cliffcoggin

If fuel is running back to the tank overnight, it would be worth turning on the ignition the next day and waiting 30 seconds for the fuel pump to pressurise the injectors before cranking the starter motor. It won't get rid of all the air but it will ease the load on the battery.

Ann. I assume you mean the door won't unlock rather than being physically jammed by crash damage or the like. If the other doors work then the chances are that the driver's door lock has failed. If none of the other doors operate then the central locking system has failed. Either way there is little you can do yourself unless you are handy with tools.

See this topic I started a couple of years ago. A forum search would have revealed it quickly.

Those diagnostic tools are not infallible. Who carried out the diagnosis? A friend with a reader, or an Audi agent? One might expect a professional would be competent enough to resolve the problem without the electronic diagnosis, but experience suggests otherwise.

Cant say for certain, but there's a good chance the tyres will rub bodywork at full steering lock or full suspension deflection.

You are right to be worried. Any knocking that loud should not be ignored. It's hard to be certain without hearing it from above and below the engine, and without using a stethoscope to locate the sound, but the most likely thing to my ear is a valve bouncing off a piston. I wondered at first if it might be a big end knocking but it doesn't sound quite metallic enough for that. Get it looked into immediately and it may only cost you a small fortune; delay the investigation and a new engine will cost you a large fortune. Sorry but it's going to be expensive either way.

If it is a cambelt engine, (I have no idea what the TFSI means,) ensure it has been changed. It's an expensive (£700) job to do but far more expensive if it hasn't.

I'll report back when I have it solved. Thanks for the confirmation gents.

That's a good point Steve, and for a moment I was cheered, but having looked it up it was actually the N/S/R lock that was replaced. O blow! (substitute expletive of your choice.)

Fair enough Vincent. I would take the car back to the dealer and let him worry about the cost. He should either fix it or refund your money.

Whatever the problem may be, and whatever the cost may be, surely it is cheaper to get it repaired before the warranty runs out.

I don't know about the legality of the work, but an undeclared power increase will undoubtedly invalidate the insurance.

It can be slipped in easily, and during turning the smooth resistance of a spring tells me something is moving. This is the door lock that Audi renewed a year & a half ago so I guess the switch is not connected or a wire has broken again. I'll look at it in the summer when the weather is better. I really only wanted know if the key ought to operate the lock before attempting a repair.

Thanks Steve. I'll add that to the list of outstanding jobs, though being a lower priority than paying work it probably won't get done. Ah well.

Last week the battery died in my key fob so the doors would not unlock. While awaiting a new battery I expected the key to work mechanically by pushing it into the key slot, but that did not work. (Fortunately I had a spare key fob with working battery.) Was my expectation wrong?

If power returns when you move the battery, either there is a poor terminal connection or the battery is defective. All the other faults may or may not be related to each other, but have nothing to do with the battery. The lack of error codes tells you nothing, they are in any case poor indicators of faults even when a code is generated, so I suggest you get it tested by a specialist auto electrician.

Glad you got it resolved. I am surprised the garage pressure test didn't reveal the leak from the EGR cooler considering how easily you found it after stripping the engine.

Do let us know the outcome James. Not just to satisfy our curiosity, but to possibly help others who may come this way. Cliff.

Gareth. Surely if the thermostat was defective it would lead to real overheating which James says does not happen. I favour your approach to solving the problem by actually measuring the temperature with an independent device. I am not too impressed with the cheap infra red instruments, but the meters that have a contact probe are generally very good. Come to that, James could also remove the thermostat and test it hot water.

James. You imply, but did not actually confirm, that the engine temperature is correct while the gauge reading is wrong. Does steam vent from the header tank eventually? Can you smell any overheating in the engine bay? (Overheated engines have a distinctive odour.) If those signs aren't present, then the chances are that the sensor is faulty, but given the complexity of modern electronics on cars I would not be certain of it. Maybe an ECU fault can generate the fault.

If you want to know what a main dealer would charge, ask one.

The only way I can imagine camber to be affected would be the wrong bottom arms, the wrong stub axles, or longer springs, but I don't know how to find the right part numbers. I am pretty sure different wheels would not change the camber. Having said that, is it definitely the camber that is out, and not the toe-in? Excessive toe-in would cause similar wear to the outer shoulder of the tyres.

So you did. Sorry, I didn't notice the TDI, though I must admit that many of the letters and numbers used to describe models by all manufacturers are meaningless to me.

A vacuum leak sounds a plausible explanation for the rough idling if you have a petrol engine because servo vacuum is drawn from the intake manifold. (Diesels have a combined fuel/vacuum pump for the servo.) Whether that would also explain an EGR problem I do not know. What surprises me is engine fumes are getting into the cabin. Modern car ventilation ducts are usually well sealed from the engine bay.

As Gareth said, get it professionally tested if you can't be certain of precisely where the fault is. The trial and error method of replacing parts almost at random until the problem is resolved will cost a fortune. Once you have a definite cause you can decide whether to repair it yourself or get it done for you.