cliffcoggin

That's a good point about a soldered joint possibly breaking as it flexes, but wouldn't a twisted joint also become unravelled when flexed and vibrated despite being covered with heat shrink tubing? I have a deep distrust of twisted wire joints, and have always felt a soldered joint to be more durable.

Thanks Erik. It is good to read that the forum has provided a solution for you.

If I recall correctly the interior light switch has three positions: automatic, off, and manual. Are you sure you have the auto position selected?

I haven't the faintest idea. The cost will depend on which bush needs to be changed and whether you are going to do the job yourself or pay somebody to do it for you. The first task surely is to identify what precisely is wrong before making a decision on a solution. I suggest you get somebody to wriggle the steering wheel to and fro while you look and feel the bushes holding the steering column (I think there are two of them), then do the same to the steering linkage under the car including the rack mounting points. If the sound does not give away the location the vibration of a creaky joint sometimes will.

I don't recognise your description "belt driven simulator wheel", but a noise when turning the steering wheel could be one of the bushes supporting the column or one of the rubber bushes in the steering linkage.

I suspect it is simply jammed from being slightly twisted. If wriggling alternate sides does not work I can only suggest brute force,

That suggests the wheels have been changed for a non-standard size. I looked online for A3 tyre pressures and did not see your particular size mentioned.

If you got a handbook with the car it should be in there.

Just over £700 is what I paid at an Audi dealer three years ago. The high cost is the reason owners delay getting it done. If it proves necessary to add the cost of a new wiper motor and door lock actuators you could be looking at a repair bill of over £1000.

I agree with Steve's advice, though for the door locking I suggest a new battery for the key fob as a first step. Be prepared for a £700 bill for the cambelt and water pump!

If you can't trace the leak by listening I suggest you locate the vacuum hose under the bonnet and follow it to the vacuum pump or manifold at one end and the servo at the other. Check for loose connections, splits, etc.

A vacuum leak sounds a reasonable diagnosis, but I am puzzled that you hear it from a dashboard air vent. Have you listened under the bonnet?

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Happy Christmas to all the regulars here including Gareth, Ken, and the two Steves. Cliff.

Mantas. Are you really running on your second set of injectors in a few months yet the fault is still present? If so I suspect there is nothing wrong with either set of injectors, and that the fault lies elsewhere. Injectors are extremely reliable and rarely fail. Please confirm whether your engine is petrol or diesel. The type of fuel is not clear from the above comments. Please tell us also: -how many miles (or kilometres) the car has done, -whether it has been properly maintained during its life, -whether there are any other symptoms apart from the shaking and associated knocking.

Glad to hear the tyres are OK. Please explain more about the brake fault. 5 mm wear is extraordinary, nevertheless the wear should be uniform. Was the disc loose or was the pad loose?

Many decades ago I had remould tyres fitted to the first vehicle I owned because I could not afford new tyres. Unfortunately a section of tread partially detached and at high speed it slapped the road surface with a sound much like the one Marlon describes, yet when stationary it retracted back to the carcass and was barely visible. Now I am not saying Marlon has the same problem as remould tyres are no longer sold, but it shows that minor or nearly invisible tyre faults can have dramatic effects.

Well here's a third who shares that opinion Gareth and Ken. I understand questioners doubting or even rejecting some of the advice received from the regulars here, after all we are unknown strangers with no proven reputation or experience, but it irritates me that rarely is there any feedback by way of resolutions to their problems, and still less any thanks for the time and effort we contribute. Perhaps I am also too old and cynical to cope with the ungracious demands of those who expect instant answers at the touch of a keyboard. Cliff.

There is too much potential for sucking back air through a one way bleed pipe to convince me it is a reliable method. If the fit of the pipe on the nipple is poor, air will be drawn back. If the thread on the nipple is worn, air will be drawn back. If the check valve is sticky, air will be drawn back. The only reliable manual bleed method I know of is a two man operation in which one presses the pedal while other wields a spanner on the nipple. In essence: fit a hose to the nipple with the lower end in a clear glass jar, loosen the nipple, press the pedal to the floor and hold it there, tighten the nipple, release the pedal, top up the reservoir. Repeat until air bubbles can no longer be seen emerging from the hose. The spanner man controls the process and commands the other when to raise and lower the pedal using clear orders like "up" and "down", which the pedal man repeats when he has carried out the order. There are various pressure and suction systems available which can automate the process, but having never used any of them I can not comment on their effectiveness. You are rightly concentrating on getting the air out, but have you considered that the spongy pedal may be caused by defective seals in one of the cylinders?

You presume too much in thinking I am agitated. Since you are clearly desperate to believe whatever the dealer tells you I'll withdraw from the discussion. Good luck with your purchase.

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In a word: YES. How much more clearly can I state it? Neither engine cleaner nor new oil will rectify a faulty clutch/gearbox. At best they will only mask the fault for a while until the guarantee expires, and then it is your problem.

The instrument console is prone to faults it seems. Several companies will repair them for less than £200, which to my mind is a better option than a breaker's item, and far cheaper than a new one. I can't help regarding the tuning, though it strikes me as odd that you would take the car from Norfolk to Scotland to get the work done.

If the dealer was so convinced an oil change would solve the problem he should have done it himself. That he did not do so is evidence that you made the right decision to walk away.

Try conductive paint. I have no idea how effective it is but you have nothing to lose.