cliffcoggin

Well you mentioned bits of plastic in the fluid, though I don't understand where they came from. I guess if some it got into the system it could limit the piston travel, score a seal, jam a valve. In your position I would dismantle both cylinders for thorough cleaning and blow compressed air through the pipe.

Stephen. If the pedal travel was right before you worked on the hydraulics , and if the only change you have made was the master cylinder, then I still believe you have air in the system. On the other hand if the pedal travel was wrong beforehand you could have a worn clutch.

Ten to one you still have air in the system. Since your Eezibleed kit doesn't seem to work properly I suggest you adopt the old-fashioned way of bleeding that requires two people to do the job: one to operate the pedal, the other to operate the bleed screw and top up the reservoir. Briefly the process is: Fill the reservoir. Attach a clear piece of tubing to the bleed nipple with the lower end in a jar. Open the bleed screw about half a turn. Push and hold the pedal down. Close the bleed screw. Lift the pedal. Repeat those steps until no bubbles are seen in the fluid coming out of the slave cylinder. It is essential the reservoir level is not run down to the point that air is drawn in again.

I know nothing of Audi headlight washers but those on my old Granada worked entirely automatically: both the headlights and the wipers had to be on for the washers to operate. Mind you that was 25 years ago, maybe things have regressed since then.

Has it always behaved like this? Have you changed the wiper motor perhaps? The last time I opened a wiper motor (a few decades ago,) the arm travel was fixed by the size of the linkage within.

I have not changed the pads on mine, nevertheless I agree with Gareth. The clips exist for a reason; if they were unnecessary they wouldn't be fitted and pads would be cheaper.

Jess. You need to bleed the air out of the fuel system all the way from the tank to the injectors. Usually the injectors have to be removed and the engine cranked until nothing but fuel comes out of the injectors. It's a messy stinking job which your partner should carry out to ensure he never runs out of fuel again. <G>

Lindsay I am not sure what fault you are describing. Are you saying the key won't enter the barrel, won't turn once entered, or won't operate the switch once entered and turned?

Hello Geoff. (Love the beer name.) I can't be certain, but I would expect sports suspension to have tighter shock absorbers as well as shorter springs so its possible you would have to change both. A change may also affect the steering geometry so you need to be certain of the answers before committing to altering anything.

Chris. Car dealers are not renown for their charity and you are now discovering why the car was so cheap. In my view if the engine is clapped out, then it's likely the rest of the drive train will also be marginal and the car will become a money pit in the years to come. I'd get rid of it as soon as possible.

Please do Martyn, particularly with the source of the unit and your comments on it as I am interested in getting one.

Was the fuel consumption normal before you changed the induction kit? If so, the solution is obvious.

It is possible that non-sensor pads have been fitted as an economy measure.

You mean the seller doesn't know?

Phillip. As Tom said, hot brakes would only be caused if they were binding, and that's easy to diagnose: if one or more wheels feel unusually hot (more than body temperature) after a journey then the brakes are binding. Does the car pull to one side under braking? That's another symptom of a brake binding. I suspect your problem is more likely to be defective master cylinder seals or water contaminated brake fluid.

So tell us what the thing is that is rattling because it doesn't look like a fuel line. How did you cure your problem?

Despite the error message about the aerial, it seems too much of a coincidence that the radio does not work at the same time as a CD is jammed in. Is there no way to forcibly extract the CD with snipe nose pliers for example once the radio is dismantled? Perhaps that would enable the radio to be selected.

That's done the trick Trevor. Many thanks.

I suspect the problem is that the pop up is an intrinsic part of this site, so no matter what extra filters I install in Chrome OS and UbO the thing keeps appearing. I'll keep looking for ways to eradicate it, but if unsuccessful I shall withdraw from the forum.

The past few days a pop-up advertisement for Driven has appeared on this forum whenever I open the site. My ad-blocker (Ublock Origin) is normally very effective at stopping these horrid intrusions but it has not worked this time. Has anybody found a solution yet?

Pete. That is not simply a plug to seal the hole. It is the mounting grommet that holds the lamp unit in place, so it needs to be the right part to grip the metal peg. I have no idea what Audi calls it but most mechanics would recognise the term grommet.

In that case I am out of my depth. I do know that speakers have to be the right impedance for the radio (i.e. matched for the output strength,) but whether that is the problem or you lack some other adaptor for the extra cable I have no idea. Let's hope somebody else has can help.

I am a little confused. Is it the new speakers that aren't working properly or the new radio?

Forgive me for being blunt Anthony but if I had just bought a car with a indicator fault, a washer fault, a glowplug fault, and a loss of coolant, I would be hammering at the seller's door demanding a refund.

In the old days before electronics and canbus and computers were fitted to cars, that sort of problem was usually caused by a bad earth at the lamp unit.