cliffcoggin

Daniel. The warning light is on for a reason, as is the rattle. If the dealer was truly legitimate he would do something about them. Don't be a mug, walk away from the car.

You can get them approximately aligned with the front wheels by clamping a length of straight wood against the rims and adjusting the toe in visually. You will probably need to use spacer blocks to clear the tyres. Bounce the suspension a few times after adjustment, then check again.

That's right Michael. You have A4 under your name so I assumed you asked about A4.

Mr. Google tells me: http://fusesdiagram.com/audi/fuses-and-relay-audi-a4-b6.html

Are you sure you have not mixed up two HT leads?

Tyres are a good point Scott. If the tyres are not matched or are fitted the wrong way round Mike could get some odd handling problems on different surfaces. Thinking even further, are the tyres at the right pressure and is the tracking correct?

The white smoke may or may not be related to the water loss, so I suggest the leak should be sorted out before worrying about the smoke. The water can only escape from the coolant system via: [1] an external leak from the radiator/hoses/pump/thermostat/pump etc. You should be able to see a wet spot or dried crud around the leak. Alternatively a pressure test of the cooling system will confirm. [2] an internal leak to the engine if the head gasket is damaged. A compression test of the engine will confirm. (A compression test may also reveal other causes for white smoke such as worn bores and valves. Are you using a lot of oil?) Both tests can be done by a competent home mechanic if you are prepared to buy the equipment, or you take the car to someone who is.

Just a guess on my part, but if you open the window fully would it be possible to reach down the gap and catch the lock mechanism or its linkage with a length of stiff wire?

A fair assumption.

A worn clutch usually has a high bite point and it slips, i.e the engine revs but the road speed does not increase. Furthermore I have never heard of a worn clutch making any noise. None of which is to say your clutch is not worn, but I suspect something else is going on.

Why do say that? Does the switch incorporate a latching circuit?

The O/S/F electric window of my 2007 A3 sometimes loses the automatic function which allows a brief press on the switch to completely open or close it. I can still operate the window by holding the switch down or up so the motor and switch are clearly still working, but I need to reset the automatic function (by holding the switch up for two seconds after closure,) more and more frequently. The Haynes manual gives no clue about how this automatic function is controlled. Does anybody here know?

This is the sort of thing I use: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-154006-Mechanics-Stethoscope-320/dp/B001C0RYPG

Sindre. I can't positively identify the noise, but I echo Gareth's suggestion of using a stethoscope to listen to the bearings on the alternator and other auxiliaries. Get the type with a solid rod rather than a rubber disc like doctors use. Alternatively try a "screwdriver stethoscope" if you care to live dangerously, which is just a long screwdriver that you touch the tip to a metal part and the handle to your ear. It will amplify the noise very well but could be painful if there is much vibration.

I do know that door locks and radio are supplied by separate fuses, so I think the most likely common fault would be a bad earth. Have a look at the battery terminals and the fuseboard earthing as a first step.

Patrick. Unfortunately you now see why your cheap repair is so cheap. Why not forget about a few of the mods you had planned and get the basics done properly before splashing out on fancy lights and the like.

Have you tried a breaker's yard? I relied on them for numerous parts many years ago when new parts were unnecessary or too expensive, but they seems to be an ignored resource nowadays, even though many breakers are on line.

I hate to think what your insurance premiums are if it is cheaper to pay the £500 yourself.

If only the paint is damaged, not the metal, then one of the mobile "scratch and paint" repairers that come out to you should be able to deal with the problem for two or three hundred quid. However it is hard to imagine that a scratch that runs across a door pillar and the edge of a wheel arch could do so without creasing the metal. If the repair truly is expensive it may be worth claiming on insurance if you have comprehensive.

Another stripped thread Will? Perhaps your mechanic should stick to tractors. <g> I agree with others that forcing on oversized bolt, (even one that has been grooved with a flute or two,) into the hole is a bodge more suited to your mechanic, and would in any case push swarf into the sump, but unlike Gareth I would happily use a proper tap. However to do the job I would want the sump removed and mounted on a drill or mill table to get the correct angle, then cleaned thoroughly of swarf before fitting to the engine. I doubt that would be easier or even necessarily cheaper than buying a secondhand sump from a breakers yard.

Fair enough Will. I had to ask as it's an easy spelling mistake that a spell checker would not detect. As a matter of interest what is an oil filter cap? I only know of disposable filter canisters.

The most likely source of oil to my mind is the oil cooler. A pressure test should settle the matter.

Ensure the cambelt and water pump were changed. It should have been done at about 70000 miles.

About £700 is what I paid early this year for belt and pump at a main dealer. It seems to be a typical cost. Yes it is expensive, but skimping on quality or time interval can be vastly more so.

Do you really mean filter cap? I see lots of of Audi oil FILLER caps on Ebay,. I have not looked for specific models.