Bigdave1230

It’s very common. There’s a green rubber seal that sits on the inner part of the pipe. You can buy it from Audi for about £10 and isn’t hard to swap just have a look at the pipe as you take it off as it has a seat that it needs to meet up to and give it a clean with a cloth before fitting the new seal and putting back together.

Car has now had all six injector seals replaced and a service with no problems reported. Work was done by Darkside Developments. Great service and very knowledgeable. Recommend to all

Drove the car the other day after my wife complained of an exhaust smell in the cabin when driving. Noticed a slight ticking noise from under the bonnet so upon investigation found one of the injector seals has gone resulting in a carbon sludge on the inner wing and exhaust manifold. Did some checking and the seals are sold separately at quite a cheap price. When changing it does also require a new injector bracket and bolt as the bolt is a stretch bolt and shouldn’t be reused. Unfortunately I’m so busy with some other bits going on for the min that I don’t have time to sort it myself, so it’s booked in at a garage to have all six seals replaced (if ones gone then logic would say the other five probably aren’t far behind it) and a service whilst it’s there. The seals and bolts are about £130 inc vat. I’ll post a couple of pics and a video incase anybody gets the same fault and wonders what it is. IMG_9185.mov

Probably a slight buckle in one of the wheels. Swap the front wheels with the rear wheels and see if it still does it.

Sorry I’m a bit unfamiliar with the obd code reader as I use vcds so not sure if it just reads codes or allows you to do measurement tests or not. But yeah the glow plug boots go very brittle and crack where the holder meets the plug and disintegrates when you pull them off. I had a problem with a previous Q7 where it through up a flashing glow plug light before dieing and not restarting so we changed the glow plug module (among many other things) but remember there were a few different types. Unfortunately this seems like one of those annoying faults that’s hard to diagnose and fix

Probably one of the led’s in the light cluster has/is failing and upsetting the canbus. Put the hazards on and check to see if one of the led’s is slightly dim or off.

It depends what engine you have. I think a 3.0 has 10 terminals and a 4.2 has 8 from memory and can be different on engine codes. What symptoms does the car have for you to make you think it’s faulty? Single glow plugs can fail and the holders can become brittle and crack making a poor connection but that’s the only common thing really with them.

To change the lights over to the newer led ones is fairly straight forward from memory but the cost can soon add up as there are quite a few parts needed that you might not realise. The headlight buckets are different and need to be changed otherwise the headlights don’t fit, if your car is an s line then it will have adaptive headlights and with the led headlights there are two types bi xenon and tri xenon. If you fit bi xenon then you will get an error message on the dash display to say adaptive headlight fault and the a flashing bulb symbol that will stay on all the time. You can remove it by coding the adaptive lights out using vcds but you need a fairly recent version and somebody that knows what they are doing to find it. You will also need to get headlight adapter harnesses as the original plugs aren’t the same (can’t remember if the plugs are the same but the pins are different or if something needs to be done for the led indicators lower down). The rear led lights need an adapter wiring harness and coding in vcds. Sorry there’s probably a few bits that I’ve missed but I and some friends did it to our cars years ago and can’t really remember. It’s not something that’s really done that much now as the pre facelift cars have dropped in value and the newer lights etc are still up at silly prices 2nd hand so 2 grand isn’t an unrealistic figure to buy all the bits needed.

From memory you don’t need to leave the sd card in so the sd card that’s already in might not be for your sat nav it might be music. You just put the sat nav sd card in and then press setup and it will have options in there to update/copy I think. I might of missed something as it’s been a few years since I did mine. Check Audi’s website as I think for some versions you could create an account and download the update for free to put onto a sd card. Not sure if they still do it but definitely worth having a look.

Depends what version mmi you have. If you have a six cd disc changer in the dashboard the it’s a 2g mmi so the sat nav drive is in the boot on the right hand side in the spare wheel well. In which case you just need to buy an upto date cd from eBay then eject the original disc from the drive in the boot and swap it. Try ejecting it before you buy though as some dealers used to lock the drive so it wouldn’t eject the disc in which case would need unlocking using vcds. If you have a single cd unit in the dash with 2 sd card slots and a sim then it’s a 3g mmi and you need a upto date sat nav sd card

Is the level control on the mmi greyed out for the other ride heights?

Yeah the Q7 has loads of codes for everything. 01577 turn off due to over temp is a common one for the pump as well as the level control system going on about lower/ upper limit exceeded etc and even a 01583 code for leak detected in system. There should be some codes stored that will be an indication of what it’s unhappy with.

If one of the bags has a slight leak then the pump has probably been working overtime for as long as the yellow light has been on but I would of expected there to be a code for the pump overheating. You should be able to jack the car up on the side that’s down when turning the car on to take some of the strain off the pump and get the bags filled. Then spray soapy water on the suspension bags and see if you see bubbles indicating a leak. I probably wouldn’t just start replacing parts without doing some checks. Have you had the car code checked since this has happened. Check none of the level control units haven’t popped out of the suspension arms as that can cause weird and wonderful things to happen as the car try’s to change other corners of the car to compensate.

The suspension issue you mention shouldn’t drain the battery overnight but I did have a similar issue on my previous Q7 which turned out to be the auxiliary heater. Wouldn’t drain it every night but maybe once a week. Only tracked it down as one morning when I went out to the car I could hear a small fan noise from the passenger wheel arch. A scan of vcds showed “auxiliary heater locked” it wouldn’t unlock and is quite common on older cars to fail as I’d noticed it didn’t work when I bought the car. Removed the auxiliary heater fuse from the passenger side of the dash board and it cured it. 🤔 it might have been the drivers side dash board but think it’s the passenger side.

Yes but the earths that corrode are accessible from under the car and aren’t the easiest to get to but yeah you can clean them up. Easiest thing to do is get a jump lead and put it from somewhere metal on the engine and the negative terminal under the bonnet on the passenger side and try starting the car to see if it makes a difference. If it turns over quicker then it looks like the earths are corroded.