cliffcoggin

If it was my car I would measure, or get someone else to measure, the free length of the left and right springs. That may be easier said than done as the car would have to be jacked up until the wheels were off the ground, but would confirm whether the springs are at fault or there is something more serious like a twisted chassis to contend with. It is not unknown for springs to break within the cup shaped end cap, making the break invisible without removal, yet shortening the overall length. As for the shock absorber leak, forget it, it has no influence on the ride height, though it should be replaced for other reasons. Shock absorbers do not support the vehicle and and exist only to control the rebound after going over a bump. You could drain, or even remove the shock absorber completely, yet its absence would not alter the ride height.

A half inch difference between the two sides is really quite a lot. Like Gareth and Chris I reckon it is likely one spring has been changed, possibly for a shorter (i.e. lowered height) one, or perhaps a rubber bush has disintegrated. I also agree that the garage should be investigating as this problem can affect handling. That the garage will not do so is suspicious to my mind. Did you buy the car from there?

Look for breakers yards, many of them have web sites. I bought a headrest for my car from one such.

Are you sure it has a cam chain rather than a belt? I don't know the engine but I would have expected a toothed belt on something so modern.

I would start by looking at a circuit diagram to find out where there might be common feeds or common earths or even a common fuse, but then I am old fashioned like that. If you prefer the modern way of testing you plug the car into a computer and hope it gives you sensible results. Quite where the wires are run and the motors are earthed I have no idea, because in the absence of any specific practical experience of the window motors I can only theorise about the problem.

Adding a higher octane fuel than is required can not possibly cause any such problems. In any case that sound is not pinking or pre-ignition, which is what you get from too low an octane fuel; nor does it quite rattle enough to be tappets. That still leaves plenty of alternative causes for the noise, some of which involve expensive repairs, so I suggest you get it examined professionally before permanent damage is done.

When two electrical problems occur at the same time I would expect a common fault. The most obvious common fault that springs to my mind is a dodgy earth connection.

Yours in behaving the same as mine which I believe to be perfectly normal. That's why the fob has a centre button.

Daniel. The warning light is on for a reason, as is the rattle. If the dealer was truly legitimate he would do something about them. Don't be a mug, walk away from the car.

You can get them approximately aligned with the front wheels by clamping a length of straight wood against the rims and adjusting the toe in visually. You will probably need to use spacer blocks to clear the tyres. Bounce the suspension a few times after adjustment, then check again.

That's right Michael. You have A4 under your name so I assumed you asked about A4.

Mr. Google tells me: http://fusesdiagram.com/audi/fuses-and-relay-audi-a4-b6.html

Are you sure you have not mixed up two HT leads?

Tyres are a good point Scott. If the tyres are not matched or are fitted the wrong way round Mike could get some odd handling problems on different surfaces. Thinking even further, are the tyres at the right pressure and is the tracking correct?

The white smoke may or may not be related to the water loss, so I suggest the leak should be sorted out before worrying about the smoke. The water can only escape from the coolant system via: [1] an external leak from the radiator/hoses/pump/thermostat/pump etc. You should be able to see a wet spot or dried crud around the leak. Alternatively a pressure test of the cooling system will confirm. [2] an internal leak to the engine if the head gasket is damaged. A compression test of the engine will confirm. (A compression test may also reveal other causes for white smoke such as worn bores and valves. Are you using a lot of oil?) Both tests can be done by a competent home mechanic if you are prepared to buy the equipment, or you take the car to someone who is.

Just a guess on my part, but if you open the window fully would it be possible to reach down the gap and catch the lock mechanism or its linkage with a length of stiff wire?

A fair assumption.

A worn clutch usually has a high bite point and it slips, i.e the engine revs but the road speed does not increase. Furthermore I have never heard of a worn clutch making any noise. None of which is to say your clutch is not worn, but I suspect something else is going on.

Why do say that? Does the switch incorporate a latching circuit?

The O/S/F electric window of my 2007 A3 sometimes loses the automatic function which allows a brief press on the switch to completely open or close it. I can still operate the window by holding the switch down or up so the motor and switch are clearly still working, but I need to reset the automatic function (by holding the switch up for two seconds after closure,) more and more frequently. The Haynes manual gives no clue about how this automatic function is controlled. Does anybody here know?

This is the sort of thing I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-154006-Mechanics-Stethoscope-320/dp/B001C0RYPG

Sindre. I can't positively identify the noise, but I echo Gareth's suggestion of using a stethoscope to listen to the bearings on the alternator and other auxiliaries. Get the type with a solid rod rather than a rubber disc like doctors use. Alternatively try a "screwdriver stethoscope" if you care to live dangerously, which is just a long screwdriver that you touch the tip to a metal part and the handle to your ear. It will amplify the noise very well but could be painful if there is much vibration.

I do know that door locks and radio are supplied by separate fuses, so I think the most likely common fault would be a bad earth. Have a look at the battery terminals and the fuseboard earthing as a first step.

Patrick. Unfortunately you now see why your cheap repair is so cheap. Why not forget about a few of the mods you had planned and get the basics done properly before splashing out on fancy lights and the like.

Have you tried a breaker's yard? I relied on them for numerous parts many years ago when new parts were unnecessary or too expensive, but they seems to be an ignored resource nowadays, even though many breakers are on line.