cliffcoggin

Evidently it was a data socket she plugged into, which is what one would expect on modern cars in order to connect the infotainment system to a phone. Better to use a non data socket next time, or find a way in the menu to disable data transfer at the front socket, though would defeat the purpose of buying such a sophisticated system.

A loose motor earth could easily explain the poor starting, but not the power drain. The 1.6 mA drain you reported is not believable. A car in good order and locked loses a few dozen milliamps normally, some 30 times your reading.

Would raising the engine off its mounts give you enough clearance? It is what I would have done 40 years ago, but I do not know it if it is practical on your car.

Rather than throw money at parts that may or may not solve the problem, I suggest you get a diagnosis using a decent scanner.

A long warm up time suggests it not fully closing. I have read a few cases in these forums where even new thermostats were defective. I guess that is why Magnet is asking about the brand.

Check the earth connections at each light. That is a common cause of defective lights.

D. Please do us a favour and change to a more human sensible name. DaveF perhaps? The diesel problems you mentioned are not unique to Audi or Mazda. Every modern diesel suffers from attempts to comply with emissions regulations. Some are more successful than others, but all eventually have to contend with DPF faults. See this topic for information about Audi mild hybrid. It is specifically about the A7 but the technology is apparently the same on other models as you will see from other members's contributions. Personally I would not touch one with a barge pole. https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/24906-alternator-failure-related-to-mild-hybrid-system/#comment-93343

If you are convinced the guarantee is for two years then it is legal advice you need, not technical. Good luck in resolving your problem. Do let us know the outcome.

I assume the large wheels will have very low profile tyres, an arrangement that is known to produce a much harsher ride than normal, so it's reasonable to believe that is what has knocked out springs and bearings. Not sure about the drive shafts.

Did you have the new battery coded to the car? It won't work properly until you do.

You have not mentioned the mileage Steve, but at 22 years old your car must have done a circuit or two around the Earth. Most of us recommend independant VAG specialists rather than Audi main dealers. An internet search for "VAG specialist" should reveal several in your area.

I realise that. The question is what you are going to do about it. Pay out for another air bag, or claim against the garage that fitted the first?

It did work actually, twice. Perhaps there is a delay before it shows on the forum. I have to add that I will not download anything like this from untrusted sources, though I daresay most people are happy to do so.

That the air flow reduces suggests an electronic problem. Best to get the system diagnosed.

£300 for supply tells me they simply don't want the job. Time to investigate alternative suppliers such as this for example: https://wolfautoparts.com/coolant-tpiece-adapter-n90760601-ps43608.html While that one may not be identical to yours, a little time searching the internet may well find one that is.

Parasitic loss is a bit vague. How many amps are being drained from the battery? The handbrake switch under the brake lever may be what you are hearing. It would be worth looking at its condition.

That's better. Having some explanatory detail gives us a chance to provide some assistance. When you filled with oil did add the recommended measured quantity, or did you simply fill to the line on the dip stick?

Tell us what the second opinion was. The evidence you have presented so far all points to an air bag. The fact that it is fairly new does not mean it can not be defective.

No it isn't.

Electronic oil level sensors have reputation for unreliability, so it's likely you need to fit a new one. In the meantime refer to the physical dip stick if you have one.

A quick internet search found: https://hullmotorcare.co.uk/services/engine-rebuilds/ and http://enginerepaircentre.co.uk/

The electrodes are exactly as they should be. The oil on the thread has run down from the plug body because a sloppy mechanic has spilt oil into the recess during topping up.

A trace of oil may be present in an engine that has just started from cold. However it's not normal in an engine that is in good condition and has been run long enough to warm up. Some black hard soot or coke is usual around the end of the thread; while the contacts usually have a pale grey-brown powdery coating. Presumably you have oily plugs or you would not be asking about them, so tell us how much and where, or post a detailed picture.

If you suspect air bags, spray them with soapy water and watch for bubbles.

Alan. There is a potential to damage tyres or bodywork if you get this wrong. I suggest you get professional advice on the matter before changing anything.