cliffcoggin

Rob. That's where the Haynes manual is unclear. It says you loosen the screw through the door opening, but whether that means the window slot, the inner face, or under the exterior handle I really don't know. Even the manual photos don't help, being tiny, black & white, and printed on poor quality paper. Going back to the metal rod, does the latch operate if you move it up and down? If so I reckon it is disconnected at the handle end.

Robert. As the solenoid evidently works, the problem must be mechanical. There is a rod from the door handle connected by a plastic clip to the latch mechanism which I reckon is either broken or detached. That is what you need to get at. Unfortunately I don't personally know how to get access to it, and the manual is not very clear, though it does say to first remove the lock cylinder by loosening (not removing) the Torx screw underneath the door handle, then removing the glass. Sorry I can't help further than that. Do let us know how you get on.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=audi+a3+instrument+cluster+repair&atb=v33-7__&ia=web

There are several companies advertising cluster repair, and I am sure the cost was well below £300.

Ashley. Repeating your problem in this topic while ignoring the questions and suggestions in your own topic is pointless, so I shall withdraw from both.

Raymond. If the rockers were broken it was because the valves hit the crowns of the pistons, so they are likely to also be damaged. Have you pulled the pistons out for inspection?

Ashley. Look at this topic: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/17097-a3-sportback-16-overheating-issue/ You may find it enlightening, though it is unfortunate that the questionner has not responded with any outcome.

Ashley. While the engine overheating and the lack of cabin heat may be related, it is also possible they are two distinct and separate faults. Clearly the high engine temperature is the more important so I suggest you get the engine compression tested as a first step. That should tell whether the head or its gasket is damaged. If it is then you are facing an expensive repair and the cabin heater problem becomes insignificant.

Nicholas. If I understand you correctly the engine is overheating while the radiator stays cold and there is no loss of water. If so there is clearly no circulation of water. That may be caused by: [1] Blocked water galleries in the engine, (very unlikely but not impossible). [2] A defective pump, (also unlikely as you it done recently). [3] A defective thermostat, (possible if it has not yet been changed.) [4] An air lock in the cooling system. If I was a betting man I would put money on this being your problem. It often occurs after work on the cooling system and can be a devil to get rid of. Search online and you will find various suggestions of ways to resolve the problem. I am also equally certain that the problem is nothing to do with the head gasket or a cracked head, and I am surprised your garage even suggested it. Time to find a new mechanic I believe.

It must be possible to an electronics expert, which I am not. I question whether such a modification would get through an MOT test.

I would be surprised if he has not checked the connection already, but I suppose it is worth asking. If you trust him and he says you need a new harness I don't think you have any choice but to get one, but it is a hell of a coincidence that the problem with the harness started the day after the injectors were worked on.

Zack. While I generally have little faith in error codes, it is plausible in this case that the injector harness was damaged during the repair or has not been properly reconnected. Why has the mechanic who did the work not rectified the fault?

Eluan. There are so many things that could be causing your problem, such as low compression, fuel delivery faults, ECU faults, ignition faults etc, that I find it impossible to make any sensible suggestions from just a few seconds of audio. Sorry, but I see no alternative to professional help local to you. If the dealerships can not diagnose the problem why not try an independent mechanic. I realise you may not have the range of options that we have in England but there must be some good mechanics in a country the size of Brazil.

Chris. My guess, and I stress guess, is that either the instrument cluster or the ECU has failed. I suggest testing by an automotive electrician. As far as I know the ECU can not be repaired however the panel can be.

Glad to hear it is sorted.

Three failures in succession suggests to me that the cause lies elsewhere, unless they were unfit for purpose. To add to Gareth's ideas I would also check all the wiring between sensor and loom, particularly the connectors. Look for cracked or damaged insulation, dirty or corroded contacts, loose plug connections etc.

There is something wrong here Lewis. Either you misunderstood what he said or he is extracting the urine. [1] An engine does not take in air through the oil filler cap. It might spay a bit of oil if the cap is missing, but it will not take in air and it will not make a noise. [2] It is rare for an injector to fail, it is verging on the unbelievable for its new replacement to fail two months later unless there is an underlying cause that has not been rectified. Nevertheless if the engine is missing on one cylinder it would sound like yours.

Really? So what specifically do they mean by that, and what do they propose to rectify the fault? It would help if you mentioned which engine and fuel you have.

New or not, it can still be defective, especially if it is a cheap after market sensor. If you paid for it to be done I suggest you take the car back to him. On the other hand there may be something else involved. Why did you change it in the first place? Are there any other symptoms?

Sounds a little like a timing chain (if you have one) and/or tensioner rattle. Your garage should advise you.

Good luck with that John. Real Audi parts and good quality non-Audi parts are notoriously expensive, so if you find any please let us know.

Daniel. The evidence I have read on this forum suggests that error codes are almost useless for diagnosing faults, so I do not believe you need to change the coils a second time. Possibly you may not have needed to change them the first time as they are generally reliable. Look back through recent posts in this forum for suggestions of alternative causes of your misfire. They include the ECU, the injectors, and low compression. As a first step I would get the compression pressure tested to ensure the essential components of the engine are in good order before investigating the auxiliary components.

Octavian. You have used a decent quality oil so there is no point wasting money by changing it again. Your problem lies elsewhere.

Why make things difficult for yourself by messing around with part numbers when all you want are the parts? Search for "used audi car parts" in your favourite search engine and you'll find dozens of sources, none of which require you to know the part number.

Nobody knows Audi part numbers better than Audi themselves, so why not ask them?