cliffcoggin

Three failures in succession suggests to me that the cause lies elsewhere, unless they were unfit for purpose. To add to Gareth's ideas I would also check all the wiring between sensor and loom, particularly the connectors. Look for cracked or damaged insulation, dirty or corroded contacts, loose plug connections etc.

There is something wrong here Lewis. Either you misunderstood what he said or he is extracting the urine. [1] An engine does not take in air through the oil filler cap. It might spay a bit of oil if the cap is missing, but it will not take in air and it will not make a noise. [2] It is rare for an injector to fail, it is verging on the unbelievable for its new replacement to fail two months later unless there is an underlying cause that has not been rectified. Nevertheless if the engine is missing on one cylinder it would sound like yours.

Really? So what specifically do they mean by that, and what do they propose to rectify the fault? It would help if you mentioned which engine and fuel you have.

New or not, it can still be defective, especially if it is a cheap after market sensor. If you paid for it to be done I suggest you take the car back to him. On the other hand there may be something else involved. Why did you change it in the first place? Are there any other symptoms?

Sounds a little like a timing chain (if you have one) and/or tensioner rattle. Your garage should advise you.

Good luck with that John. Real Audi parts and good quality non-Audi parts are notoriously expensive, so if you find any please let us know.

Daniel. The evidence I have read on this forum suggests that error codes are almost useless for diagnosing faults, so I do not believe you need to change the coils a second time. Possibly you may not have needed to change them the first time as they are generally reliable. Look back through recent posts in this forum for suggestions of alternative causes of your misfire. They include the ECU, the injectors, and low compression. As a first step I would get the compression pressure tested to ensure the essential components of the engine are in good order before investigating the auxiliary components.

Octavian. You have used a decent quality oil so there is no point wasting money by changing it again. Your problem lies elsewhere.

Why make things difficult for yourself by messing around with part numbers when all you want are the parts? Search for "used audi car parts" in your favourite search engine and you'll find dozens of sources, none of which require you to know the part number.

Nobody knows Audi part numbers better than Audi themselves, so why not ask them?

Well you signed up and started a new topic, so it's plain sailing from now on. Ask a question; even better, answer one; the more the merrier.

Clive. From what I have read on this forum, even Audi dealers' equipment can not be relied upon to give reliable diagnoses, so I doubt an Ebay purchase will be better. An auto electrician might be a better bet.

Igor. Considering the puddle of oil is right next to the oil filler cap I'd say that is the most likely candidate. Is the cap tight? Is there a seal under the cap? If not, crankcase pressure may have blown oil out of the filler neck.

Can you post a picture and tell us its dimensions and colour please?

Glad to read of it.

Naeem. I know nothing about your particular car, but I can say that there bound to be a relay somewhere. The current used by demisters is too high to be handled by a dashboard switch alone.

Laurie. If you can not decide for yourself if the oil leak is serious or not, your only sensible choices are either to consult an expert or to walk away from the car, because nobody can give a definite diagnosis on the basis of a brief written description in this forum. I don't know how reliable dealer guarantees are in Mallorca, but over here I would not rely on one because they generally exclude "fair wear and tear" which is open to wide interpretation.

Jovanche. [1] Yes a compression test gauge is needed for a compression test. Whether it is worth buying one for a single use when it is something any garage will be equipped to do is up to you. [2] Having checked the manual I see the fuel pumps are combined into one tandem pump. You said the pump seals have been changed, but have the valve seats been checked to ensure they do not pass fuel backwards? The pump is not capable of being adequately tested by the average home mechanic, so it would be better to get a garage to do the job. [3] The heater plugs use the same temperature sensor as the panel gauge i.e. the engine sensor, which means it signals via the ECU. I suggest you do not replace the heater plugs without clear proof they are defective. The chances are that if anything is interfering with fuel delivery it will be the ECU or one of the sensors that signal it. That again is not something most home mechanics can deal with.

Jovanche. Your hot starts are not unusually prolonged to my way of thinking. There's a rattle for a few seconds after firing, but it's an old engine and the oil has drained back faster than it would in a new engine. Your cold starts are a different matter. I have the same engine and the ambient temperature here is much the same as where you are, however my engine fires after turning over for less than three seconds. I suggest you investigate: [1] The compression pressures. A worn engine takes time to develop enough compression to ignite the mixture. [2] The two fuel pumps. Worn pumps can allow fuel to drain back to the tank, hence it takes time to refill the injectors. [3] The temperature sensor and heater plugs. Your mechanic's theory about the lack of a cold signal to initiate the heaters is perfectly feasible, though it is not something I have come across.

That's very odd Nathan. Having a high level in the water reservoir does not normally affect the fan. I wonder if you have a faulty level switch which is somehow interfering with the electronic control system.

It's a 12 year old car Laurie, so of course it won't be perfect and you must expect some defects. However the oil leak may be something as simple and cheap to rectify as a poorly sealed oil filter, or it might be a crankshaft seal that requires an expensive engine rebuild. I suggest you get it inspected by a qualified car mechanic before handing over any cash. Whatever you decide, do not be fobbed off by anything the car salesman tells you: they are experts in deceiving you without actually telling lies. Edited to correct a naming error. Sorry Laurie, I don't know where I got James from.

James. If you are happy to have secondhand parts, and why wouldn't you for non-safety items, order them from on-line car breakers.

Ha! So much for the diagnostic codes.

Congratulations on diagnosing the problem. I have never heard of an injector sticking open until now, and would not have imagined it be even possible. Does the engine run well now?

Thanks Moira. Few of those who consult us have the courtesy to let us know the outcome of their problems.