Bigdave1230

My mate had his Q8 in at Audi about 4 weeks ago after it breaking down by refusing to go in gear. It’s done 12k and Audi told him the 48v battery was knackerd but saying it wasn’t covered by warranty and would cost £1800 to replace. He rang Milton Keynes Audi where he bought it from who said it should be covered and to get it sent to one of their branches. They sorted it for him and did a software update on the alternator. Apparently the alternators are overcharging the batteries and killing them making them not hold charge. They called it a smart alternator and should put more charge in as the battery gets older.

Is it coming up with any codes now? Is the car sat correctly or is the front or rear higher than usual? I had a similar issue that turned out to be a rear strut valve making the rear of the car stuck in lift mode. I’ve also had it where one of the front level control sensors had fallen out of the upper control arm making the car think it was lower than the lower limit.

There was a recall on some Q7’s due to a possibility of oil entering the brake servo through the vacuum line and damaging the servo. Might be worth ringing Audi and asking if your car was effected and if so had the work carried out. Affected cars between were 2012-2014

Oddly enough mine did it about a year ago. Pulled the fuse on the passenger side of the dashboard for the auxiliary heater and the fan noise stopped and the battery stopped draining. Mine would do it periodically and I only found it because one morning when I came out to it I could hear the fan noise coming from the passenger wheel arch. The auxiliary heaters on these are rubbish even starting the car on a cold morning with a low fuel level will cause them to lock out and you need vcds to unlock it! 😩 From memory the fuse is the only 20amp fuse on the top bank of the fuses

Sounds like a leak. If it was a level sensor it would probably stay down all the time even when running. If the bag isn’t leaking check around the top of the strut where it meets the top wishbone cradle too when your spraying as there is a rubber seal where they meet that can leak. It’s only £8 or something from Audi but you need to remove the strut to fit it. Failing that check the pipes on the compressor.

👍🏻 🙂

I used a company called ecutesting.com sent mine up to the with a description of what the car was doing and paid £255 for them to rebuild it. Unfortunately they did confirm my ecu was at fault but it was beyond repair and they didn’t have a refurbed replacement in at that point. So they refunded all the money and sent my faulty ecu back. I ended up buying a 2nd hand unit off eBay and through a mate of a mate getting it cloned to mine. I’d definitely recommend giving them a try. They were really helpful and have good reviews

Not all of them have it. It was an option from the factory I believe. Think it needed to have the extended telephone option . Mine is a 2008 with Bluetooth phone connectivity but no telephone in the armrest so no 30pin plug.

I think that’s what I’d put my money on too

When you say “mm I’d been fixed” what do you mean? Has a garage replaced something? If so all the components are coded to the car so if the coding is incorrect the car won’t recognise the modules and not function. It’s supposed to be so that stolen parts can’t used. For example if you replace the mmi screen in the dash for a 2nd hand one then it will lock the control head and stop the voice control and telephone working. Unfortunately if that is the case then as far as I’m aware only Audi can recode it as it has to plug into their computer and talk back to Germany.

A mate had something like that a few years ago on his. It got water in the boot from a fault on his sunroof and blew an amp or something 🤔 it might of been the sat nav. I can’t really remember but everything is daisy chained using optics and that’s why so many things went off on his. He’s moved to Australia now so can’t ask him really but I’m fairly sure that’s what Audi told him as they fixed it under warranty. They didn’t have it long either so I don’t think it was a big job. I’d check for water first then all the fuses. There’s some on the ends of the dashboard and also one in the rear luggage compartment. Ideally you could do with sticking it on vcds to try and narrow it down but without access to it I’d try the fuses etc before finding a garage.

Does it turn over and not start or not even turn over?

Does the rear screen washer work correctly? The pipe runs through the motor and leaks through the tail gate into the boot area if it’s not spaying onto the screen

Does it have a panaramic sunroof?

First thing I’d do is change the gearbox oil and filter. scan it using vcds too but a blocked filter might throw codes up for other components that aren’t working correctly due to poor circulation. It’s about £300-£400 but if I’m honest I’d be harassing the dealer to arrange sorting it or refunding. What millage has it done? How much service history does it have and is it specialists or Audi?

Does it display the N symbol on the dash when it does this or does it still display the correct gear and revs up without drive? If you move the gear stick over into tiptronic and use the paddles does it still do this? And the noise you mentioned is it a thud or grinding or metallic?

