cliffcoggin

I suggest you go to an independent VAG specialist in your area for the repairs rather than Audi. They are generally cheaper and sometimes more competent than main dealers. An internet search should reveal several. I make no comment on your plans to map the engine for more power. Search these forums for similar topics.

Thank you for that comprehensive report. It is something we can refer members to when we get import queries.

Does the manual not give sufficient information? https://www.alpine-electronics.no/fileadmin/user_upload/manuals//2018/CDE-205DAB_UTE-204DAB_UTE-202DAB/OM_CDE-205DAB_UTE-204DAB_UTE-202DAB_EN.pdf

The car's demands for servicing are supposedly calculated from the sort of driving it has done. Ignore those demands and Audi will, rightly or wrongly, have an excuse to void the warranty.

Check the details of the warranty. They are normally worded to require the servicing to be done after a certain time or a certain mileage, whichever comes first.

Congratulations. For the benefit of others on the forum, would you briefly summarise the bureaucratic hurdles you jumped over to register and use the car in the UK please? We get occasional queries from folk who buy Japanese imports.

Sean. I suggest you start a new topic of your own rather than derailing an existing unrelated topic. Feel free to link back to this one if necessary. I have locked this topic to avoid any further confusion.

Coding the battery means to programme the charging system for the type and capacity of the new battery to ensure it is charged at the correct rate. It is done with a computer gadget plugged into the car, and is not something the average owner would do himself. It's the sort of job best left to a professional because of the equipment cost. Unless the coding is done it is possible for the new battery to be damaged. I am curious to know how you are measuring the battery strength as a percentage. The meters I am familiar with give readings in volts not percent. You have not mentioned the extra electrical equipment I asked about, nor any diagnostic work.

Thanks for letting us know. How much is the repair going to cost?

Please do Phil, because I can not believe adding extra oil to the gearbox can solve what is clearly an electronic problem. To my mind the battery and the ECU are still the most likely culprits.

Remapping for more power is going to put more strain on every part of the ten year old engine and transmission, thus reducing the car's overall durability and reliability. The choice is yours, but there is always a price to pay. Don't forget your insurance premium will also probably increase.

Des. Being a brand new car I would expect the dealer you bought it from to be the first person to seek advice from in case it is a fault that comes under the guarantee.

Bon soir/Guten Abend Vanessa. I don't know how to open the car; perhaps others can advise. There are many possible causes for the flat battery so can we start by getting some more information. Was the new battery coded to the car? Have you had any diagnosis done by an electrician? Have you fitted extra electrical equipment such as a satnav, a dash camera, a phone charger, a new stereo system etc?

Sally. Very likely the DMF is failing from your description, however if you are looking for certainty in that diagnosis you will not find it here. Members reading a few lines on this page have less chance of correctly diagnosing the problem than somebody who has actually heard, felt, seen, and driven the car. On the other hand you will not be paying anybody here so we have no vested interests in pointing you in any particular direction. Ultimately you will have to trust somebody's assessment, fork out a lot of money, and hope for the best. Please let us know the outcome.

That does not prove the battery is in good condition, nevertheless I'd agree the ECU/immobiliser is the more likely culprit.

Were the above comments of any help John? I know you have seen them.

As you wish.

The sound. Not necessarily, if the crank or cam angle sensors are not detecting a change in relative positions. The chain tensioner could be worn enough to allow the chain to flop about without being loose enough to allow it to jump a sprocket tooth. It would be worth having it professionally inspected for reassurance.

If it is an after market piece of kit fitted by an amateur it may well have been wired into a non switched power supply. Short of tracing all the wires in the dashboard I cannot suggest anything but a trip to a car audio specialist.

Louis. I suspect a loose timing chain, in which case I recommend you return it to the dealer within 30 days of purchase as it is an expensive job.

The difference is that I know a little about tungsten lighting, but nothing about LED. As Gareth mentioned, the most likely cause is damage to the wires in the rubber corrugated tube between frame and tailgate. Look there first.

Fair enough if you did, but as you did not mention that fact I thought I'd refer you.

Am I right in assuming it is a tungsten bulb, not an LED?

That's odd, I found five immediately at the top of my search results, but then I use Duck Duck Go not Google spyware.

Did you try searching the forums for " brake noise" before leaving the above comment? I found five topics.