cliffcoggin

Sorry Lee, I will not download anything from strangers. Put your videos on a public platform that checks for malware and I'll be happy to look at them. Having said that, I doubt they will add any more information to what you have written. It is clear your engine was modified without investigation of the DPF fault, and then serviced by a cowboy who did not know what he was doing. Given all the alterations to the engine the best advice I can give is to take the car either to a proper Audi mechanic or to an independent Audi specialist. It will be probably be expensive, and may involve returning the engine to standard condition, but I reckon starting from a clean slate gives you the best chance of a reliable car once more.

I would not place much reliance on the code reader unless it is a professional grade. The cheap readers often give misleading results causing owners to waste money on uneccesary and expensive parts. I suggest you get a professional diagnosis before spending any more money. Before you do even that, tell us how old the battery is.

I agree with Gareth that little short of an engine rebuild is going to solve the problem, however I do wonder where the oil is going. If it is being burnt at that rate I would expect a lot of blue smoke from the exhaust, if it is leaking externally there would be wet patches on and under the engine, if it is leaking internally the cooling system or gearbox would fill with oil.

Ah yes, on reading again I see you did mention that initially. I am still unclear how much oil it is using. You said you topped up "a little" after 5000 miles, but what is a little? A quarter litre, a half litre, a litre? Am I right in assuming your first report of 5 litres was not a top up, but a complete change as is normal during a service?

What makes you say that? Air only gets into the system if the level in the reservoir is allowed to drop too far, and the usual cause of that is a leak. Have you had to top up the reservoir? Look closely at the two cylinders before the rains come. The black dirt around the cylinder should be bone dry, but even the slightest trace of moistness in that dirt indicates a leak.

Now that's a point Geoffrey. If they are turn indicators they would need to be yellow to comply with Construction & Use Regs.

If the clutch is hydraulicly operated there are two likely possibilities: [1] A leak from the seals of the master cylinder or the slave cylinder. Look for wetness at both places, and renew as necessary. [2] Air in the fluid. Bleed the whole hydraulic system until no more air bubbles are expelled. If the clutch is cable operated there should be an adjuster. Will you be doing the job yourself?

My 2 litre diesel never had any problems doing mainly short (<30 miles) on slow country roads, plus the occasional 40 miles motorway journey. That you would even consider increasing atmospheric pollution by removing the DPF and EGR is appalling.

They appear to be LED strips. Do they turn on with the head or side lights? I am fairly sure they are not standard fitments, so a previous owner must have installed them.

I don't download anything from strangers. Attach the picture to your message Jake, or put it on a public platform that scans for malware.

I see no "yellow plastic bits" in your picture. A better photo and description might help.

Can we presume the lack of any news indicates the new clutch has solved the problem?

Asif. You have not mentioned yet, or I missed it if you have, what engine you have. Diesel or petrol?

Asif. One of the Audi petrol engines was notorious for rapid oil consumption caused, I believe, by a manufacturing fault. I don't recall which engine it was because the problem did not affect me, having a diesel, but one of the other regular contributors here may have more detailed information. If it turns out yours is one of the affected engines there is little you can do. If it is not then we need to investigate the more usual culprits of wear and tear. How many miles has the car done? Does it have a full service history? Did you buy it from a dealer?

Forget about code readers and computer diagnostics. Get the battery tested by a deep discharge method which puts a heavy electrical load on it and will reveal problems that a normal volt meter will not detect.

Kelly. Your problem has nothing to do with this thread, and should really be a topic of its own. I suggest you ask a moderator to move it to avoid confusion with other responses and other problems.

Nevertheless it's worth getting it tested.

I wonder if a previous owner fitted after market speakers on the rear shelf at one point, which he then removed before selling the car, leaving the original speakers without any wiring.

Not an identical experience but close enough that it may be relevent. Occasionally mine (also a 2 litre diesel from 2007) would simultaneously show a brake warning light, lose cruise control, lose air con, lose radio presets, and go into limp mode. A few minutes rest restored normal operation. The cause was recognised by a local VAG specialist, who ignored all the false error codes, as a defective battery. Have you had any other strange electrical faults? Was the engine slow to crank over when starting last winter? How old is your battery?

What makes you believe that either the sensor or the cat is defective? Have you considered that there might be a fault with the engine?

Wes. From the limited description of the symptoms it's unlikely anybody can give a precise diagnosis because there are so many possible causes of the problem. Your best option is to have it tested professionally. You have not mentioned the mileage but a 15 year old car is no spring chicken, and should have a long service history. The lack of any such history looks very suspicious.

If the only recommended solution is a new roof, then you have nothing to lose by trying to glue it back. The bath sealant type of silicone mastic is a good adhesive if you can clamp the joint while it cures, though I have not used it for this particular repair. Be aware that many of those silicones are stabilised with acetic acid (vinegar), the fumes of which can corrode adjacent metal parts so ventilate well.

As the battery is only two years old it is unlikely to be the cause of the problems, though I would not entirely rule it out. In your position I would have it deep discharge tested just to be sure. If the faults lie elsewhere I doubt I can contribute anything useful so I shall leave it to others to assist.

If you want help with a fault you have to be precise in your description of it, and that does not always happen. For example we had a correspondant recently who did not know the difference between a tachometer and a speedometer. So I make no apology for questioning which particular light you wrote about. In an effort to be helpful I asked at the end of your previous topic about the battery. I have yet to read your answer.

There are many dashboard lights. Which particular one do you mean by "engine light"? Is this the same car you mentioned in your topics of April 17th and the one before that, and are you still taking it to the same cowboy garage for diagnosis?