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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    I don't know, I have never done the job. Go round the engine and check all the connectors that may have been disturbed or strained when you took the plugs out. If that doesn't resolve the problem I can only suggest to consult a car electrician.
  2. cliffcoggin
    There is likely to be a connector plug on the electrical circuit that has pulled loose or even completely apart.
  3. cliffcoggin
    I can't help in regard to those codes, but in view of a slipping clutch, an oil leak, and a noisy turbo I'd say you have been sold a pig in a poke. Take it back.
  4. cliffcoggin
    Jack. That belt is far too loose and is clearly jumping sprocket teeth. Since the belt also drives the camshaft there is a real risk of damaging the valves or the piston crowns, which would entail a horrendously expensive repair bill. Do not attempt to run the engine, or even turn it over on the starter, until it has been put right. If that means towing it to a garage or workshop, so be it, but the engine must not be run.
  5. cliffcoggin
    Jamie. A dodgy battery will cause all sorts of electrical problems even if the alternator is putting out a good charge. By the sound of it your vendor has put on the cheapest thing available, possibly even a secondhand battery. To not then secure the battery is compounding the problem because side loads during cornering are then taken on the cables. Batteries have securing straps for several very good reasons.
  6. cliffcoggin
    Look further down the list and you will see a recent thread on the cost of clutches. They are expensive enough to make pursuing your vendor worthwhile.
  7. cliffcoggin
    I really don't know if replacing the DPF alone will cure the problem. The lack of a service record is suspicious, as is the oil leak from an engine of only moderate mileage. Whether the cause is merely a defective injector or a totally clapped out engine, the repair will not be cheap. It could be more a question of whether it will cost a small fortune or a large one. I suggest before you make a decision on disposal, that you get the engine assessed by an Audi expert, preferably an independent rather than an Audi dealer with a vested interest.
  8. cliffcoggin
    Hello Anon. What's the mileage of the car? Are no entries in the service record, or is simply entirely "missing"?
  9. cliffcoggin
    Pierce. Cable damage seems to be a common fault, See other recent threads here.
  10. cliffcoggin
    Chris. Is it a two part prop shaft? If so it should have a pillow or doughnut shaped rubber mounting near the middle, and if that is soft or damaged it can lead to vibration.
  11. cliffcoggin
    I agree it's most likely associated with the wheels such as worn bearings, mismatched tyre patterns, or loose wheel studs; however it could also be caused by a worn suspension or transmission joint, so your prop shaft bearing is a possibility.
  12. cliffcoggin
    Belinda. I can't think of one single engine fault that would cause all the symptoms you describe, so I suspect there are many faults. I think the best place to start is to have the basic functions of the engine checked to ensure the rings and valves are in acceptable condition. If they are faulty they could well cause the plug fouling, overheating, oil loss, power loss etc. so you would need a new or re-conditioned engine.
  13. cliffcoggin
    Like you, I reckon the switch or its down connection is probably the culprit. It's the only common factor for both faults.
  14. cliffcoggin
    The clutch thrust bearing lever might have been fitted incorrectly. Can you feel the click as well as hear it?
  15. cliffcoggin
    Neil. I don't know how hard it is to fix those faults, but whether easy or hard you have nothing to lose by returning it to the seller first and try to get him to repair them.
  16. cliffcoggin
    Martin. Blue smoke is a good indicator that the engine is burning oil. Intermittent smoke in combination with difficult starting suggests the most likely problem is worn valves and seals, though at 200000 miles it is likely the bores and rings are also very worn. If you can get a compression test done and it confirms low compression I reckon you are facing an expensive repair or replacement of the engine.
  17. cliffcoggin
    My guess is that they have a common earth connection. Have you checked it?
  18. cliffcoggin
    Mark. The fault could be many things: injectors, rings, valves, ECU, cam position sensor. Grey smoke alone is not enough of a diagnostic tool to identify which with any certainty. A full diagnostic check at a garage is my best suggestion, unless you feel like stripping the engine.
  19. cliffcoggin
    Carley. You would be better off starting a new topic. I'm not saying you will get an answer but some folk may be ignoring this unrelated topic.
  20. cliffcoggin
    I hope the clutch is working properly after all that expense.
  21. cliffcoggin
    That's unfortunate. I suppose it shows the DMF is essential for smooth running.
  22. cliffcoggin
    Have you dipped the oil level?
  23. cliffcoggin
    I didn't know such conversions to solid flywheels were available. Incidentally I see it comes with a clutch included which makes the price of £365 very attractive.
  24. cliffcoggin
    Well as you have only 4.3 miles fuel left I'd say it was a low fuel level lamp.
  25. cliffcoggin
    Ouch! That's going to hurt the wallet. Thanks for letting us know.
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