cliffcoggin

The cheap readers are notoriously unreliable. A better bet would be a professional diagnosis, though even they are not infallible. If that proves inconclusive we shall have to start from first principles and consider every symptom of the engine's behaviour. Do let us know the outcome.

What did you plug it in to? A professional code reader or a cheap one for home use?

So have I Steve. Classic or old cars which are in short supply will always find a buyer willing to restore them, but A3s are as common as muck and available all over the country at low prices. The example under discussion needs a new interior as well as a new exterior, and that's before the 180000 miles old running gear is even considered.

I hate to disillusion you, but given what you have said about the condition I can not imagine anybody being willing to invest the time and money in restoring a 23 year old wreck. No matter how much sentimental value it may have for you, it is time to accept that it is scrap and sell it for parts.

Does this thread give any clues? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/19422-noise-from-front-left-wheel-above-50mph-gearboxwheel-bearingdrive-shaftbrake-disc/

I see it as very relevant to the thread so no apologies needed. It's always good to consider different views even if there is no concensus.

I would prefer terminal blocks if there is space because I am unconvinced by Keith's advocacy of twisted jonts. I have seen too many twisted joints fail on cars over the years. However in this particular instance I do not know if there is space for such a block. Either way some slack in the wire, or even better a loop as Keith suggests, would relieve the strain from repeated opening of the boot. I am not an electrician but mechanical locking of two wires together with screws or solder were the only acceptable methods of joining or terminating wires in all my years in industry. The same applies to domestic electrical installations from what I have seen, though spring loaded blade connectors like the Wago are becoming popular.

That's a good point about a soldered joint possibly breaking as it flexes, but wouldn't a twisted joint also become unravelled when flexed and vibrated despite being covered with heat shrink tubing? I have a deep distrust of twisted wire joints, and have always felt a soldered joint to be more durable.

Thanks Erik. It is good to read that the forum has provided a solution for you.

If I recall correctly the interior light switch has three positions: automatic, off, and manual. Are you sure you have the auto position selected?

I haven't the faintest idea. The cost will depend on which bush needs to be changed and whether you are going to do the job yourself or pay somebody to do it for you. The first task surely is to identify what precisely is wrong before making a decision on a solution. I suggest you get somebody to wriggle the steering wheel to and fro while you look and feel the bushes holding the steering column (I think there are two of them), then do the same to the steering linkage under the car including the rack mounting points. If the sound does not give away the location the vibration of a creaky joint sometimes will.

I don't recognise your description "belt driven simulator wheel", but a noise when turning the steering wheel could be one of the bushes supporting the column or one of the rubber bushes in the steering linkage.

I suspect it is simply jammed from being slightly twisted. If wriggling alternate sides does not work I can only suggest brute force,

That suggests the wheels have been changed for a non-standard size. I looked online for A3 tyre pressures and did not see your particular size mentioned.

If you got a handbook with the car it should be in there.

Just over £700 is what I paid at an Audi dealer three years ago. The high cost is the reason owners delay getting it done. If it proves necessary to add the cost of a new wiper motor and door lock actuators you could be looking at a repair bill of over £1000.

I agree with Steve's advice, though for the door locking I suggest a new battery for the key fob as a first step. Be prepared for a £700 bill for the cambelt and water pump!

If you can't trace the leak by listening I suggest you locate the vacuum hose under the bonnet and follow it to the vacuum pump or manifold at one end and the servo at the other. Check for loose connections, splits, etc.

A vacuum leak sounds a reasonable diagnosis, but I am puzzled that you hear it from a dashboard air vent. Have you listened under the bonnet?

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=difference+between+audi+8PI+and+8PA&ia=web

Happy Christmas to all the regulars here including Gareth, Ken, and the two Steves. Cliff.

Mantas. Are you really running on your second set of injectors in a few months yet the fault is still present? If so I suspect there is nothing wrong with either set of injectors, and that the fault lies elsewhere. Injectors are extremely reliable and rarely fail. Please confirm whether your engine is petrol or diesel. The type of fuel is not clear from the above comments. Please tell us also: -how many miles (or kilometres) the car has done, -whether it has been properly maintained during its life, -whether there are any other symptoms apart from the shaking and associated knocking.

Glad to hear the tyres are OK. Please explain more about the brake fault. 5 mm wear is extraordinary, nevertheless the wear should be uniform. Was the disc loose or was the pad loose?

Many decades ago I had remould tyres fitted to the first vehicle I owned because I could not afford new tyres. Unfortunately a section of tread partially detached and at high speed it slapped the road surface with a sound much like the one Marlon describes, yet when stationary it retracted back to the carcass and was barely visible. Now I am not saying Marlon has the same problem as remould tyres are no longer sold, but it shows that minor or nearly invisible tyre faults can have dramatic effects.

Well here's a third who shares that opinion Gareth and Ken. I understand questioners doubting or even rejecting some of the advice received from the regulars here, after all we are unknown strangers with no proven reputation or experience, but it irritates me that rarely is there any feedback by way of resolutions to their problems, and still less any thanks for the time and effort we contribute. Perhaps I am also too old and cynical to cope with the ungracious demands of those who expect instant answers at the touch of a keyboard. Cliff.