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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. cliffcoggin
    If it has not been repaired properly, and from your comment about a crack it doesn't sound as if it has, the car will flex and bend on uneven ground. Bend it one way and the doors will close, bend it another and they won't. You really need to get it inspected by a competent mechanic, not just a mate or an armchair expert from next door, because if I am right your car is a death trap and should be taken off the road until correctly repaired.
  2. cliffcoggin
    There's your answer sadly. It's as bent as a nine bob note.
  3. cliffcoggin
    Has it been in a crash?
  4. cliffcoggin
    Can there be any doubt about it?
  5. cliffcoggin
    Julia. One way or another you are going to be faced with a big bill so you might as well bite the bullet now, because even a Skoda or VW rack is not going to be significantly cheaper once fitting charges are included. At one time if you scrapped a British registered car in France you could find yourself liable for French import duty. I don't know if that is still the case, but you need to investigate that possibility when making your decision about repair.
  6. cliffcoggin
    Try a scrap yard. Many are on line and specialise in Audi parts. That's the way I got a replacement headrest last year.
  7. cliffcoggin
    Fair enough. I haven't a clue what all the letters mean in the model names.
  8. cliffcoggin
    Does the engine have a turbo-charger? Turbos are supposed kick in at 2000 rpm or just above.
  9. cliffcoggin
    Definitely a short circuit, which is probably why the fuse was removed by the previous owner. It needs to come out for repair or replacement.
  10. cliffcoggin
    David. Of course there is something more sinister going on, because spark plugs routinely don't fail without a reason. You even said that your garage told you the reason and the cost to fix it, so why not go back and ask them again. They have seen the car, we haven't.
  11. cliffcoggin
    Agreed about the clutch, but I reckon the selector linkage also has one or more collapsed bushes.
  12. cliffcoggin
    Worn differentials are known to whine when decelerating. You tell us there is an oil leak from the diff and excessive slack in the output shaft. It seems an open and shut case to me of a clapped out diff.
  13. cliffcoggin
    Can we assume it is an automatic? Have you checked the oil level?
  14. cliffcoggin
    Years ago a thicker oil was used to silence the rattle of a worn engine. If your engine has no serious wear, (which it should not have unless it's been thrashed by a boy racer,) I would stick to the manufacturer's recommended grade of oil.
  15. cliffcoggin
    I agree Gareth. It could be false economy not to renew the slave cylinder. Here's an old platitude that's actually true, "Do a job properly and you only do it once; do it poorly and you'll be doing it again and again."
  16. cliffcoggin
    You may well be right Gareth, as I don't know any details of the circuitry to be certain; but logically it would be a pretty poor design of lamp test if it could be negated by a faulty switch. I've looked in my Haynes manual and it says nothing can be done to the instrument panel and the whole thing has to be replaced if faulty. The circuit diagram is equally unhelpful, but then I am no electrician. It does show the cluster connected to the CAN bus, which to my mind suggests computer control rather than hard-wired.
  17. cliffcoggin
    Dear God. So far you've told us it has bald tyres, broken springs, a burnt out instrument panel, and a dodgy flywheel. What made you buy it?
  18. cliffcoggin
    Gareth. I believe you probably have a failed bulb rather than a failed switch. All the dashboard lights should come on when the ignition is first switched on as a lamp test irrespective of whether the pressure switch etc. is functional, therefore no lamp equals faulty bulb.
  19. cliffcoggin
    How can springs be worn out after just 7 years? Are they made of butter?
  20. cliffcoggin
    OK all you can do is work your way through all the possibilities, but that could take a lot of time and effort. Start by looking at the obvious things like air filter, fuel pump & injectors.
  21. cliffcoggin
    It could be dozens of things causing the fault Tally. Rather than wildly guess at it and send you on many wild goose chases, you would be better advised to have the problem analysed by someone with the right equipment. It would be cheaper in the end.
  22. cliffcoggin
    Not sure I agree with your first paragraph Gareth. Moaning and complaining is a source of pleasure to me, now that the more salacious aspects of life are behind me. Clifford.
  23. cliffcoggin
    I can't answer your questions Gareth, but I do agree the dipstick markings are abysmal. To read the level of black oil against a serrated brown plastic lump is nearly impossible. Years ago dipsticks were bare shiny metal with high and low notches cut into them, and were simple to read.
  24. cliffcoggin
    In your position Ben, I would find out what is wrong with it, (all s/h cars have faults in my view,) get the costs to put right anything you can't live with, add those costs to the purchase price, and then assess if you can or want to spend that much money.
  25. cliffcoggin
    It all depends on condition, and you are the only one who can assess that.
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