cliffcoggin

That's useful information Dirk. As it happens, a neighbour's A3 had enormous oil consumption that took a long time to get rectified. She was told by her non-Audi mechanic that there was an inherent fault in that particular engine model. I wasn't entirely convinced at the time but in retrospect it may well have been one of those mentioned in the article. I don't recall the details of the engine or the repair except to say it was petrol. By contrast my own 2 litre diesel never needs to be topped up between services.

Tony. I'm not sure if anybody can give useful advice as many of your questions come down to personal preference and the car's previous history. Fuel choice is a matter of economics versus ecology. Petrol is cleaner while diesel is cheaper. Engine size is again a matter of your desire for power versus economy. If maintenance has been thorough then all models will be reliable. Mileage cap depends how hard the car has been driven by previous owners. A well cared for car with 100000 miles on the clock will be a better buy than one with 50000 miles that has been abused. I am not aware of any endemic weaknesses in any particular model, however it's necessary to ensure that servicing has been thorough to avoid expensive repairs. For example if a cam belt has not been changed at the specified interval in order to save money there is a chance the engine will fail catastrophically. It all comes down to what you want from the car, how much you are prepared to pay, and how well it has been cared for, and only you can determine that.

I sympathise with your troubles Charlie, but ranting about them here will achieve nothing as this forum is not owned or run by Audi. If you can not get satisfaction from the dealer you really aught to take legal advice on the matter.

Glad to hear you have resolved the problem Vitalijus. How did the fuel lines come to be connected wrongly in the first place?

Do let us know the outcome.

If the battery is not holding a charge it probably needs to be renewed. A garage will be able to test it if you don't have the equipment.

I can't help with the diagnosis, but I would want an independent assessment of the fault before spending that much money. I would also want a money-back guarantee on any proposed solution, as I have been sceptical of Audi diagnoses in the past.

Perhaps these people could help? http://www.audiecu.com/ I know nothing about the company but it appears to offer much lower prices than Audi.

If it's any consolation chains tend not to fail suddenly, unlike belts.

That cost is more than the seven hundred and something pounds I paid for a timing belt but that's not to say they should be equal cost. Is it a rip-off? Who knows, but it is typical of Audi costs.

The sound is very much like a faulty tappet, a problem which can come and go with hydraulic tappets. A rattling timing chain on the other hand tends to be noisy continuously. I suspect the belt you mentioned must be for powering an auxiliary device. I have never heard of a camshaft driven by both belt and chain.

If all the faults are at the rear of the car perhaps there is a damaged earth wire in the boot. Although the fuses are fine have you checked the relay for the boot lock?

On the contrary, if you look back at previous posts here you'll see that most queries are about diagnosis or modifications to second-hand cars. Sorry you have got the wrong impression. If Glass's guide still in operation that may give you a clue.

I'd agree with Gareth that to value a car unseen would be foolish. No matter what assurances the salesmen and the paperwork and the photographs may suggest, nothing beats actually seeing and driving the car to get an idea of its condition. That's not to say the documentation should be ignored, rather it should confirm ones own impressions not replace them.

I suggest the original version which is less abrasive than the other.

Assuming you have tried soap and water without success, T-cut should do the job.

I can't think anything that links all the symptoms together: - low pitched rumble I associate with wheel bearings, tyres or exhaust, - if previous work on the turbo improved the noise for a while than that has got to be the obvious suspect, though I don't understand why, - neither of the above would cause high engine temperatures. Frankly I am at a loss to explain the problem unless there is more than one fault i.e. the noise is unrelated to the temperature. Perhaps somebody else can chip in with an explanation.

You haven't given us much information to work on Ben. Where is the noise coming from? Engine, suspension, exhaust, elsewhere. What sort of noise is it? Rumble, metallic, squeak, whine, knock, something else. What investigation have you done into the fault? Has the car been correctly maintained?

Hello Peter. A jolting clutch with a low bite point is never normal. Unfortunately I can not say precisely what is wrong with it, which isn't much help to you. Reluctantly I must also add that I am far from impressed from what I read here of Audi diagnoses. Can you take it to an independent for advice?

Glad to hear it was nothing serious, and presumably an easy fix.

Hello Darren. With friends like that, who needs enemies. I hope you have deep pockets as gearbox/clutch problems can be expensive.

It sounds to me like a slipping clutch. Whether the cause is mechanical wear of the friction material or an electrical control problem I don't know. Has the gearbox oil been changed? At your mileage it should have been done twice already.

Good luck, and do let us know the outcome.

Well that eliminates a lamp fault. Unfortunately I can't suggest a realistic cause for the problem, and I won't mislead you by guessing. All I can suggest is to find an auto electrician if Audi can not help. PS. Despite having said I won't guess, is one of the other dashboard lights on? I am wondering if there is leakage of light from somewhere else on the panel.

A slight glow sounds odd. It should either be on or off, not something in between. What does it look like on lamp test, i.e. the first few seconds after turning on the ignition when all the warning lights come on to test if they are working?