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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Emma. I don't know these particular parts, but it would be worth investigating a secondhand heater matrix from online car breakers.
  2. The fluid behind the pedal is because the cylinder is leaking, as I mentioned earlier. It's a common problem on old hydraulic systems and nothing unusual. A secondhand master cylinder is, to put it politely, unwise. To put it less politely, it is downright foolish to fit equipment that not only may leak as badly as the original, but could in fact fail to work at all when you most need it in an emergency. You may be willing to risk your own life, but please consider the lives of other people in and around the car.
  3. Dan. The brake master cylinder is defintely leaking and needs to be repaired or renewed. I don't see why there should be fluid in the servo but it would not hurt to check.
  4. The low oil consumption suggests the engine is in reasonable condition for its age, and in standard form would likely not have high CO emissions. Therefore I'd say your modifications are responsible for the problem, and the solution is to restore the engine to standard form.
  5. 3% carbon monoxide is extraordinarily high. What was the CO level before you changed the induction system? The engine is getting on a bit at 175000 miles. What is the oil consumption? Does it smoke? Does it still have a functional EGR valve? Has the engine been modified in other ways?
  6. I suggest you take the car elswhere for a second opinion before spending all that money. Unless the garage is using a professional code reader and knows how to interpret the results it could be leading you on a wild goose chase. The reason is that one fault can generate many unrelated false error codes, so it is essential the "technician" knows how to sort the wheat from the chaff. Even if the garage is convinced the ABS module is faulty I would ask for a guarantee that replacing it will eliminate the problem.
  7. Kat. Who or what is telling you that the ABS module is faulty? The dashboard lamp, a proper VAGCOM diagnosis, a cheap code reader, a mechanic, or something else?
  8. It could be a back tyre issue, or any of a dozen different issues from the sparse information you have provided. Whatever the cause, if you bought the car recently take it back to the dealer you bought it from.
  9. Diane. Have you read the whole thread? There are suggestions near its start, and questions which would help all of us to home in on your problem.
  10. Thanks for letting us know.
  11. In your postion I would ask first the company what sort of guarantee it offers.
  12. Musty. Sasidhar, like so many newcomers, has not visited the forum since posting his request for help four years ago. It's unlikely he will return now.
  13. Dan. It would help if you gave some details of the engine such as its size and fuel.
  14. Mark. As you suspect, the topic has been discussed many times here. It would pay you to search the forum to get some clues about your problem.
  15. As I mentioned two days ago, "The battery needs to be coded to the car, otherwise you will get a variety of electronic faults and spurious alarms." I am not saying the lack of coding is definitely the cause of your problems, but until you eliminate that possibility there can be no logical resolution from error messages.
  16. The EGR should last much longer than that, so I believe there is something else wrong with the car. Are you telling us the car has been remapped since it was manufactured?
  17. Then your car must be unique. Every other A3 of that era needs the battery to be coded to the car.
  18. The battery needs to be coded to the car, otherwise you will get a variety of electronic faults and spurious alarms. Sorry, but I will not download files from unknown sources.
  19. Was the replacement battery new or secondhand? Did you get it coded to the car?
  20. https://duckduckgo.com/?q=what+oil+to+use+for+a+AudiA3+Sportback+2019+1.0+Petrol&ia=web
  21. Doesn't it tell you in the handbook in the car?
  22. Glad to hear the problem has been resolved. Dare I ask who paid for the replacement engine? My speculation is that the old engine had been worked on in the past by somebody incompetant, who had either over-tightened the new cap bolts or re-used the old bolts, and at the same time somehow mis-aligned the oil pump drive. What that does not explain is why oil only leaked when the car was stationary.
  23. A faulty valve spring is possible, but unlikely. More likely is a worn valve guide allowing oil and gases into the rocker case and crankcase. It appears you have the head off so now is a good chance to remove the valves and check their seats and guides.
  24. Richard. I suspect a complete door, or components thereof, has been fitted from a different model. The previous wiring repairs complicate matters even more. What is not clear to me is what parts of the central locking are not working with which control units. The drivers door or the other doors? Using the key or the remote fob? It is possible the new controls need to be coded to the car, but I am unsure on this point.
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