cliffcoggin

You would do better to ask the seller if it will fit. If he will not guarantee it will, buy elsewhere.

Guess that puts him on my "Ignore" list, along with a few others who regularly pose questions and fail to inform us of the outcomes. That's their loss, not mine.

I have seen no updates yet. What did your mechanic say Asif?

I agree with Gareth that incipient corrosion should have been detected long before it became so bad that structural failure occurred. That is precisely what the MOT test is for, so somebody is concealing something. A substantial piece of steel like that can not go from being acceptably fit for purpose in May to a complete failure in just five months. As for the cause, I have never known this sort of failure on any car of any age so I wonder about corrosion or mistreatment. I see you are nowhere near the sea but salt treatment of the roads for de-icing in winter is a possible source of corrosion, particularly if you do not occasionally wash the underside of the car. Mechanical mistreatment might involve jacking the car wrongly or at the wrong point thus weakening the steel. Both possibilities seem remote, but I can not think of another explanation. I believe you can be confident that there is no inherent defect in the original Audi components, so the failure must involve the way it has been used or treated.

Does the engine speed also go up and down, or is it just the tachometer reading that changes while the engine speed is constant? Is this the same jalopy you asked about in June and failed to inform us of the outcome?

If he did find a solution he kept it secret from all of us, rather than sharing it with others in a similar position. It's an all too familiar, and typically discourteous, response from those seeking help here.

In that case I'd agree it's worn linkage.

A worn clutch can cause similar gear selection problems. Does the clutch work as it should? Do you get any clutch slip under load?

Whatever the precise cause Joshua, there is no cheap or quick fix for that sort of problem. Take it back for a refund before it is too late, and don't be deterred by excuses, delaying tactics, or prevarication from the seller.

I'll not be drawn into an argument about security and privacy of operating systems. Apart from being off topic, such debates are always futile as they depend more on opinion than evidence. Suffice to say I will continue my policy of not downloading attachments from this or any other forum.

As Steve said, without accurate diagnosis you are simply guessing what is wrong. That way is a path to endless expenditure without any certainty of solving the problem. If that is what you prefer that's your choice, but you will be on your own.

Not so Steve. What was posted was a .mov file which I can not open without first downloading it. Youtube is entirely different, being a website that can be reached from a browser with all the attendant malware filters. If your computer allowed you to open the file without asking your permission or warning you of the possible consequences I suggest you get some better protection.

That's better, thank you. I can not hear the noise well enough to identify it with certainty. Slack timing chain, loose pulley, a split intake sucking in air are possibilities in addition to Steve's suggestions.

Sorry Kristupas, I will not download anything from strangers. If you put your video on a public platform that checks for malware I'll be happy to look at it.

Sorry Lee, I will not download anything from strangers. Put your videos on a public platform that checks for malware and I'll be happy to look at them. Having said that, I doubt they will add any more information to what you have written. It is clear your engine was modified without investigation of the DPF fault, and then serviced by a cowboy who did not know what he was doing. Given all the alterations to the engine the best advice I can give is to take the car either to a proper Audi mechanic or to an independent Audi specialist. It will be probably be expensive, and may involve returning the engine to standard condition, but I reckon starting from a clean slate gives you the best chance of a reliable car once more.

I would not place much reliance on the code reader unless it is a professional grade. The cheap readers often give misleading results causing owners to waste money on uneccesary and expensive parts. I suggest you get a professional diagnosis before spending any more money. Before you do even that, tell us how old the battery is.

I agree with Gareth that little short of an engine rebuild is going to solve the problem, however I do wonder where the oil is going. If it is being burnt at that rate I would expect a lot of blue smoke from the exhaust, if it is leaking externally there would be wet patches on and under the engine, if it is leaking internally the cooling system or gearbox would fill with oil.

Ah yes, on reading again I see you did mention that initially. I am still unclear how much oil it is using. You said you topped up "a little" after 5000 miles, but what is a little? A quarter litre, a half litre, a litre? Am I right in assuming your first report of 5 litres was not a top up, but a complete change as is normal during a service?

What makes you say that? Air only gets into the system if the level in the reservoir is allowed to drop too far, and the usual cause of that is a leak. Have you had to top up the reservoir? Look closely at the two cylinders before the rains come. The black dirt around the cylinder should be bone dry, but even the slightest trace of moistness in that dirt indicates a leak.

Now that's a point Geoffrey. If they are turn indicators they would need to be yellow to comply with Construction & Use Regs.

If the clutch is hydraulicly operated there are two likely possibilities: [1] A leak from the seals of the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Look for wetness at both places, and renew as necessary. [2] Air in the fluid. Bleed the whole hydraulic system until no more air bubbles are expelled. If the clutch is cable operated there should be an adjuster. Will you be doing the job yourself?

My 2 litre diesel never had any problems doing mainly short (<30 miles) on slow country roads, plus the occasional 40 miles motorway journey. That you would even consider increasing atmospheric pollution by removing the DPF and EGR is appalling.

They appear to be LED strips. Do they turn on with the head or side lights? I am fairly sure they are not standard fitments, so a previous owner must have installed them.

I don't download anything from strangers. Attach the picture to your message Jake, or put it on a public platform that scans for malware.

I see no "yellow plastic bits" in your picture. A better photo and description might help.