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Everything posted by JonAudiFriendSmythe
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I have an AEB engine in my A4 B5, done some engine stuff and now the factory mounts keep failing and trying to throw the engine through the bonnet, not good so i am wondering if i can upgrade and if so what to look for within the UK or post to UK. Wondering if these will fit i fancy these but not sure if the S4 and A4 mounts are the same https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOLID-ENGINE-MOUNTS-fit-AUDI-S4-B6-RS4-B7-S4-B5/223194777229?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3Dbcce045170a74f389d055955cf8336ce%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D3%26rkt%3D8%26sd%3D223194777229%26itm%3D223194777229&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042
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a4 wont runn after fitting second hand clocks
JonAudiFriendSmythe replied to hanfordm's topic in Audi A4 (B5) Forum
put the old clocks bk in, see if it works, if it does, get the ecu coded, there is key, barrel and dials, all need to say the same code, i just sent mine off to get the need for a cade removed from the ecu so i can put anything i want on my ecu now. -
Bigger Turbo on A4 1.8T estate 2001
JonAudiFriendSmythe replied to GermanyWhip81's topic in Audi A4 (B5) Forum
inlet manifold, downpipe to cat, hosing to intercooler and a remap -
1995 A4 Immobiliser issue - Scrap?
JonAudiFriendSmythe replied to GraemeH80's topic in Audi A4 (B5) Forum
i sent my ECU off to a place that cleared the need for a code so the ECU will fit in any A4. So after replacing the broken dials the ecu immobilized the car because they all look for the same code, dials barrel etc. Cost around 250£- 5 replies
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- a4
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Check your front engine mount
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Front snub mount, i had the same issue, the font engine snub mount had failed and was moving around upon acceleration, it's a simply but lengthy job, you'll need to partially remove the from of the car, lights out etc, same aws you would for a cam belt change, then right at the front in a rubber with a cup, replace the rubber, fixed mine no problems. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1x-Audi-A4-B5-1-9-TDI-Quattro-Variant1-Genuine-Febi-Front-Engine-Mounting-Rubber/361625700361?fits=Model%3AA4&hash=item5432924809:g:X44AAOSw4A5Yp7Qb
- 7 replies
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- accelarate
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Brake lights stay on
JonAudiFriendSmythe replied to JonAudiFriendSmythe's topic in Audi A4 (B5) Forum
I figured it out, whilst drilling i must have vibrated the adjustment screw loose, wound that sucker bk in and all is golden, had to remove the lower dash though and dials. -
Hey people i am looking to buy a remapable chip for my AEB ECU 9D0 907 558 E, i have had 2 done but my hybrid turbo is gonna need another and the guy i usually go to has ran out of chips. Any suggests will be great TY. :)
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Earlier today i was trying to remove my worn out rubber pedal covers and as a result seem to have made it so the brake lights stay on all of the time, it's too hot right now to even think about removing covers under the dash to have a look at the assembly so i was wondering if anyone else had any idea how to check the switch for the brake and the process/es needed to do this? Ty in advance.
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Hi guys, i keep having the oil cooler on my AEB engine leak, 3 in the past 18 months so i wonder how possible a front mount would be and if anyone has done one and where to get the right one for my car which i an A4 B5 saloon 1.8T 150 (remapped to 200) with an AEB engine. TY in advance for any replies i might receive.
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I would go for it, make the car yours by adding your personal touches to it, like i did. Have since added Angle eyes, front mount intercooler, induction kit, delphi coil packs, mid box delete, magnaflow 200 sports cat, coilovers and a stage 2 remap, they said because of its age they didn't want to take the map to higher than 200bhp.
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Thanks mate.
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Oh a quick tip, i discovered that while renewing my rocker gasket i had some sludge built up in there too so i purchased an engine flush oil (5L drop out old oil put this in run on idle for 20 mins then drain and replace the oil filter). I tried to get the oil filter off from under the car... don't do that lol, i found it was much easier to just whip off the 2 water tanks right above then reach down.
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OK, some stuff done, head unit in, added 2 USB's from the HU to the spare switches on the center consul, debadged grille done, rear lights done, side smoked repeaters done, dials done and ICM wasn't firing enough juice at plug 4 so it started burbling, dropped in 4 new coil packs and repaired ICM now running sweet as a kernel. As you can see there is a difference with the dials, i found that because they were stick on dials over the top of the oem black ones that while in the daytime they were great, at night i could not see my speed, not good lol, i got a spare set of black dials and simply cut out the lights and left the numbers and everything else to shine through the white card. Don't look too bad if you ask me and what's more, i can see my speed now. video-1486893499.mp4
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TY, water pump and cam belt done too, next it's a stereo with a sub in the boot. Going in next, then white dials with chrome surrounds, change of lights too and a grille ooh it's all far too exciting.
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TY, water pump and cam belt done too, next it's a stereo with a sub in the boot.
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That's better !
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OK here goes, bought Vag Com and Vag Tacho including various softwares from Ebay, waste of money and time, sent the ECU to a place called http://www.ecutesting.com/ charged me 144£ inc VAT to have the need for a code removed from the ecu totally, now i can swap my dials, ignition barrel, whatever without the worry of tripping the immobilizer. Money i get the blue rocket back on the road and not a moment too soon, next thing is fit the new 18" alloys i just got, get the water pump and cam done and finally suspension all around.... can't wait.
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Yeah will do, atm it's tooooooo damned cold
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I have the exact same issue, after seeing loads of lines through my LCD on the cluster i decided to buy a secondhand one and not realising that the cluster is matched to the code stored in the ecu key and barrel etc swapped them over, at first it was ok then i dissconnected the cluster with the ignition still live and now it's immobilized, same as yours so what i've done is bought Vag Tacho to get the code number then Vag Com to match it up using cables, software and youtube. Note to all, before you change a cluster be sure it's fully functional (the secondhand one had worse lines than the original lol) that you have the tackles needed to make it right or you know a good locksmith/mechanic who has the right tools, ie cables and software. I intend to get mine up and running soon using the items i bought, i will let you know how i got on.
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Chesterfield New AudiFriend
JonAudiFriendSmythe replied to JonAudiFriendSmythe's topic in New Members Introductions
Thankyou kindly :) -
Hey, I'm Jon I just acquired my first l.8T A4 98 plate in Kingfisher blue and thought it would be wise to join this forum, you know, as you do.