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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    So did you get the sidelights to work? I've never heard of rain lighting. Can you explain further?
  2. cliffcoggin
    The most likely culprits are the CV (constant velocity) joints. Does the knock become worse when the steering is at full lock?
  3. cliffcoggin
    Neil. I imagine that has all the necessary connections. The next step is to inspect and test the wiring harness to the door.
  4. cliffcoggin
    Simon. If you frequently have a heavy load in the boot it would be worth investigating whether upgraded springs are available, and of course change both for a matched pair as Gareth mentioned.
  5. cliffcoggin
    If that means you are unsure which fuse to use you should choose carefully. You need to find one that is not permanently live (i.e. only comes on with the ignition,) else you will flatten the battery overnight. Your plan of using a piggy back fuse is a good one as it maintains the principle of one device per fuse. Check that you can close the fusebox cover once the extra fuse is fitted. Doing precisely this job on my A3 some years ago was what led me to this forum.
  6. cliffcoggin
    If the 7.5 amp fuse supplies some other circuit in addition to the satnav I suggest you leave it, or even uprate it depending on the total electrical load it carries.
  7. cliffcoggin
    Does courtesy not exist any more?
  8. cliffcoggin
    Did the new lock have an integral switch, or did you attach the old switch. The other thing to look at is the wiring between door and pillar. The wires had a habit of breaking in the older A3s.
  9. cliffcoggin
    Kelly. For information there are two stages to starting an engine: 1/ cranking, (or turning over,) when the starter spins the engine to suck air and fuel into it; 2/ ignition, (or firing,) when the fuel/air mixture in the engine ignites. Yours is clearly not turning over so likely it is an electrical fault somewhere between the switch and the starter relay. I doubt that the starter motor itself is faulty because the instrument lights stay bright. Your plan to recover it a garage is a good one.
  10. cliffcoggin
    An internet search found this place at Barnard Castle, which is a county away from you. Perhaps you can find others a bit closer. https://www.carrosserie.co.uk/
  11. cliffcoggin
    In that case I would agree a servo fault. Quite how to fix it I am not sure, so let's wait for other opinions.
  12. cliffcoggin
    You'll be lucky. Bear in mind that the more it slips, and it will get progressively worse, the more fuel the car will burn.
  13. cliffcoggin
    Wear of the tyre shoulders is commonly caused by the wrong amount of toe-in or the tyre pressure being too low. The toe-in is easily corrected at decent tyre shops, though it is a pointless adjustment unless you first ensure that all the steering and suspension joints & bushes are in top condition with no wear or slack.
  14. cliffcoggin
    You are right that the clutch is slipping, which is not surprising if it is the original clutch.
  15. cliffcoggin
    It's refreshing to see praise for Audi nowadays. Thanks for letting us know.
  16. cliffcoggin
    Does the brake pedal feel spongy when pressed hard while the car is at rest? If so, it would be worth eliminating the possibility of air in the hydraulic system by bleeding it. Use fresh hydraulic fluid as old fluid can degrade as it absorbs moisture from the air.
  17. cliffcoggin
    I have no idea about cost. Look on Ebay for an indication, though I would be wary of the quality of anything bought via Ebay. If you bought the car from a dealer take it back and let him bear the cost. If it was a private purchase then it is your responsibility. Either way I am curious why anybody would buy a car that is making smoke without first investigating the cause and cost of repairing.
  18. cliffcoggin
    Robert. If there are no visible coolant leaks around the engine, it is likely the EGR (exhaust gas recycle) cooler is leaking internally.
  19. cliffcoggin
    Fair enough Richard, you had not initially made clear how knowledgable you were about towing. If you are putting the correct weight on the tow ball and the car springs are unduly compressed then doubtless they need to be changed. Whether standard or uprated springs are required I do not know, but as Gareth advised, the original springs will likely be weaker and shorter than they were when new.
  20. cliffcoggin
    Aid. The click is not normal, but exactly what causes it depends on how much you disturbed when replacing the clutch. The possibilities I can think of are: 1/ Loose master cylinder nuts. 2/ Insecure hydraulic hose between master and slave cylinders. 3/ Loose slave cylinder nuts. 4/ Incorrectly fitted release bearing. 5/ Incorrectly fitted release lever. There may be other causes I have not thought of, so let us wait for other opinions.
  21. cliffcoggin
    Richard. How much weight are you putting on the tow ball? If I recall correctly from my days of towing a boat it should be about 75 kg. You really should look up the regulations regarding towing to ensure you balance the load correctly, as well as the braking requirements and load limits for the trailor.
  22. cliffcoggin
    Stephen. Whether the prices you mentioned are reasonable or not is irrelevant. The fact is those are the going rates, so if you can not, or will not, pay them the only option I see for you is to learn to fix the clutch yourself. Naturally that will involve purchasing some expensive tools and equipment, then attending some sort of training course so you know what and how the tasks are performed, and finally you will need premises on which to do the work. Does that put the garage costs into perspective?
  23. cliffcoggin
    Is it fair to expect a car costing £2000 to not need any work on it? To my mind that is totally unreasonable.
  24. cliffcoggin
    Kate, Justin. Do you realise this thread is three years old, and that Arron has not replied with a solution? (In fact he never bothers to inform us of answers to his questions.)
  25. cliffcoggin
    I have no personal experience of doing the job, but I know it is done during engine manufacture to remove swarf and grinding dust. Presumably it also done by engine reconditioners so perhaps that avenue is worth investigating.
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