering problem.

This problem crops up from time to time on the forum. Look at this topic for information on a successful repair: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/15463-front-door-wiring-loom-replacement-and-locks/#comment-54350

I agree the gear ratios are likely to be different in a 4 cylinder car. I would be very wary of buying a secondhand gearbox from outside Finland via Ebay unless it had a cast iron guarantee that included return carriage. Over here we have car breakers (aka dismantlers or recyclers,) who often sell parts on line. Is there such a system in Finland, or do cars have to be taken to official Audi recyclers? I think your best option would be to find a specialist gearbox rebuilder who will renew broken parts and fit new bearings. Such companies exist here so I daresay you will have them too in a country with a long rallying tradition.

Mike. Before delving any deeper into passenger doors I suggest you re-examine the driver's door wiring because it controls the ability of other doors to unlock. You could think of it as the master switch for the other doors. If you do have to remove the passenger door cards you should then be able find and pull the link rod that operates the lock.

You have nothing to lose by digging out the switch and testing it. It occurs to me that window and door lock problems are often caused by the breakage of the wires passing through the tubular bellows between the door hinges. If the wires for your alarm disable switch also pass along the same route they may also suffer the same fate.

Gilly. I cannot offer any constructive help except to say the switch worked to disable the interior alarm on mine on the few occaisions I used it when leaving the dog in the car.

Jon. Thanks for clarifying the matter and for adding the additional explanation. Details make all the difference. To summarise the latest fault: the engine warning light came on, garage removed and refitted the EGR, light went off. Is that correct? If so it suggests to me that something about the EGR or its wiring and connectors was faulty. That would be a much more probable and common problem that a faulty intercooler. (I am dismissing the idea of a faulty engine control module because it would cause other unrelated warnings.) Unfortunately a probability is not the same as a certainty, nevertheless I would not be spending money on an intercooler while there is doubt about the EGR. In your position, and assuming the engine is performing properly and without any warning lights, I would continue to use it normally to see what happens. Encourage the EGR to regenerate if you get the opportunity with a continuous fast run for 20 minutes. One last question. Is the battery in good condition? Meaning did you have any problems starting the car last winter, or any unusual warning lights on the dash, or any other electrical problems of any sort. It is known that faulty batteries can create all sorts of running problems and false warning lights.

Jon. Forgive me for saying so, but you and your garage are doing exactly what I advised against in your previous topic, namely replacing parts at random which is costing you a fortune and failing to solve the problem. For goodness sake take the car to a garage that knows what it is doing, preferably an independant Audi specialist.

Now we know the car has done only 25000 miles I would not expect the clutch to have worn out in that distance with normal driving. However it must be admitted that its treatment in the first 17000 miles is unknown, so for that reason I reckon the chances of getting a free replacement under guarantee are negligible, unless that guarantee specifically includes the clutch. Like Gareth I suggest accepting the Audi offer of compromise whereby you only pay for labour.

A clutch is one of those items that are expected to wear, just like brake pads and tyres, so it is hardly surprising it is not covered by warranty. Whether yours should have worn out in less than three years is debateable, it depends how hard it has been driven (which you have not mentioned) and how many miles it has covered (which again you have not mentioned). Without more information I am not prepared to take sides on the matter.

Gareth. Can you, as a moderator, see when people revisit the forum after their initial query? I am interested to know whether our questionners who never provide follow up information have actually seen our reponses or if they are simply too ungracious to aknowledge them.

It sure sounds like DMF failure. How old is the car?

Jon. The first thing to emphasise is to not take the error code literally. Cheap code readers are known to give misleading results, so unless yours is a professional quality reader it can not be relied upon. It is not a field I am knowledgeable about so I suggest you wait for a more informed response here or take the car to a garage that has a good auto electrician. The second point to make is to not replace parts at random like your garage has done. Just because another person solved a similar sounding problem with a new brake light switch does not mean his solution will work for you. You might strike lucky, but more likely is that you will throw good money after bad.

When buying goods or services you get to choose two out of three options: cheap, fast, and good. You can never have all three.

£380 parts and labour? Bite his arm off.

Good to hear you have a working car again. Fingers crossed it stays that way. Afraid I can't help with TPMS.

Thanks for letting us know.

You gave not mentioned what engine you have, but possibly there is a split in the hose connecting the turbocharger.

That does not happen with factory fitted equipment, so you must have an after market piece of kit that has been wired wrongly. The power supply for the satnav needs to be taken from a circuit that is switched by the ignition key. Open the driver's side end of the dashboard to reveal the fuseboard. Using a meter, find a suitable fuse and attach your satnav power lead to it. If the prospect of poking around your car's electrical system is a bit daunting, take it to an electrician. You could do an awful lot of damage if you are not competent to find and make electrical connections.

Such words are cheap. Let him him put his money where his mouth is and have it tested first.

I would want to see the service history to find out what was done after the MOT failure to correct the problem. That history should also show whether the cambelt was changed a few thousand miles ago. If not I would walk away from sale because it will cost over £700 to get it done, and it does need to be done.

I see Andy has two identical topics open at the moment. Is it possible to combine them into one?

I too am a little suspicious so I agree with Gareth that it would be reasonable to ask the seller to retest the car, even if it is at your expense. Generally the 2 litre diesel should easily last in excess of 100000 miles, even 150000 with care, but it depends how hard it has been driven and how well it has been maintained. Am I being cynical in suggesting that because Quattros have an image born of rally success it must be tempting for drivers to emulate that style of driving?

Then how about giving us some clues as to what you have investigated in the two months since posing your question. Presumably you have looked into tyre condition, tyre balance, steering joints, suspension joints, wheel bearings, rack mountings etc. Let us know what you have found to give us some useful information to work on.