cliffcoggin

Note that some electric cars can be reset by closing and locking the doors for a fixed time before unlocking and trying again. In my Smart EQ that time is 15 minutes, and not a second less or the timer will not allow a reset. It would be worth looking in the handbook for a similar action for your car.

William. Make sure you piggy back onto a fuse that is on a circuit switched by the ignition key, unless your dashcam has a suitable battery within it to maintain power when the car is not running, else it will flatten the car battery.

Ah, the joys of crumbling orange foam and dog hair. One of my wife's previous cars stank of curry as soon as the heating was turned on in winter, and no amount of cleaning by us could get rid of it. A professional valeter eventually found the problem underneath the carpet, which had to be removed for cleaning of its underside. That was £30 very well spent.

Maybe so, but what do you want to get out of the dispute? A grovelling apology? A discount on the price? A full refund? Condemnation from the ASA? Your answer should dictate the action you take.

While you could involve the ASA, that alone would not resolve the financial aspect of the matter. You would be better advised to approach the dealer for a refund, but be certain to have incontrovertible proof of the true specification of the car as well as its claimed spec. If the dealer is as big a company as you say there is a good chance it will make you a reasonable offer.

It's your money to spend as you want, but I do not believe the problem is temperature related.

Leigh you won't get a reply from Alan because he has not returned to the forum since the day he joined 18 months ago. I have no doubt your problem is the same as his, namely the failure the seal in the wiper motor. You need a new wiper unit.

Thanks for letting us know.

Now you tell us! Is there any other relevant information you have withheld?

Did your garage present any evidence to support its diagnosis? A print from its diagnostic machine for example? If you really don't trust the garage, take the car elsewhere for a second opinion.

A pity you did not mention all the other work in your first message, though I am still not clear exactly what has been done and what your phone has to do with it. I suggest you get the car scanned on a decent code reader.

Any news for us Tyler?

That surprises me. Good luck and don't let the traction battery level go too low.

If you can not hear the solenoid then it can't be working, so you will need to use the cord for access to the charging port until a repair is done.

Whether the light is red, yellow, purple, green or pink means nothing to me. As long as you are satisfied that the engine has oil which is being pumped around you will probably be OK.

Beany. Have you established whether the light is for oil level or oil pressure as Gareth asked? It it refers to pressure it is likely a faulty sensor and you drive at at your own risk. It it refers to oil level the car should not be moved another inch. In fact the engine should not even be fired up until you have made certain there is actually some oil in the sump. To my mind it would be foolish to use the car until you have some certainty about its lubrication.

Can you hear the solenoid unlocking the flap? I believe there is supposed to be an emergency release cord in the boot but have no idea where exactly it is located. Look behind removable liner panels.

Agreed. Let's hope James remembered to check his tyres and water level beforehand.

Which means James paid £140 for peace of mind and a half hour of labour while a long way from home. I would probably have done the same in his circumstances.

Possibly, but I am not certain.

Was that new battery coded to the car? It needed to be. VCDS or equivalent can do the coding. I don't know about cheaper code readers.

Yes. Get the battery professionally tested on deep discharge equipment. A dying battery can cause limp mode to come and go. If a new battery is needed it is essential to get it coded to the car.

Why the interest in the parts cost if the insurance company is paying?

I can't comment on the diagnosis, but if it is a matter of a simple clip it would be worth looking at a secondhand part from a breaker's yard or Ebay.

If I may add to Gareth's comments, the A3 tyre damage shows the sidewall to be cut, not the tread. That's usually caused by metal that has fallen off a lorry rather than an inherent defect in the tyre, so I'd say you were just unlucky it happened so soon after getting into the car. The situation with the A6 is surprising in a car only three years old with only 28000 miles on the clock. As the RAC picture shows, it may be caused by something trivial or something spectacularly expensive. I hope the guarantee on the car covers everything. Don't forget the option to reject the car as Steve mentioned.