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cliffcoggin

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Everything posted by cliffcoggin

  1. Skyler mentioned using the car on a track which I interpreted as racing, hence my suggestion of the 3.2 engine, but since he has not had the courtesy to aknowledge our responses or provide any more information I guess we'll never know.
  2. Why not another Audi 2 litre engine? I suppose you could change it for the 3.2 litre if you also swap the transmission, suspension, wheels, and brakes to suit, but then might as well have bought a 3.2 in the first place. As for the transmission, if you are satisfied with the manual gearbox, keep it. I don't understand why you would ask the question.
  3. Craig if you know the battery to be weak then the first thing to do is fit a new one, not a clapped out old one from your other car. Duff batteries are known to cause a variety of apparently unrelated electrical and electronic problems, so a new battery alone may solve the problem with the gear indicator lights. It is likely that new battery will need to be coded to the car.
  4. Craig said he replaced the column not the rack. Does the column also need to be coded?
  5. I thought it was an air lock when you first raised the matter. Your report of a dry heater matrix only confirms my opinion. It is a common problem after any work on the cooling system that involves draining any of the coolant. There are several methods posted on-line to deal with air locks which can be difficult to shift from the A3, though I admit I have not tried them myself.
  6. All I can suggest is a visit to a car breaker to buy a seat you can take the parts from.
  7. Are you sure the controls alone are missing? It would be very odd to remove them. Is it possible the whole seat been changed for a non-standard one?
  8. I can't help with the details of the wiring. Have you looked on line for wiring diagrams? I know I have seen them in the past. It would be worth checking if the car's original wiring will withstand the extra current resulting from using two fans.
  9. What about the wiring do you dislike? Is it unsafe, untidy, ugly colours? Being" not keen" on it tells us nothing.
  10. On second thoughts it would be better to have the wheels inspected first by somebody without a vested interest in the outcome. The garage that left the nuts loose is hardly a disinterested party.
  11. Take it back to the garage that did the work and have the wheels inspected. There is a real chance they have been damaged around the stud holes.
  12. Sounds like an air lock in the cooling system. Given you know nothing about cars I suggest you take it to a garage.
  13. So quickly? That's even better. Thanks for letting us know.
  14. Paul. What a lot of words to say your battery won't hold a charge. Driving it once per week will not replace the charge used in starting the engine unless you drive it for at least an hour. It would be better and cheaper to put it on a trickle charger overnight once per fortnight. Allowing the battery to go flat will damage it so vigilance is necessary. As for buying a new battery for £30, I'd guess you haven't bought a battery for a few decades.
  15. So it was an external leak after all. O well it's a cheaper repair than the alternatives.
  16. No, it is not normal to top up the coolant every two weeks. I did mine every two years. Yes, you do have a leak. The problem is finding precisely where it is leaking from. Accepting that there is no external leak leaves only three possibilities: the coolant is entering the combustion chambers, (via the head gasket or cracked head for example,) and hence to the exhaust, or it is getting into the sump, or it is boiling off and being vented from the pressure cap. Answers to the questions from Steve and Gareth will help determine what is going on.
  17. That's good news. Do let us know if it solves the problem.
  18. When the battery of my 2007 car was changed it had to be coded.
  19. The new battery will certainly need coding to the car, even if it does not solve the steering problem.
  20. This problem crops up from time to time on the forum. Look at this topic for information on a successful repair: https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/15463-front-door-wiring-loom-replacement-and-locks/#comment-54350
  21. I agree the gear ratios are likely to be different in a 4 cylinder car. I would be very wary of buying a secondhand gearbox from outside Finland via Ebay unless it had a cast iron guarantee that included return carriage. Over here we have car breakers (aka dismantlers or recyclers,) who often sell parts on line. Is there such a system in Finland, or do cars have to be taken to official Audi recyclers? I think your best option would be to find a specialist gearbox rebuilder who will renew broken parts and fit new bearings. Such companies exist here so I daresay you will have them too in a country with a long rallying tradition.
  22. Mike. Before delving any deeper into passenger doors I suggest you re-examine the driver's door wiring because it controls the ability of other doors to unlock. You could think of it as the master switch for the other doors. If you do have to remove the passenger door cards you should then be able find and pull the link rod that operates the lock.
  23. You have nothing to lose by digging out the switch and testing it. It occurs to me that window and door lock problems are often caused by the breakage of the wires passing through the tubular bellows between the door hinges. If the wires for your alarm disable switch also pass along the same route they may also suffer the same fate.
  24. Gilly. I cannot offer any constructive help except to say the switch worked to disable the interior alarm on mine on the few occaisions I used it when leaving the dog in the car.
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