cliffcoggin

David. Given what you have told us about your condition i assume you will not be doing any repairs yourself, and hence will be putting the car into a garage, in which case does it really matter what gearbox is fitted? It will be the garage's problem not yours.

You are not the first to complain of the harsh ride of the SQ5, nor will you be the last.

I remember reading similar nonsense on one of these forums a couple of years ago, but don't recall the outcome. It may pay you to search the subject, but it may take a while as it is a common complaint.

If the new tyres are exactly the same size as the previous tyres I can only guess that the pressures are wrong.

I said he'd try and wriggle out of it. In this case he tried to deflect responsibility onto the warranty company whereas in British law he, the vendor, bears sole liability for defective goods for the first thirty days. There is a good reason secondhand car salesmen have such a dreadful reputation. That's worth bearing in mind when you buy another car.

Is this of interest? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/31355-project-joyce/#comment-131241

If he does not want to do the job, find another mechanic.

They will undoubtedly try to, but a refund is your legal right so hold your ground.

I wonder if the alternator has been damaged. I'm not sure how you would test that without professional equipment.

Has. Paul has not returned to the forum since October last year. A PM might get to him, or it might not.

Thanks for letting us know.

Thanks Lee. I am sure that information will be useful to many. Unfortunately it will not help Mark because he has not been back to the forum since he posed his question on 5th February.

Vanessa. [1] I have no idea how Carplay can drain the battery. I don't even know what a Carplay looks like, but you said it was defective so it seems a likely cause of the problem. [2] I am still suspicious of the battery indicator in your car. To accurately measure battery condition is not an easy task, and the fact that you only get readings of either 10% or 100%, with nothing in between, makes me even more suspicious. [3] It is perfectly possible to charge the battery while it is connected if you use the correct type of charger. The bulky old fashioned high current chargers that output as much as 10 amps would be unwise; a modern so-called intelligent charger that monitors charge level is fine. As i said before, I think you need the help of an auto electrician who can properly test the flow of electricity in to and out of the battery, not a car technician who can only read error codes from a computer.

Please do.

I have merged two identical topics.

The Audi recommendation for cambelt renewal has changed over the years from around 80000 to 140000 and all shades in between, as you will see if you search these forums. The average recommendation from forum members in the trade is around 80000 miles or five years, whichever comes first. It's an expensive job, but nowhere near as expensive as the consequences of cambelt failure i.e. a new engine.

I'm glad to read you can enter the car again. Let us hope the battery has not been damaged by the time it was uncoded. Assuming the battery level shown in the car is accurate it seems that there is something draining the battery. The obvious suspect is the defective car play device, however it would be worth visiting an auto electrician to get confirmation of that before spending any more money. He may find a fault in the alternator for example which can also drain the battery. (It is unfortunate that even specialists sometimes rely too much on the computer, and too little on their brains, when a diagnosis is needed.) In the meantime it would be worth connecting a battery charger overnight if possible, to keep the battery charged.

I have a feeling that the CCM may need to be coded to the car. Not entirely sure though.

You would not believe how hard it is to convince members about the need for battery coding. The old criteria of "if the battery cranks the engine it is fine" refuses to die.

Having eliminated the most likely fault it's time to look elsewhere. If the fault is affecting both rear doors and the boot I doubt all three individual locks are defective, so it must be a control problem, though I would expect VCDS to have revealed it. All I can suggest is an auto electrician.

Any progress on this Anthony?

I have no idea.

Any progress in your quest Terry?

Annual servicing without a doubt. Nobody ever suffered a problem by changing the oil earlier than recommended.

I suggest you go to an independent VAG specialist in your area for the repairs rather than Audi. They are generally cheaper and sometimes more competent than main dealers. An internet search should reveal several. I make no comment on your plans to map the engine for more power. Search these forums for similar topics.