cliffcoggin

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/search-form?moreOptions=visible&postcode=LE12 8AS&make=Audi&model=A3&price-from=2000&price-to=2500&include-delivery-option=on&advertising-location=at_cars

To summarise: the engine knocks under certain conditions, it might be running hot (though I fail to understand how that can be if the guage reads normal,) and it creates emulsion in the oil. (I suspect the increasing level in the sump is caused mainly by water ingress, tainted by a little petrol.) If the knocking is from a big end or a main bearing which has worn the others will be close behind, as will the bores and rings, and a recon engine would be the cheapest solution. I fear you may have bought a clapped out wreck, but before condeming it prematurely I would get the engine assessed professionally. There is a limit to what can be diagnosed from incomplete written descriptions, and you should not rely entirely on advice here before deciding to commit to major expense.

A compression test is just the first step to making a diagnosis of the fault. It may indicate a blown head gasket, a cracked block, a warped head etc. though to be honest if any of those faults were present I would also expect other symptoms, none of which you have mentioned. If none of that means anything to you please get professional advice quickly. The engine is risk of permanent damage if it is run with the quantity of petrol you tell us is in the oil. For the sake of completeness are there any other symptoms you have not told us of? I am thinking of overheating, loss of coolant, brown emulsion in the oil, loss of power, knocking under load, smoke under hard acceleration.

The 1.4 litre petrol engine for a few years was the subject of numerous claims against Audi because of a manufacturing fault causing extraordinary oil consumption. I leave you to look up the details and dates, but if yours proves to be one of the affected engines the only solution is a new engine. Having said that, your engine may not be one of those affected by the above problem, and the fault may lie elsewhere. I suggest you start with a compression test. It shouldn't need saying that petrol in the engine oil will dramatically reduce its lubricating power, and lead to its ruination.

It would be a mistake, and an expensive mistake at that, to change the gearbox until it has been confirmed as the source of the knock. The noise could equally well come from the clutch or the drive shafts (CV joints), neither of which will be improved by changing the gearbox.

Clearly water has got in somewhere, but unless you can see a wet patch inside it is anybody's guess where. Perhaps the most likey entry point is around the bonnet. I would start looking at the fuse box which is at the back of the engine bay, and close to the bonnet edge. Its lid is hard to clip on and may not have been secured properly.

Forgive the apparently silly question, but was it just the outside you washed? I ask because it has been known for jet washers to be used in the interiors.

The cigarette lighter socket is useless for powering accesories for exactly the reason you stated. When I wired in a satnav mounted on the dashboard I picked up a supply from the fuseboard inside the dashboard. Prise off the right end cover of the dashboard with a broad flat screwdriver to reveal the fuseboard. The cover will clip on again if the wire is thin enough.

The static battery voltage is meaningless when trying to diagnose electrical faults. Seemingly good batteries can actually be defective and cause a variety of problems. A deep discharge test, which most can not do at home, will reveal any fault. Having said that, there could still be a residual fault from the leak. The boot may now be dry but have you checked for moisture or corrosion inside the lid switch? I also seem to recall reports here of damaged wires to the boot lid where they pass through the rubber grommet causing a similar problem.

The two problems may not be related. I have the same car as you and the clutch sometimes snatches as it engages from stationary, but once it has engaged power transmission is smooth. Does that sound like your take off fault?

If yours has an illuminated visor mirror there must a power supply to it. Perhaps that could be used if it has enough electrical capacity. Does the speaker phone have to be sited at the visor? Wouldn't it work just as well on the dash board?

Sorry Leigh. I can not open that mov file in a browser. My only option is to save it on my computer, and that is something I am not prepared to do. Good luck in solving your problem.

If all else fails the socket can be split with a small cutting disc. Alternatively heating with a blowlamp should release the arm. Both methods are prone to damaging the bodywork and should be last resorts.

I too see only a still picture. A blown head gasket is also my first thought, though other explanations are possible. Are there other symptoms such as emulsion in the oil, overheating, oil loss?

[1] Squirt a little penetrating oil into the socket, then wait a few minutes for it to soak in. [2[ Tap around the outside with a small hammer. Not hard enough to damage or distort the metal, but hard enough that the repeated shocks may break the corrosion that holds the arm to its spindle.

Jack. I have the 2 litre diesel, and while it has loads of torque it inevitably is noisier than a petrol engine of similar power. I have no idea how it compares to a Honda CRV, whatever that is. For comparison with my previous cars, my A3 has better performance and comfort than a BMW 325d (which was an unpleasant car,) and equal performance to a Mk.3 Granada Cosworth (which I still miss). For some months I have been considering changing to a smaller more frugal car as I do only short trips and no more than 2000 miles per year, so if you want to try mine you are welcome to do so.

I don't have the manual to hand at the moment to check, but if I recall correctly each window motor has its own fuse.

Given that you have revived an old thread about faulty wiring to door locks, can we assume you have checked the wiring and the connectors?

I am glad to hear both faults are fixed Arron. In summary, the temperature problem you asked about was solved by a new thermostat. The faulty battery had nothing to with it. As Gareth pointed out earlier detail is king.

I am a little surprised at the diagnosis. I realise that a poor battery can give rise to electrical problems, in fact I have frequently suggested as much elsewhere on this forum, but if Aaron's battery was so bad I would have expected all sorts of other faults ranging from door locks to limp made to false dash warning lights etc. The proof of the pudding will be in the eating, so Aaron do please let us know the effect of the new battery on your problem.

Well you posted the same topic with the same title and the same description on two ocaissions. Once at 11.48 and again 13 minutes later at 12.01.

The slow warm up and wide temperature flictuations suggest to me that the thermostat is stuck wide open. When you renew it make sure to be thorough in getting rid of airlocks. They can be a devil to eliminate.

All engines fail eventually, particularly if poorly maintained. All diesels have DPF problems unless maintained. I've never heard of such oil pump problems. Who specifically has voted that engine the least reliable? In short I don't believe the Audi 2 litre diesel is any worse than other brands. Mine has done nearly 100000 miles and is still in fine condition.

The most likely culprit, amongst several, is the car battery is dying.

What stories have you been reading?