cliffcoggin

I believe there is a bonnet switch that prevents the wipers from working, though how that might affect engine ignition I have no idea.

Photos will not help; measurements will.

A wise decision. Rubber degrades even when not in use.

Not so. If you have opened any part of the coolant system air will be introduced whether there is flow or not.

The value is whatever somebody is prepared to pay for it, whether that be £100 or £10000. You could look for guidance at prices in Autotrader for example, but price is not the same as value.

Yes it may take a few days to burn off any residual oil.

Randy. Read the whole topic to find the answer to your question.

I can't help with the oil warning, except to suggest you take the car back to the garage that removed the instrument panel in case it did not refit the connections correctly. I am curious to know if the garage was an Audi dealer or an independent.

Do you fit the rubber cap on the cable when it is not in use?

Richard. I am unclear of the circumstances of this vibration, so would you clarify for me these points. Is it occurring when the car is stationary? Do you feel the vibration at the steering wheel, the road wheels, or throughout the whole car? Does it happen when the engine is off but the ignition is on?

My guess is laminated glass that is delaminating as water seeps into the edges.

Kieran. That noise is typical of a loose under tray so its not surprising you found it damaged and interfering with the steering, but why do you want to replace it with a heavy steel plate, particularly one without a sump plug hole? Being keen on the car's performance you ought not to be increasing its weight with a slab of steel.

Michail. Something was lost in the translation as "sink" does not make sense in relation to a car. Do you mean "sump", the metal casing at the bottom of the engine?

Did the cambelt break? If it did you could also need a top end because of damaged valves.

I see several online, some of them free, some of them in pdf versions. Try an internet search.

That is not a problem I was aware of, but I trust Steve's experience. You have little to lose by changing the hoses and fluid. It would be cheaper than changing discs so often.

I don't, but they should not be hard to find. I mentioned ECU Testing only because of their proven track record in this forum, not because I prefer them them over others.

Instrument cluster problems happen from time to time on A3s of that era. A new cluster from Audi will cost you silly money, whereas the old cluster can be repaired by companies such as ECU Testing for less than £300. You will have to remove, post, and refit the cluster if you choose to have it repaired. Scan through this forum's history for examples of people in a similar position who have had their clusters repaired successfully.

If power is getting to the light fitting I would check if the power can also get out again i.e. check the earth.

That's a risky assumption. Considering that a defective battery can lead to the sort of faults the car is showing I suggest you get it professionally tested, because a simple voltage test under negligible electrical load will not reveal the real condition of the battery.

Which is why so much emphasis was put on service history in your other topic.

Check the aerial connections at the back of the radio and wherever the other end of the cable goes to.

Do I understand correctly that the dealer: wants full payment despite you not having driven it yet, can not supply a full service history, is trying to sell you worthless dealer warranties? If so, you should cancel the deal, walk away and do not look back.

I see several misconceptions here. Firstly, an MOT certificate shows only that the car is roadworthy. It has nothing to do with engine problems so the MOT is irrelevant here. Secondly, low engine power can not be considered a safety issue. That's just fanciful. Thirdly, turbo faults on a seven year old car with 70000 miles on the clock are not unreasonable depending on how harshly it has been driven. It would be considered fair wear and tear so why assume it is a manfacturing problem needing a recall? Fourthly, master mechanic and Audi are contradictory. Take the car for testing at an independent Audi garage. If the turbo proves to be at fault then it will indeed cost several thousand pounds. Fifthly, whether the car is 7 years or 7 months old makes no difference to the cost. Turbos are complex machines made to close tolerances and require expertise and time to fit.

My choice would always be an independent Audi garage whenever possible. Not only are they generally more interested, more reliable, and more knowledgable, they are often cheaper. To put it more bluntly. Do you want to deal with the man with dirty hands who knows what he is talking about, or a clueless bimbo reading a computer screen?