Bigdave1230

Had a fault on my 2008 Q7 where the car cranks over for 2-3 seconds then stops cranking. Starter turns over fast when it does crank. Leave the car for 20 mins and it will crank and fire up no problem. Seems to happen when the car was warm but I can’t say it never did it when cold as I can’t remember if it did. Vcds shows no fault and when it’s running it doesn’t miss a beat. Very intermittent and very very very 🤬ing annoying............................... Replacing the crank shaft sensor seems to have cured it. Hope this helps anybody with a similar problem. 👍🏻

Probably a strut valve or a level sensor. Look at the front upper wishbone through the spokes of the alloy to see if the level sensor has popped out of the arm and making the car think it’s set low on that side hence why it’s raised itself up and now can’t understand what level it’s at. If you park the car on a slope and leave it does the front or rear of the car try to level itself slightly? If it does it’s probably a sticking valve located on the strut with the air pipe going into it. Measure the car on each corner from the centre of the wheel to the wheel arch and see if one side is higher than the other. The higher side is probably where to investigate but code checking it with vcds is always a good way to go. ( when measuring the heights the front will always measure a little lower than the rear but really you are looking for a difference across the axel).

I replaced my rear discs, pads and handbrake shoes about 2 months ago. The 2 bolts holding the calipers on are female multi spline bolts. Sorry I can’t tell you what size male tool you need but it’s quite big and has got more splines than a standard torx key and is unique to VAG. Honestly they are on that tight that if you don’t have that tool then don’t attempt it as you can’t get into it then with grips etc. My handbrake wasn’t very good so I bought handbrake shoes as I didn’t want to take the discs off to find I needed them. Turns out the shoe surface had broken away and was none existent (common problem because everybody just leaves them in park) so if your handbrake isn’t holding I’d recommend getting those too. Sorry I can’t say what size the tool is as I used a mates garage and used his tools 🛠 but google will probably tell you. Good luck

Cole can you post the error code you are getting to try and shed some light on what’s wrong with yours

I had the same problem with mine. Rear suspension stuck higher than the front. Replaced the valves in the rear struts. Cost about £22 each from kuftech I think 🤔. You can get the special tool to remove them which looks like a socket with a slot on either side but I used a small pair of grips which worked fine. Used some thread sealer on the new ones and the car has been perfect since. If the suspension is stuck up at the back or the front then you will get an error code for the compressor shutting down due to over temperature as the car will constantly try and lower and raise the working corners of the car to level the ride height but this doesn’t mean the compressor is knackered. My last Q7 had a worn compressor which I tried the Andy repair kit but didn’t make a real difference so bought a replacement off eBay for about £250 and worked perfectly. Only takes about 45 mins to swap and is located under the drivers side door area. You can use a trolley jack to take some weight off the car and see if the car starts to raise. If it does then the compressor ring is worn.

You have listed your car as 2011 s line so I’m guessing you have swapped LED headlights with LED headlights (led eye brows). There are actually 2 types of LED headlightS - bi xenon and tri xenon, tri xenon have self level adaptation built into them bi xenon don’t. All s lines I believe are tri xenon with the se models being bi xenon. If you have put bi xenon in then you might be getting this weird fault as a result. If you upgrade pre 2009 Q7’s to led headlights you get similar faults until you recode the car. You should be able to sort using vag com but check the originals against the new ones. They should say if they are bi or tri on them. Hope this helps!

Forgot to put a result to this post. It was a faulty release valve on the passenger rear suspension strut. Bought 2 replacements from knufftech I believe for about £20 each. Replaced both rear drivers and passenger sides and car works fine again.

Yes! There’s a post at the top of the q7 page labelled “Wipers”

I think that’s the battery control regulator

Not sure it should have one big multi pin connector on one side. It looks like it but I don’t think there’s an earth connection on the top

The fault code you have relates to the transmission control module 🤔 which I think is under the passenger seat in the battery area. I’d check all connections and wires there first to make sure you’ve not caught something whilst sorting the battery. It looks like a black module and isn’t very big. Without it connected the car doesn’t know it’s in park and goes into a kind of limp mode where it keeps the abs light on all the time. Check on eBay for a picture of what your looking for.