I had a similar problem that’s posted somewhere further back in the forum. It turned out to be the crankshaft sensor. When it was cold the car started fine and would run perfectly. Let it warm up then parked it and the car wouldn’t restart. It would just turn over and over. I had to leave it to cool down a bit before it would start. Vcds showed no faults. Very intermittent and really annoying. When you drive the car and turn it off the temp under the bonnet carry’s on rising as there’s no airflow. Sometimes mine would start after 10 mins others times 30 mins. No warning lights were ever displayed and once it was running it would perform perfectly until you turned it off.

The rear wiper washer runs through the motor. The seal goes and water gets into the motor making it start and stop on the screen. It’s a rubbish design really but a new replacement on eBay is £30. Tell tale sign is the rear washer jet has poor performance or doesn’t hit the screen at all. Water then runs down into the tailgate and leaks onto the catch at the bottom. Common problem. To take it off you need to remove the top plastic trim off where the boot hinges are then the 2 side trims then the main boot trim. It’s held on with t20 torx screws I think. Put some wd40 on the rear wiper arm after taking off the 13mm nut holding it on as the arms splines seize onto the motor and as it goes through the glass you can’t really give it too much force.

Driving along with no problems then when I pulled up outside a friends house and dropped something off the glow plug light started flashing. Thought I’d best not turn the car off as it might not start so drive it the mile or so home and turned it off. Left it a min then restarted it with no problems, car ran fine with no warning lights or flashing glow plug light. Then next day jumped in the car and went to set off but the car cut out. Started straight back up and idled fine, rev’d no problem. Set off and after about 500 yards the car cut out again, started back up and after about 200 yards cut out again. Started back up and turned around to get back home and cut out again but then would start back up with a misfire and cut out after a few seconds. Couldn’t get the car home so rang a mate who turned up with a snap on code reader which showed injector circuit A & B malfunction as well as injector 2 malfunction and injector 4 electrical fault. Tried unplugging the injectors one by one to try and get the car to run if it was a faulty injector that was preventing the car from running but it would only run for a few seconds then cut out. Recovered the car back home but by this point the car wouldn’t start at all. After various checks the fuel pressure seemed low at the fuel rail ( weak and bubbly ) and the car not showing any codes due to it not starting so replaced the fuel regulator on the drivers side ( the car has 1 on each side but a faulty regulator on the passenger side will still let the car run all be it badly) still wouldn’t even attempt to start. The car would just turn over and over. Removed the injectors and set them for testing which showed various faulty. Replaced all 6 injectors with new but the car still wouldn’t attempt to start. Removed the ECU and sent away for testing with a description of the fault the car was doing. The ECU testing showed it to be faulty but beyond repair. Bought a used replacement with the same numbers on a through a friend of a friend cloned the ecu to match mine. Plugged back into the car and it fired straight up no problems with no codes stored or warning lights. After speaking with an auto electrician he believes that either a faulty injector spiked the ecu or an ecu fault killed the injectors. Found loads of posts on forums with cars with the same fault but no answer to what the problem was. Hope this helps if anybody has or gets similar.

Had a go in a SQ7 the other day on 22” and drove well

I’ve got 22” On my 08 Q7..... never had a problem and never noticed a difference between mine and other Q7’s with 20” and 21” wheels I’ve been in and driven.

The mmi in that is a 2g basic. To upgrade it to a 2g high with the colour screen etc would require changing and adding so many components that it honestly wouldn’t be worthwhile doing as the problem with fitting second hand components is that most are coded to the original car and can sometimes have limited functionality when fitted. Easiest way to get you phone to play music and phone calls through the car is to buy a Bluetooth fm transmitter from Amazon. Costs about £12 and plugs into the cigarette lighter. Bluetooth your phone to that and tune your cars radio to the fm frequency that it gives off.

Yeah the genuine tool is a socket with 2 notches to slot in but I used a pair of small grips. Hard to get to if your not using a 2 post ramp.

Sorry for the late reply I didn’t see it. I don’t know the part number as I didn’t get them from Audi. I got them from aerosus.co.uk they are air suspension specialists and sell everything. I’ve not had a problem since. I would recommend putting a little thread sealer on before fitting just to be sure. Hope this helps if you’ve not already sorted it.

Sorry just seen your wording! I changed the crankshaft sensor not the camshaft sensor