cliffcoggin

WD40 may be fine for a temporary fix, but it isn't a good long term solution as the oils in it will dry up leaving a sticky residue.

Search for online car breakers. I bought a head rest for £30 including postage from one of them and it was an exact match to the existing rests.

Sorry Ed, I can not advise without information, and the only way I can get that information is if you provide specific answers to the questions I posed. The fact that the clutch is new does not eliminate it from the problem, because even new clutches can fail or be wrongly fitted or suffer hydraulic faults. Only once we are sure the clutch is fully functional should we consider other possible faults with the gearbox.

And the bite point?

Ed. My first suspect for all gear engagement problems is the clutch. Is the bite point at the top, middle, or bottom of the pedal travel? Does it grab smoothly or is it sudden? How many miles has the clutch done? Is the fluid level (assuming it is hydraulic) low?

Incompetent or not, the dealer is responsible for the warranty until it expires. Whether that means he has to do the work or only pay you for getting it done by somebody else under Australian law I have no idea, but if you don't complain now he will always have the excuse that the fault arose after the warranty ran out.

John. There is a Youtube channel by a John Cadogan that I regularly watch and by chance I happened on this video on DPFs. It may give you some hints on what is causing the frequent regenerations. Be warned, his language is satirical and often laden with expletives, but he is very knowledgeable. In essence DPF problems can be caused amongst other things by: -inlet air leaks, -faulty injectors, -insufficient sustained high speed operation, -the wrong oil. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-bOlDFFhuPM

Well m is the standard abbreviation of metres which makes more sense, but the text distinctly states kilometres. As for the rest of the report. I don't see that it tells you anything you didn't already know i.e. the engine is making lots of soot. What it does not tell you is why. It would be too much of a coincidence if the problem was unrelated to running on petrol, so you need to examine and possibly test the fuel system from pump to injectors. I doubt that the average home mechanic would have the equipment to do that as I fancy it would need flow testers and and injector measuring tools. In fact I wonder if even Audi main dealers would be able to do that, or whether they would simply renew parts in turn until the fault disappeared. I frankly don't know what to advise except to consult a diesel specialist.

Tony. No matter what the cause you should get the fault registered with Audi before the guarantee runs out. Even if Audi then prevaricate about fixing it they will not be able to deny that it occurred during the guarantee period. For what it's worth I favour the turbo as the culprit, an expensive repair job and not something you would want to pay for from your own pocket.

Perhaps I am misreading the data but it appears to show that the last regeneration was 556045 km. ago. Whether that is related to running on petrol or not I have no idea.

https://www.prestigeimports.net/audi-dashboard-warning-lights/

Do let us know the outcome.

John. You need to be aware that diesel fuel is the lubricant for the fuel pump and its absence can cause wear within the pump, because petrol has no lubricating properties. Furthermore petrol may have degraded seals at any point in the fuel system from the pump to the injectors. I am not saying these are definitely the causes of your problems, but they are distinct and very expensive possibilities.

Only one keyhole. What an odd arrangement. Was that how the car was made, or could it be another modification by the previous owner?

In that case the chances are that you have the wrong keys for the car, but one of the fobs has been re-programmed for remote operation as Gareth suggested.

Perhaps I did not make my question clear enough. Which door does the key fail to open? Driver's door? Passenger door? Boot? Or all three?

Davis. More details needed please. Q1. You said the keys won't open the door, Does that apply to just the driver's door, or to both doors and the boot? Q2 Have you renewed the battery in the second fob? Cliff.

Why not ask the seller as he clearly knows?

How much?

Stacey. I second what Gareth has told you. The most likely fault is either the slave cylinder or the master cylinder, depending on which one has not been changed. If that proves to be the case, then I question whether the clutch needed to be changed in the first place. A competent mechanic should be able to tell the difference between spongy hydraulics and a worn out clutch. If the clutch was old and near the end of its life then it was probably worthwhile as they don't last for ever, but I would object to paying out money for repairs before they become necessary because of a poor diagnosis. The trouble is that the life of a clutch is unpredictable because it depends very much on how it is used. A boy racer driving style, or riding the pedal at traffic lights, can ruin a clutch in 20000 miles; a sedate careful driver can get 5 times that distance. Do let us know the outcome.

Glad to hear the problem is, or might be, solved. Thanks also for the update. It's sometimes disheartening when respondents don't reply to suggestions, or even have the courtesy to thank those who have assisted.

I daresay if anybody had an idea he would have spoken up by now Stuart. Bear in mind there are precious few of us in this forum so it is no surprise there are no replies. See the recent history of the forum for proof. Personally I distrust any of the code reader results so I didn't even look at yours. If the problem can not be solved with a new fob battery my suggestion is to get a meter and start testing the relevant circuits.

Glen. Another possible cause of variable engine shaking is a weak fuel mixture, often caused by an air leak into the intake or turbo connections, but also possible from faulty injectors. A detailed examination by a competent mechanic should isolate the fault.

And slip a tenner into the box while you are at it.

Connor. Before buying any expensive, whether Audi or non-Audi, parts and trusting to luck that the problem will be solved, I would carry out some pressure tests to find where the problem really is. A compression test should reveal if there is an internal engine leak, though one or more low cylinder pressures could be the result of worn rings, defective valves, or damaged head gasket. A pressure test of the oil cooler with water at mains pressure together with a valve and a dial pressure gauge will reveal if it has a hole. Both tests can be done by the competent home mechanic with some ingenuity and cheap instruments.