I towed a Electrition mates broken down Renault megane estate full of tools a few weeks ago and couldn’t tell he was there. I’ve a friend who tows his caravan with his and says it blows the socks off his old discovery 3 which felt gutless in comparison although the discovery was better off road

It’s in the car option on the green mmi screen but I’m fairly certain it needs to be a 3g mmi not a 2g mmi I’m afraid

I’ve heard of a fault on Audi diesels which can happen when you try to jump start them on a dead battery. There’s a relay that fails the tell tale sign is the glow plug light doesn’t come on when you put the ignition on. My mate told me about it ages ago but can’t remember where he said it was 🤔 I think he said it was somewhere by the steering column but I’m not sure. See if your light is coming on or not and if needed I’ll message him to find where it is.

Sounds like the auxiliary heater is on. They are renowned for going wrong normally locking up and stopping working not staying on though. 🤔 I think the fuse for it is in the passenger side end of the dashboard behind the end panel when you open the door. Try pulling it out and see if it stops. The heater is behind the wheel arch lining just in front of the passenger door

If you have a button in the back to lower the car for loading then it has air suspension. There was a post on here a few months ago with somebody who couldn’t get the ride height options on the mmi screen when pressing the car button. I think it was a faulty module but I’m not sure. Have a look back through the posts.

Do the electric seats still work? If they are heated does the light work on the dash board?

You need vcds to unlock the sat nav to get the disc out as they were locked from the factory to prevent the discs getting nicked out of hire vehicles etc but it was probably so you had to go to the main dealer for the newer discs. What does the sat nav say on the screen when you press the nav button?

Hi I managed to get an hour the other day to look into it a bit more and can confirm it appears the rear of the car is in off-road or lift mode and the front in comfort due to (I believe) a faulty level sensor. Using vcds the fault code 01400 suspension level control 001 upper limit exceeded intermittent freeze frame error code 66. Is in there. I tried going into adaptation to check what it thought the individual height levels were to pin it down to which corner was upsetting the system but it wouldn’t let me in saying something along the lines of error 22 test parameters not met 🤔 or something similar. Does anybody know another way to read what the car thinks the levels are using vcds? The current height of the car from the centre of the wheels to the wheel arch is front L = 445mm , front R = 445mm , Rear R = 500 mm , Rear L = 510. Cheers Dave.

does anybody know where the suspension level sensors are located. The rear of my car is stuck in a higher position than the front which is putting the orange suspension light on after driving for 5 mins or so. Ive not had time to investigate fully as I’m really busy for the min but think it’s going to be a sensor as the compressor is working.

The hose for the rear wash wipe connects to the rear wiper motor the squirts through it but the seal goes and ends up corroding the motor making it stop working. Tell tale sign is the water doesn’t squirt out or is very weak at firing onto the rear screen. Then the motor fails. Stupid idea in the first place really!

Hi I didn’t replace the earth but put another one on it from the earth point ( on the passenger side bulk head which is used for jump starting) to the inlet manifold

Mine did something similar earlier in the year. It was parked on the drive fine but levelled itself as it aims down slightly. When I reversed it off the drive the whole suspension dropped to the bump stops and the green and orange suspension light started flashing like crazy. It wouldn’t raise at all and the compressor kept cutting off due to overheating. I had the car on a ramp and checked everything to eliminate the problem and finally came to the conclusion that it was either the pump or the valve connector block that is situated just behind the compressor. I was 90% sure it was the valve but could only find a place in Germany that did them other than audi and couldn’t wait for one to be shipped over so booked the car in for a diagnostic at audi for £70. Then on the morning it was due to go in I got in the car and the suspension lights were on the dash to say it was trying to pump up then after 30 seconds the car was back to normal height and working fine again so cancelled the appointment. My mate thought it might of been moisture in the air lines and when the car tried to release pressure to level the car when coming off the drive had frozen the valve open ( it was a very cold morning). Have you tried jacking one front corner of the car up at a time when the compressor is on to see if it raises the other side. This should help diagnose a leaking airbag. If the other side raises up to normal height squirt soapy water around the bag and strut. You shouldn’t see and bubbling. The compressor and valve are located under the drivers floor behind a plastic cover and are only accessible from under the car. 🤔 oddly a few weeks ago my wife went to the supermarket and reversed onto a high kerb on a bit of a funny angle that made the car lower itself on all four corners to the bump stops on the way home. When she got back I looked at it and all the mmi selections were greyed out. Turned the car off and brought the shopping in and left it for ten mins and when I came back out to it it was back up again. It seemed to not be able to understand the difference in height on one wheel so reset itself to go again. Do you have any warning lights on the dash?

Dead easy mate. Put the clip on the arm with the hole in it, so the plastic is sandwiched between the clip the offer the arm back up. Then using a pair of grips squeeze back onto the metal ball

Or press the car button again