cliffcoggin

It is possible that a single switch serves both low and high functions.

Rightly so. A bunch of villains in my opinion.

Naveed. Photos of dried coolant are not helpful in diagnosis; you need to examine the engine bay while the engine is still hot and running to look for wet marks. The most likely source is the reservoir cap. Is it screwed on firmly? Is it damaged?

Was the above helpful to you Gemini? I see you visited the forum eight hours ago so you must have seen it.

It doesn't pay to rush things.

Sadly Audi is no longer the prestige brand it once was. You would be better off with a Ford nowadays.

Sorry to hear you have become a member of the unfortunate club upon which Audi has turned its back.

The ability of a battery to crank and fire the engine is not evidence that it is in good shape. That was true years ago in the days of points in distributors, but not since the advent of sensitive electronics. I suggest you get the battery properly tested (not by a multimeter). I'd go further and say that if it is more than five years old you should renew it irrespective of the test results. Don't forget to get the new battery coded to the car.

What does that mean? Have you had it professionally tested?

Did you also have a new oil filter? If so the lack of oil pressure suggests worn bearings. What is the mileage? Does it have a full service history? Is the engine losing oil or making smoke?

Enough! I am locking this topic as the discussion is going into dangerous territory. Clifford Coggin.

Take it to an Audi dealer, pay him lots of money, repeat every year.

Please do.

No.

Not the faintest.

I seem to recall a limitation on attachments for new members, but apart from that there should be no delays.

I have seen a few topics regarding the job, so it may pay you to search these forums for details.

The subscription to Audi services has expired, so you need to buy a new subscription from Audi.

Failure of the air flap motor and/or linkage is a common fault. I believe it's an awkward job to repair, though I have not done it myself.

At last the real cause of the problem has been revealed.

New after market blades usually have fittings & adaptors together with instructions in the box, from which you should be able to work out which hidden stud or tongue needs to be pressed to remove the originals.

Alex. Such work usually turns out badly by causing damage to the engine unless done by expensive experts rather than the average bodger working under a railway arch. Search these forums for examples, one of which was this: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/29564-black-smoke-loss-power-cnha/page/2/#comment-132136

Manufacturers only commit to supplying spares for ten years after the end of production, so you have a difficult task ahead. It would be worth searching for specialist classic car clubs who often stock, or even make, parts for old cars.

Any response to the above, Mark. I know you have seen it.

Adblue blockages are a common failing and will cost up to £2000 to repair because the tank, the pump, and the sensor will have to be replaced. If you bought it from a dealer in the last 30 days, return it for a refund or free repair. Otherwise you must bear the cost yourself.