cliffcoggin

Emily. I fully agree with everything Magnet has mentioned. The voltage reading and the lack of starting problems are not sufficient evidence nowadays to prove a battery is healthy, therefore it remains suspect in my view until professionally tested. (I don't count Kwikfit as professionals in this respect.) I really don't believe I can add anything new to this topic until a proper battery test has been done.

Two identical topics merged into one. Please do not duplicate topics.

Sorry Shaz, but as usual with audio recordings it is impossible to hear anything unusual. If the noise started after new tyres were fitted it may simply be they are generally noisier than the previous tyres, however it would not hurt to have them balanced again. It is not unknown for new balance weights to fly off.

I have merged two identical topics. Please do not duplicate topics.

How old is the 12 volt battery?

Listening to audio recordings has always been a problem for us. We each become attuned to the noises our own car makes, so when an unusual noise occurs the human brain can mentally filter out the normal noises and hear the abnormal noise. Unfortunately when a stranger hears an audio recording he hears every noise and can not distinguish the abnormal one.

Emily. I see you have looked the forum today. Any news?

That moisture is significant, and may indicate corroded contacts. There should be no moisture at all if the lamp is properly sealed. You could try spraying with contact cleaner, but I am not optimistic it will cure the problem.

Before spending any money it would be worth confirming a blockage by independantly flushing the heater matrix and the main radiator with water.

To be clear, the warning message refers to oil temperature, while the guage shows coolant temperature. It seems to me that the oil is cool because the engine is cool, so the real problem lies in your engine cooling system. Put that right and the oil temperature will sort itself out. The most likely problem is a faulty thermostat, though there are other possible causes.

I have merged this topic with the original from Siyab to maintain continuity and provide all the relevent information.

Ah, it seems I misunderstood. Sorry. If it is correct James that you are leaving the car at home while you are abroad why not just leave the old battery in the car until you return, and then renew it? If you are going to renew it anyway it does not matter if it discharges while you are away. Or have I still not understood the situation? Some more detail would help.

Jamie. Your symptoms suggest there is no circulation in the cooling system, yet your garage has changed the obvious components, so I wonder if there is a physical blockage. Consider this possibility: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=39ngHGvMzEg It usually only affects the cabin heater, but there is no reason why it can not affect other parts of the system.

Yes I appreciate that. I too am baffled because I would expect Japanese cars to be able to receive Japanese radio broadcasts, which happen to be much the same range of frequencies as we use in Britain. If you can find the model name or number of the radio perhaps you can get some data from the internet.

I doubt that being a Japanese import is relevent because this page: https://mytuner-radio.com/radio/country/japan-stations/frequency/fm tells us that 73-107 MHz is is use there. Have you tried "auto seek" or whatever the right term is? Have you tried manual tuning? Is there a second FM band you can switch to? Have you got a filter turned on to detect only strong signals?

I am puzzled. Why would you want a different battery when taking the car abroad? As for "I’ve read that AGM batteries need to be kept on charge." that is absolute nonsense. You treat an AGM battery the same as any other car battery.

All the more reason to contact the supplier of the charge point. As a matter of curiosity what brand is it?

Trev. The CP pin in the plug is shorter than all the others to ensure it is the last to make contact when plugged, and first to break contact when unplugged. (The CP circuit is the control for the charging operation.) That is why you can replicate the fault by only half plugging. Therefore while there may be a problem with the CP connection, I reckon it is more likely to be a fault in the charge point and you should recall its installer.

Unfortunately I doubt anybody in the forum can help beyond what has been written in the linked topic, because there is clearly a major flaw in the design and implementation of Audi's mild hybrid technology. Audi will resist any suggestion of responsibility for the problem, nevertheless I suggest you report the problem in writing to the company so that it can not deny awareness of the fault if there should ever be a resolution to it in the future. Sorry to say that your daughter has been sold a lemon, and at the moment there appears to be no legal redress.

Thanks.

How about an update Mustofa.

Janet. Assuming the mild hybrid technology on the A3 is the same as the A7, then you are not alone. See this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/

Ray. I have moved your question to a topic of its own to avoid conflicting responses in its original thread.

Siyab. Watch this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IJAScg6JrYI

I can't answer that with certainty. My own electric car will creep once drive is engaged, just like an old hydraulic automatic transmission, but my unsubstantiated impression is that the motor is only powered once the brake pedal is released.