cliffcoggin

Did the noise start when you fitted the new tyres? If so, it's the tyres making the noise and there is nothing you can do about it. The noise from tyres varies a lot from brand to brand, just as the wet grip, the endurance, and the price also vary.

Max. It is not unknown for the instrument panel to suffer from the gremlins but as you have had it renovated we can rule it out. The next primary culprit is the battery. You may well have charged it, you may even measure 14 volts at the terminals, but it can still be defective. The only ways to test it are to have it deep discharge tested which involves applying a heavy load during the test, or to renew it.

The level needs to be measured while the car is level for obvious reasons. Have you run the engine yet to fill the filter?

Jack. Having opened the cooling system for EGR removal and a new thermostat, there is a good chance the system is now air locked. It's a common problem. The reduced or even complete loss of flow caused by the air lock would explain the lack of cabin heating, and the level loss as the coolant occaisionally boils away. I had some web sites bookmarked with recommendations on how to deal with the problem, however I can no longer find them, but I daresay you can find suitable information if you ask Mr. Google nicely.

What is MMI? Did it ever work? Who said contact a main dealer? What have you tried to resolve the problem? More information would help us to help you.

Sorry, I can not.

Ian. Gareth is right. Forget about error codes and warning lights until you have had the battery tested. That means a professional deep discharge test, not a domestic multimeter test which does not put enough load on the battery to give meaningful results.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=audi+a3+service+manual&ia=web

I don't know what a BCCC engine is so I can't help there. Heavy steering could be caused by low tyre pressures, wrong toe-in, non-standard wheels/suspension. Check those before trying to alter the power assistance. During acceleration the gear changes should very smooth, almost imperceptible, when changing up. When the car slows and the gearbox changes down it can cause a slight jolt at each change, particularly in the three lowest gears. That is something I have noticed with mine and which I believe is normal. DSG gearboxes were not as refined then as they are now. Don't neglect the gearbox oil changes. The oil is expensive but a lot cheaper than failure of the control unit (Mechatronic I believe it is called). Diesel engine oils become black very quickly. It took me a while to accept this as normal after years of petrol engines.

A fault on that sensor is consistent with the lack of prior symptoms, so let's hope that solves the problem. Do please let us know the outcome. Don't be be unduly concerned at the lack of computer diagnosis. Unfortunately code readers are not as reliable as many expect and hope.

Maxine. There are hundreds, possibly thousands, of faults that could prevent the engine from starting, so the chances of diagnosing the problem from the tiny amount of information you supplied the forum so far are negligible. I shall assume the RAC mechanic checked the obvious things like fuel level, fuel pump, relays, coils, EMC etc. Do you have a full service history for the car? What mileage has the car done? Has the car displayed any other unusual symptoms before it failed such as smoke, high oil consumption, low power, high fuel consumption, coolant loss? if you can answer those questions we might, and I stress might, be able to home in on the fault. For a quicker result I suggest you get it diagnosed at a specialist VAG garage or, failing that, an Audi dealer though I must admit I don't have a high opinion of them. Did the trader you bought it from guarantee it in any way? Was that trader commercial or private? Your legal rights depend very much on precisely what he guaranteed and for how long. Some guarantees only last three months and cover so little that they are not worth the paper they are printed on.

The cheap readers are notoriously unreliable. A better bet would be a professional diagnosis, though even they are not infallible. If that proves inconclusive we shall have to start from first principles and consider every symptom of the engine's behaviour. Do let us know the outcome.

What did you plug it in to? A professional code reader or a cheap one for home use?

So have I Steve. Classic or old cars which are in short supply will always find a buyer willing to restore them, but A3s are as common as muck and available all over the country at low prices. The example under discussion needs a new interior as well as a new exterior, and that's before the 180000 miles old running gear is even considered.

I hate to disillusion you, but given what you have said about the condition I can not imagine anybody being willing to invest the time and money in restoring a 23 year old wreck. No matter how much sentimental value it may have for you, it is time to accept that it is scrap and sell it for parts.

Does this thread give any clues? https://www.audiownersclub.com/forums/topic/19422-noise-from-front-left-wheel-above-50mph-gearboxwheel-bearingdrive-shaftbrake-disc/

I see it as very relevant to the thread so no apologies needed. It's always good to consider different views even if there is no concensus.

I would prefer terminal blocks if there is space because I am unconvinced by Keith's advocacy of twisted jonts. I have seen too many twisted joints fail on cars over the years. However in this particular instance I do not know if there is space for such a block. Either way some slack in the wire, or even better a loop as Keith suggests, would relieve the strain from repeated opening of the boot. I am not an electrician but mechanical locking of two wires together with screws or solder were the only acceptable methods of joining or terminating wires in all my years in industry. The same applies to domestic electrical installations from what I have seen, though spring loaded blade connectors like the Wago are becoming popular.

That's a good point about a soldered joint possibly breaking as it flexes, but wouldn't a twisted joint also become unravelled when flexed and vibrated despite being covered with heat shrink tubing? I have a deep distrust of twisted wire joints, and have always felt a soldered joint to be more durable.

Thanks Erik. It is good to read that the forum has provided a solution for you.

If I recall correctly the interior light switch has three positions: automatic, off, and manual. Are you sure you have the auto position selected?

I haven't the faintest idea. The cost will depend on which bush needs to be changed and whether you are going to do the job yourself or pay somebody to do it for you. The first task surely is to identify what precisely is wrong before making a decision on a solution. I suggest you get somebody to wriggle the steering wheel to and fro while you look and feel the bushes holding the steering column (I think there are two of them), then do the same to the steering linkage under the car including the rack mounting points. If the sound does not give away the location the vibration of a creaky joint sometimes will.

I don't recognise your description "belt driven simulator wheel", but a noise when turning the steering wheel could be one of the bushes supporting the column or one of the rubber bushes in the steering linkage.

I suspect it is simply jammed from being slightly twisted. If wriggling alternate sides does not work I can only suggest brute force,

That suggests the wheels have been changed for a non-standard size. I looked online for A3 tyre pressures and did not see your particular size mentioned.