cliffcoggin

Thanks for the update Tony. Note that the job is not trivial so it would be worth renewing the water pump at the same time while the engine is apart. The pump life is similar to the belt and requires the same effort for access, hence the recommendation to do both at once. We have noted before problems with forum access when done through Google. I don't know the details or whether a solution was found.

Yes the squeal is most likely to be the release bearing. Adding that to the high bite point confirms that the clutch is defective and needs to be renewed. Others here may be able to recommend a source for a new clutch.

Is the report 20 minutes after plugging in or 20 minutes after the charge begins?

Was the reply of any help Gerry?

Any comment on this Dm?

Check the earth connections.

Were the comments above of any use to you Tony?

It has now. Thanks for the update.

The fans should only run when the temperature is high. I believe there is a module that controls the fans which you may need to renew, but I do not know the details, so a first step would be to get it tested.

George. I suspect the electric cooling fans are not switching off when the engine temperature drops.

David. It might help if you gave a more detailed explanation of what you mean by lumpy power delivery, along with conditions at which it happens. Conditions like engine speed, hot or cold, load, service history, state of tyres, etc.

Gary. I have no doubt there is an electronic fault of some kind and therefore the error messages are all meaningless. I suggest you find an auto electrician.

A properly maintained car, even one that is twenty years old, should not judder or overheat so it is clearly defective. Take it back to the dealer.

What are you asking for John? Price, brand, garage, method, special tools? There no cost to using more words in your question.

I wish you luck.

James. The distinction between remanufacture/rebuild/repair is almost nonexistent. They all amount to exchanging worn parts for new. I believe you have two choices. One, go to Audi and pay a large fortune for the repair. Two, find a specialist gearbox repair company and only pay a small fortune. Don't be tempted to buy a secondhand unit and least of all don't buy one from Ebay.

Me too, but all's well that ends well.

Stripping the calipers is a good idea, but I can't help with personal experience or diagrams.

Getting blood from a stone is easier.

We'd be glad to hear of success.

A blast of compressed air should shift any crud/water/fuel in open-ended lines. If you don't have compressed air I don't know what to suggest.

What, in words, is this spare part or connection you need? We may be able to suggest a temporary fix until the real thing arrives.

If the fuel tank is steel there's the potential for a lot of rust to have formed in it during 12 years of inactivity. If it is possible, which I do not know, I would want to remove the tank and vigourously slosh a gallon of fuel around before pouring it from the filler neck, then repeat until no more rust is seen. The fuel guage will have to be removed so that is the ideal opportunity to test it. If the tank is plastic there will naturally be no rust, but there may well be condensed water which needs to be removed somehow. I doubt there is a drain plug so maybe a syphon pump down the filler neck would do the job.

It's only condensation and nothing to worry about. Water vapour is formed during combustion which then condenses in contact with cold steel. It will be worse in cold weather and will disappear when the exhaust system is hot.

Is this the vacuum operated locking system? I recall a similar forum question a year or two ago to which there was no resolution sadly.