cliffcoggin

You haven't given us much information to work on Lynne. Have you checked the battery connections? Did the central locking unlock from the fob? Do the sidelights work? Do any other electrical systems work? That sort of data will help to locate the fault which could be anything from a dying battery to simple blown fuse.

So are you now responsible for putting it right? That could be expensive. There could be any number of things causing your problem so ideally you need to get a professional diagnosis. That will cost money, but will still be cheaper than installing new parts at random in the hope that you might cure it.

My advice is to take it back and let the dealer sort it out.

My suspicion is that the original diagnosis of a faulty head gasket was wrong. Testing the acidity (which is what pH measures,) is not conclusive proof of such a leak to my mind. I suspect your leak is elsewhere. Can you see any wet patches or antifreeze stains anywhere around the engine when it is up to full temperature?

Kay. I share Gareth's cynicism regarding electronic diagnosis. All too often I have seen such diagnoses on this forum that bore no relation to reality.

That's like asking how long is a piece of string. Without more detail nobody can say. If you bought it from a dealer I suggest you take it straight back for him to repair. If it's a private purchase your options are limited. Try discussing it with the seller to see if any settlement can be agreed.

What has the windscreen got to do with the radio?

Well if the clutch is new and the slave cylinder is new that only leaves the master cylinder as being faulty. (There's a very remote possibility of the release arm not being located properly, but let's ignore that for now.) Note that master cylinder seals can let by without there being an external leak, (the oil leaks back to the reservoir,) so I suggest you renovate or renew the MC. As an aside I did not realise hydraulic clutches were still in use nowadays. They were common decades ago, and always struck me as easier to operate and maintain than cable systems. I guess cables were cheaper than oil.

If all else fails you could utilise any convenient bolt that screws into metal as long as you clean any paint/grease/dirt off the connection.

Dave. The engine judder could be caused by any number of things, but a rusty exhaust is not one of them. The judder must be bad if it cracked an engine mount, and may also be responsible for a cracked exhaust. The steering wheel wobble is most likely the road wheels are still not balanced. Have you hit the kerb? Other causes are worn steering or suspension joints, or loose bearings but as they are all MOT failures I hope the dealer has checked them. Fluid of any sort should not be leaking onto the exhaust. A stink of petrol at the rear of the car suggests a faulty breather, a leak from the tank, or a poor seal at the filler cap. All in all you have bought a dog. I suggest you return it and demand a refund.

Lore. Don't waste your time trying to repair it. Get a new one. The water it carries is above boiling point and under pressure so you should not chance another burst. What's puzzling is why it fractured. Is it rubbing or banging on something else? That coolant leak is entirely unrelated to loss of screen wash. Are you definitely losing screen wash or have you confused the warning lights?

Hmm, their performance so far doesn't inspire confidence. I wish you luck.

As Gareth said, we need more information. Automatic transmission or manual? In gear or in neutral? Before or after you stop? Can you hear any noise associated with the tremor? Do you feel the tremor in the floor or a pedal? Please describe as accurately as possible or else we shall be on an endless guessing game that goes nowhere.

No there's no need to disconnect the battery first. In fact if you are using a meter it will be beneficial to have power to the terminals.

So true Gareth, so true. When people ask the forum about electronic fault codes they mean nothing to me, but I get the impression from subsequent discussions they mean equally little to Audi mechanics (or are they called technicians nowadays,) and can not be relied on for diagnosis. To avoid any accusations of being another old fogey bemoaning the end of "the good old days" I also remember having to de-coke engines after 30000 miles and re-bore after 60000. Then there was changing a clutch single handed at the roadside, and replacing a core plug also at the roadside that blew out crossing the Alps. I wouldn't dream of attempting those jobs now but the knowledge gained is still invaluable.

Ye gods. Is the key made of gold?

There's not much more I can add except to repeat that a second assessment should be done elsewhere before committing yourself to some serious expenditure. If the Audi dealer who once employed you can not or will not come up with a better explanation than a porous head I wonder what ordinary paying customers are told. If he is prepared to absolutely guarantee that a new head will cure the problem then fair enough, but I doubt he will.

Diana. I was going to make a joke about the ESP fault referring to psychic abilities, but it would not have been funny. (That's psychic as in extra sensory perception.) Sorry, can't help on that score. Being a natural cynic I am suspicious about the diagnosis of a porous head. Even if such a thing was possible I find it hard to believe it has gone undetected for 140000 miles. However I could certainly believe low compression as a result of worn bores, a cracked head, a damaged head gasket, or worn valve seats, all of which happen to old engines. (140000 miles would normally be too early for that sort of wear unless the engine has been thrashed or poorly maintained.) Low compression would cause the symptoms of poor starting and uneven running you have experienced, though it must be said they could equally be caused by other faults. In your position I would have the compression test repeated at another garage to obviate any suspicion of being led up the garden path by a shady mechanic. Unfortunately there are still places that try to take advantage of women in the hope that they have no mechanical knowledge. If the test again shows low compression then you are faced with at best a moderately expensive repair if it only needs a new head gasket, or at worst a hugely expensive complete replacement engine. If the compression rest result is OK then a more extensive investigation is needed to find the root cause of the problems.

Yes, rev the engine too much and the plank shoots backwards, dropping the valence onto the steel ramp. Only planks use planks.

Three electrical faults in one week has got to be record. I suspect you may have one fundamental fault that is causing all these symptoms, but I have no idea where to even start diagnosing the problems. Perhaps it's time to consult a car electrician.

A Mk 1 eh? That would be as old as we all are!

Perhaps I should mention a few precautions just in case you aren't familiar with them: -do the job on level ground, -chock the two wheels that remain on the ground, -the jack is only for lifting, lower onto stands before going underneath. Sorry if I am teaching grandmother to suck eggs. I am not clear how experienced you are.

Trolley jack and axle stands have served me well over the years for access to the underside. They also enable the wheels to be removed while up in in the air.

Does this help? https://www.drivingtesttips.biz/dashboard-warning-lights/audi-dashboard-warning-lights/audi-a3-dashboard-warning-lights.html

https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=tow+hitch+ball+cover&_sop=12