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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Look in the boot for a plastic cord, (I believe it is orange,) behind the lining fabric which you pull to release the fuel cap.
  2. Pity you didn't mention the new header tank earlier. To change that tank the cooling system must be partly drained, which will introduce air into the system. If I was a betting man I'd put money on your cooling system needing to have air bled out of it. Nevertheless Steve's suggestion should not be ignored as it is a much easier problem to fix first.
  3. You may have an air lock in the heater. Try turning the temperature up to maximum for a few minutes once the engine is hot and run it at moderate speed. If any air is shifted you should see the level drop in the header tank. Do you know where the leak is from?
  4. At that mileage the engine should be OK unless it's been thrashed by a previous owner, which is a possibility given that EGR and DPF have been disabled. It's hard to tell from just a one second sound clip but it sounds like the rattle is from the top end of the engine, rather than big ends or main bearings.
  5. What's the mileage of the engine and do you have service history?
  6. £700 was the price to have it fitted. It will naturally be a lot cheaper to do it yourself, though it's a major job to do at home.
  7. I somehow doubt we are going to get to the bottom of the mystery by further speculation here. What is needed is some definite measurements of the suspension geometry, so I suggest you initially get the car tracking accurately checked, and if that does not reveal the problem then a body shop can measure the geometry of the whole car from the alignment of the floor pan to the length of the springs
  8. What is it? It has the appearance of a home modification.
  9. Mustapha. Before deciding on turbo repair be aware that a cambelt will add about £700 to the bill, and with 194000 miles on the clock there may be other surprises in store. I suggest you get the car assessed professionally before committing to any repairs.
  10. Well the tracking was definitely wrong to scrub the shoulder off like that.
  11. That advertisement looks suspicious: no engine light on the dash, selling for a friend, brand new MOT, no mention of mechanical condition. However hindsight is wonderful and I'm not sure I would not have been taken in by it. I doubt there is an easy legal way of getting your money back.
  12. Wait a moment, there's something a little odd about this. Why didn't the mechanic who fitted the new bolts set the alignment himself? Why did you take the car to a second person for the tracking?
  13. Sadly an MOT certificate only refers to the car's roadworthiness, and even then I suspect it is not too difficult to forge. To bring a case in the Small Claims Court costs only a small amount, (£50 I think,) but the court can not enforce its judgements. That would need you to then apply to a higher court.
  14. Some possibilities that occur to me: [1] The bushes etc. are the wrong ones or have been wrongly fitted. [2] Other parts of the rear suspension are out of alignment or worn. [3] The wheel bearings are worn. (I would expect this to be detected by the mechanics, but it's worth mentioning.) [4] The car has been in a crash and twisted out of shape. Do all the doors latch easily, accurately, and reliably?
  15. Linda. Please tell some more about the noise. [1] Does it happen when turning the steering wheel while the car is stationary, or only when in motion? [2] Does it happen when turning to one particular side or another? [3] Does it get worse when braking? [4] Can you feel any vibration at the steering wheel when the noise occurs?
  16. It looks like you have been conned by an unscrupulous seller. If there is no chance of getting your money back it seems to me you only have two choices: scrap the car or repair it yourself. I have seen reports in this forum in the past of people who have used oven cleaner to clean the turbo. It sounds dubious to me but you have little to lose, so search back in the forum and have a go.
  17. Keith. A diesel engine will turn oil black very rapidly so don't place too much reliance on the colour. Having said that, if you want to use the Ford product as a flushing oil before changing to the right spec. I doubt it would do any harm. More concerning to me is your plan to suck the old oil out of the top of the engine. That would leave any sediment in the sump to contaminate the fresh oil. I would want to see and feel that sediment to check for any solid particles. Why can't you drain the oil from the sump plug?
  18. The limiter is on the motor not the arm, so you should be able to position the arm in a dozen or so angles when the motor is parked.
  19. The wiper arm is usually a spline fitting on its shaft, so take it off when parked, then refit in the correct position.
  20. Glad you got it sorted out, and glad too that you analysed the problem and reported back. It may help others to know what a water leak can do.
  21. A neighbour with a petrol A3 had a similar oil consumption problem. She got it sorted out by an independent VAG mechanic who told her Audi had admitted there was an inherent fault with some engines and replaced or repaired the engine at little or no cost. I don't know the details of the problem or which particular engines were involved.
  22. I believe the Econ mode disables the aircon. Try turning Econ off.
  23. Thanks for letting us know. It may help others who come this way.
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