cliffcoggin

That looks good Michael. If you are happy with the result mark it as Solution.

Many people have. Look through the forum history to find various suggestions for the cause and possible solutions.

Sort of. ABS prevents the wheels locking up which means the car can still be steered. (A tyre that is sliding on the road can not provide traction, braking or steering.) It does not make the brakes more effective. The penalty for ABS is the vibration, which can be quite violent, felt throughout the car as the brakes are rapidly applied and released. If you have a partly seized caliper be grateful for ABS for preventing the car going into a spin. ABS in those circumstances is not unneeded.

You're right there. Complacency amongst Western manufacturers about the future of electric cars allowed Chinese companies to gain a technological advantage and a significant market share. The Westerners, spurred on by our decisions concerning climate change, are now scrambling to catch up with the Chinese and making mistakes in the process. It's not inconceivable that some companies such as Ford will face financial ruin as a result of their decisions regarding EVs, but that whole subject is wildly off topic so I'll say no more here.

Ah, that makes sense.

My speculation from the phrase "running out of road" is that the braking is harsh enough to trigger the ABS system. The rapid sequence of brake & release pulses can cause vibration.

Thanks Ali.

To my way of thinking a recall is an expensive process that implies something drastic, possibly dangerous, has been overlooked at the design or construction or inspection stages of the car's production. If the fault is not drastic or dangerous then it can wait until a scheduled service, and a recall is unnecessary.

Why that one in particular Steve, when the driver's seat gets much more use?

I can't answer your question Ali, but I am keen to know more about the petrol leak. Was the leak from the car's fuel system or from a can of petrol in the boot.

Four recalls on a car that is only a year old! That's got to be a new low point for Audi.

Given that: 1/ nobody has access to any hard date regarding durability testing of belts, 2/ Audi advice has been inconsistent and variable over the years, it becomes a matter of opinion and experience when a belt should be changed. I would prefer to change the belt too often rather then too rarely despite the high cost, because the consequences of belt failure are vastly more costly. Others may choose to delay the change as long as possible and risk a wrecked engine. How lucky do you feel?

Axle stands would do the job, but you would need to know where to place them for safe access underneath. Even more crucial is knowing how to jack the car up without risk of injury to yourself or damage to the car in order to place the axle stands. If you don't have that expertise then pay somebody to do the job.

I can not add anything more specific Fabio, except to repeat that either there is a high resistance or there is too much current being drawn for the size of the conductors. It needs an electrician to measure the current to identify the cause.

Congratulations, and thanks for reporting your success.

Come out the side? Radiators usually have a top connection and a bottom connection. Are you saying there are additional connections?

Glad you got the screws out. I don't know about your replacement O rings, but be cautious what you fit. There are many different types of rubber, (natural, nitrile, EPDM, silicone for example,) which have different properties in terms of oil resistance, temperature resistance, flexibilty, chemical resistance and so on. You need to fit the right ones else they will fail in short order.

I don't recognise them. Could replacements already have been fitted leaving these old parts to be disposed of?

How does one get a shoe trapped in the roof? No, don't answer that. It was a rhetorical question.

Don't be surprised if nobody answers Ferg. Most members here are British and would be unable to help regarding sources in New Zealand.

Are you sure it is not OVO controlling the charging? That's how these "green" energy companies usually limit when you can charge.

The ECU could be inhibiting the starting as Steve suggested and you would need to get the car scanned by a decent code reader to find the fault. On the other hand there may be a more straightforward electrical fault which you can test yourself if you have a suitable multi-meter. Check: the output from the ignition switch, the operation of the starter relay, the soundness of the starter cable connections at both ends, the earth cable/strap of the starter, and the soundness of the battery connections.

Sorry, you've lost me. What seals are you talking about? We were discussing rusted screws.

O rings? I don't know what you are referring to.

Chris. Rusted screws can be a pain to remove. Get as much rust out of the screw sockets as you can so that the Torx driver is fully engaged. The most reliable method to break the rust is to get the screw red hot, but that is out of the question here because of certain damage to everything else in the engine bay. Many people will suggest penetrating oil. Personally I have found it to be useless even when left to soak in for a few hours, but it won't do any harm here. A third method is to strike the screw very hard with a medium size hammer, (1 lb. is a suitable weight), via a brass or similar soft metal drift to avoid damaging the screw head. I can't say if that is feasible here as you need room to swing the hammer and the screw needs to be set in a rigid base, not sheet steel. Possibly your best bet is to twist the Torx driver with locking grips clamped onto the shaft. Press the driver firmly into the screw while turning to prevent it rising out of the splined hole, and hope that neither the screw or the driver splines break. Good luck, you'll need it.